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Discussion Starter #1
IIRC, these cars run about two-three gallons of water in the cooling system. I have noticed that when it is cold out, the car heats up pretty quickly, but then, as I'm driving, cools down to barely warm. This implies to me that the thermostat eventually closes when the car is cold, but otherwise runs stuck open. So, for my fellow GTV6-owners-who-drive-in-cold-weather, what is the approximate normal water temperature operating range? BTW, the fans do kick on when the temp gets above about 175*F. Also, the air temps were about 35*F this morning, and the gauge was riding the 100-110*F area during most of the time the car was moving.
 

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Our GTV6 warms up quickly and the temp gauge stays steady with the needle about straight up/slightly to the right (I forget what temp that is).

It sounds like your T-stat is stuck open or opens wide then doesn't close back down to regulate the temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Our GTV6 warms up quickly and the temp gauge stays steady with the needle about straight up/slightly to the right (I forget what temp that is).

It sounds like your T-stat is stuck open or opens wide then doesn't close back down to regulate the temperature.
Glad to hear that my diagnosis is correct. So, on my Audis, if you didn't install the o-ring on the incorrect side of the t-stat, it wouldn't operate properly - and the correct orientation is opposite from what you'd predict. What is the correct assembly order of a new t-stat/o-ring (gasket)/housing in this 2.5 motor?

Edit:

I wrote this post before I saw that the housing and the t-stat are one unit for the V6. I see that there is a gasket, and I can also see that it's not a hard job, assuming everything is nice and warm. :) Maybe I'll order one, and test it in a pan of water before I go all crazy trying to put it in.
 

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Another data point - that t-stat must have just failed. I was getting good gas mileage before, and now it's dropped down to the 22mpg range. I guess I know what I need to do. :) I also need to replace the "donut" o-ring under the double-nut for the idle adjust. Does anyone have a good replacement so that the car isn't down for long? Thanks!
 

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For the idle O-ring I just took the old one with me to the hardware store and found one that appeared about the same size. The issue with them is they get hard with age. Then the adjustment doesn't adjust the ID by squeezing & unsqueezing the O-ring.
 

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For the idle O-ring I just took the old one with me to the hardware store and found one that appeared about the same size. The issue with them is they get hard with age. Then the adjustment doesn't adjust the ID by squeezing & unsqueezing the O-ring.
Yeah, sorting this car out to be a daily driver has sort of turned into a project. :)

I have read the bolts can be tricky, so I'm going to blast them good every day for a while with Kroil. And then lightly tap on their heads. Also, a good way to loosen stuck fasteners is to not try and loosen them first. First you tighten them. Not much, just a touch, then in the loose direction. Give them plenty of penetrating lube each time. You can even get rusty exhaust stuff loose this way.
 

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I run at about 175 in cold weather and it stays very stable, I do have a new thermostat and water pump. I am also in the New York area and its cold here. I had an issue with the engine running hot in summer, but it turned out to be something stupid, which I corrected. I would say even in the summer it would run slightly over 175, but not more than 190.
 
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