Check to make sure the long rod is still connected at both top and bottom. Also that there are no loose wires anywhere near the ignition coil.
Crank, Start, Die
I did something wrong, but I'm not sure what.
The Spider (78, Spica) was running fine, but I felt it was time to replace the main air filer. I wasn't sure how old the original was, but I've had the car for a year. I then checked the oil, and topped it up, I think, I always had trouble reading dip sticks.
Anyway, It came to start it for a bit of a run this afternoon. It cranked, started, but wouldn't run when the starter disengaged.
I checked to see if I accidentally loosened anything (Those filters are a pain to replace), but can't see anything.
Could I have overfilled the crankcase? Would that cause this to happen?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mo in NJ
Engineer by training, clueless as a mechanic.
The Spider (78, Spica) was running fine, but I felt it was time to replace the main air filer. I wasn't sure how old the original was, but I've had the car for a year. I then checked the oil, and topped it up, I think, I always had trouble reading dip sticks.
Anyway, It came to start it for a bit of a run this afternoon. It cranked, started, but wouldn't run when the starter disengaged.
I checked to see if I accidentally loosened anything (Those filters are a pain to replace), but can't see anything.
Could I have overfilled the crankcase? Would that cause this to happen?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mo in NJ
Engineer by training, clueless as a mechanic.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Anyway, It came to start it for a bit of a run this afternoon. It cranked, started, but wouldn't run when the starter disengaged.
There are two wires from the ignition switch that power the coil. One, I think it is green, provides 12 volts directly to the (+) terminal on the coil when the key is in the start position. The other wire, green/black, connects to the ballast resistor and provides power to the coil via the resistor in both key positions. If the engine dies when the key is released from the start position, it is possible the green/black wire is not connected to the ballast resistor.Also that there are no loose wires anywhere near the ignition coil.
ThanksThere are two wires from the ignition switch that power the coil. One, I think it is green, provides 12 volts directly to the (+) terminal on the coil when the key is in the start position. The other wire, green/black, connects to the ballast resistor and provides power to the coil via the resistor in both key positions. If the engine dies when the key is released from the start position, it is possible the green/black wire is not connected to the ballast resistor.
The Coil and Distributor were replaced with a 123ignition system, and it's a bit of a rats nest.
I'll give it a look.
Mo in NJ
Frustrated
I would check that you have 12V at the coil both during cranking and when the ignition switch goes back to the run position. Lots of possibilities here, check all your connections etc.
Andrew
Andrew
It also can be that your mixture is not right. If all's working, you energize the cold start solenoid while cranking, but it drops out as soon as you go back to run. So you have a much richer mixture, which your engine may need, while cranking but a leaner mixture when you go back to run. Try richening the fuel cutoff solenoid a half-turn maybe? It may be the actuator is not set right and/or other settings are not right, so this is just a diagnostic test to see if it makes a difference.
Andrew
Andrew
As we like to observe...
“If the engine quits while in flight, what was the last thing you touched?”
Is the 123 brand new, never operated?
“If the engine quits while in flight, what was the last thing you touched?”
Is the 123 brand new, never operated?
Try starting it without the air filter housing
Thanks all
The last 2 things I touched were the Air Filter Housing, and the Dipstick. I did try running without the air housing, and no dice.
I'm guessing that I must have knocked a wire loose at the coil, I'm going to try to walk my way around that rats nest. The installation by one of the POs was a bit messy.
I'll post results later.
Mo in NJ
I think I need new glasses.
The last 2 things I touched were the Air Filter Housing, and the Dipstick. I did try running without the air housing, and no dice.
I'm guessing that I must have knocked a wire loose at the coil, I'm going to try to walk my way around that rats nest. The installation by one of the POs was a bit messy.
I'll post results later.
Mo in NJ
I think I need new glasses.
Well,
It looks like I may have knocked the green wire off. However, I'm not sure which terminal it goes on on the coil.
Any hints before I attach it t he wrong one, and burn something out?
If you can see in the photo, The green wire has 2 terminal ends (one green, one more Aqua). Any reason why?
![1648287]()
It looks like I may have knocked the green wire off. However, I'm not sure which terminal it goes on on the coil.
Any hints before I attach it t he wrong one, and burn something out?
If you can see in the photo, The green wire has 2 terminal ends (one green, one more Aqua). Any reason why?
The wire with power from the ignition switch should be connected to the positive terminal on the coil. That should be the wire that is green with a black stripe. Might be the one you refer to as aqua.
Green went to the external ballast resistor, which you no longer have, and should be capped off. The green and black striped wire goes to the positive terminal of the coil....Good luck
That's a solenoid there, is the solenoid on the starter not working? That one is nonstandard. Also, the + terminals are pretty close to the body, which would make me nervous.
Andrew
Andrew
Well, that didn't work. (Positive is the 15, right?)
Of course, I should have checked if I had spark, and I do, according to the light I dug up and attached to my spark plug.
So, that isn't the problem. Fuel is next. I have meant to change the filters. I guess it's time now.
I am still worried that the overfill of oil could be a problem. Anyone have anything to say about that?
Thanks for all the help so far.
Mo in NJ
Of course, I should have checked if I had spark, and I do, according to the light I dug up and attached to my spark plug.
So, that isn't the problem. Fuel is next. I have meant to change the filters. I guess it's time now.
I am still worried that the overfill of oil could be a problem. Anyone have anything to say about that?
Thanks for all the help so far.
Mo in NJ
The motor started and ran fine on Friday. The only difference is a change of air filter and oil top up.That's a solenoid there, is the solenoid on the starter not working? That one is nonstandard. Also, the + terminals are pretty close to the body, which would make me nervous.
Andrew
As for the solenoid, it's from the PO. If I can't get it started, and send it to a pro. I'll see what they say about the solenoid as well.
Mo in NJ
I would worry about arcing, big time, would put some boots on there. A lot of amps go to the starter.
If the starter solenoid works you don't need a second one.
Andrew
If the starter solenoid works you don't need a second one.
Andrew
I may have under-thought this, so confirmation plz...
If one has removed the ballast resistor, shouldn’t BOTH the green-black and green go to the positive terminal on the coil? One to give power while cranking, the other to give power after start and release the key?
If one has removed the ballast resistor, shouldn’t BOTH the green-black and green go to the positive terminal on the coil? One to give power while cranking, the other to give power after start and release the key?
Hey Jim...It is possible you're correct. Electricity is still a weak point. But this is how I was guided to set up my 78 Spider by PAPAJAM when I decided to install a pertronix and a coil with an internal ballast. It works great. I wondered the same thing about the green and green/black wires. I only have 2 wires on the plus side of my coil. The green/black, and the positive lead coming from the dizzy. The other (hot) solid green is capped.If one has removed the ballast resistor, shouldn’t BOTH the green-black and green go to the positive terminal on the coil? One to give power while cranking, the other to give power after start and release the key?
Hey Jim, I found this old conversation with Papajam regarding a new coil with internal ballast and electronic ignitionIf one has removed the ballast resistor, shouldn’t BOTH the green-black and green go to the positive terminal on the coil? One to give power while cranking, the other to give power after start and release the key?
[IMG alt="papajam"]https://www.alfabb.com/d2/avatars/m/0/184.jpg?1573460727[/IMG]
papajam
Premium Member
Joined Feb 8, 2003
16,232 Posts
Hi Mauricio,
The first thing I would do is reverse the green and green/black wires. The green wire is energized only in the start position while the green/black wire is energized when the key is on and in the start position.
So, disconnect and tape off the green wire from the coil. Then connect the green/black wire to coil positive.
Cheers,
Jim
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
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