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Crank nut torque verify pls.

2779 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Joe Papa Sr
My shop manual for 87 spid says (pg 01-15) "crankshaft pulley nut, wet") spec is 137.9-143.8 ft/lbs. Does this mean oiled with some engine oil? Seems like a lot of force! Can some of you guys chime in on this and verify before I do this? Man, does the avg American male have this kind of strength? To pull 140 lbs?

Thanks.
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I did mine wet, with Loctite medium strength...lol, at 120ft/lbs, never came loose and the last time I had to remove it, came out without much of a struggle-remember, I've done this 3 times already.
You'd need to apply the 140 lbs to a one foot long lever (i.e. wrench). Most of us use a much longer lever ("breaker bar"). So 70 lbs applied to a 24" lever or ~90 lbs to an 18" lever would give you the 140ft/lbs. Can you manage that?
You'd need to apply the 140 lbs to a one foot long lever (i.e. wrench). Most of us use a much longer lever ("breaker bar"). So 70 lbs applied to a 24" lever or ~90 lbs to an 18" lever would give you the 140ft/lbs. Can you manage that?
This sounds like Physics 101. Are you sure that lbs of torque are calculated that way? It's been 26 yrs since Physics class, so I dont recall. But the 140" is for a 1Ft lever? I have a pipe making the distance from the actual socket about 3', so should I need to apply about 1/3 of the 140?

AND oil it?

Thanks, Eric (and other Physics Majors).
Yep. Oil the threads so that the force you are applying goes to tightening the nut, not overcoming friction.
Yep. Oil the threads so that the force you are applying goes to tightening the nut, not overcoming friction.
Oil and loctite do not mix and Alfa Recomends loctite on the crank nut.
Wait a minute, guys. Now first, the manual says OILED 140 ft lbs, not loctited 140 lbs. Maybe an alfa ENGINE manual says different? Cuz the shop manual has just some torque specs on that pg i mentioned above and suggesting oil.

Also, how do I get the pulley off (I got the nut off miraculously, used the wifes hair dryer!) Bang it? Hammer? Crow bar? Hair dryer again..LOL??
Wait a minute, guys. Now first, the manual says OILED 140 ft lbs, not loctited 140 lbs.
You are correct, now I'm confused on what I saw in car disc saying to use loctite on:confused::confused:
...saying to use loctite n:confused::confused:
Flywheel bolts.
Flywheel bolts.
I thought it had to do with something going onto the crank...:)
..joepapa..you no 'girlyman'?get big wrech pull hard..bolt will come off....i would help you but ,me pulled big mussels opening lid on pickle jar..:)
..joepapa..you no 'girlyman'?get big wrech pull hard..bolt will come off....i would help you but ,me pulled big mussels opening lid on pickle jar..:)
LOL. Thanks for the laugh!

Now, back to work: I posted that I got the crank nut off. But Now, I need to figure out how to get the PULLEY off. I searched the forum, and found how some had their pulleys just fall off! Mine is tight. Which kind of puller jaw should I buy? And will this crack my pulley?
Flywheel bolts.
Right.....flywheel (and intake manifold too!).

Now, Papajam, how do I pull of my pulley? Forget the loctite issue...lol....Its pulley time now
LOL. Thanks for the laugh!
Whew, that was funny!

Now, I need to figure out how to get the PULLEY off. I searched the forum, and found how some had their pulleys just fall off! Mine is tight. Which kind of puller jaw should I buy? And will this crack my pulley?
I'd be very leery about using any sort of puller. The pulley can easily be damaged by a strong pulling tool. It really should just slide off. Try gently prying behind the pulley - a little bit on one side and then a little bit on the opposite side trying to get it to move straight out and not get crooked (?sp). Look for the key that keeps the pulley aligned to the crank. Try tapping on the key to make sure it isn't causing the pulley to hang up.

When you do get the pulley off, inspect the hub - especially near the keyway - for cracks. the keyway causes a weak point where cracks can start.
Whew, that was funny!



I'd be very leery about using any sort of puller. The pulley can easily be damaged by a strong pulling tool. It really should just slide off. Try gently prying behind the pulley - a little bit on one side and then a little bit on the opposite side trying to get it to move straight out and not get crooked (?sp). Look for the key that keeps the pulley aligned to the crank. Try tapping on the key to make sure it isn't causing the pulley to hang up.

When you do get the pulley off, inspect the hub - especially near the keyway - for cracks. the keyway causes a weak point where cracks can start.
Thanks a million, Eric! This is a v good explanation, and now (tommorrow), I will try this out, knowing I dont need a special puller. Sleep well!
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