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Discussion Starter #22
With key in on and airflow meter flap moved, no power at the pump would indicate a power problem, guess it could be the switch in the airflow meter which could be jumpered but I would be very extremely cautious with that. If dead quiet around you, you should be able to hear the switch in the afm clicking as you open and close the flap.
Yeah there was no click at all. It was pretty quiet out at my storage unit, I'll try and clean it up with some electric cleaner and plug it back in and see if it does anything.
 

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On the airflow meter itself, since you have it with you. Looks like pin 36 and 39 are for the switch for the fuel pump. You could use an ohm meter to test the internal switch. Don't ever use an ohm meter to test the wiring of the injection harness back to the ECU, it will fry the ECU with the voltage from the meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So when I test with the flap closed my ohm. Meter says nothing at all and when the flap is open I'm getting about. . 10 -. 06
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So when I test with the flap closed my ohm. Meter says nothing at all and when the flap is open I'm getting about. . 10 -. 06
So I read my manual for my multimeter, and it said to check the resistance with just the two probs shorted and I'm getting the same reading(it's a harbor freight multimeter). So I think my meter is a little inaccurate and if I'm grt thing the same resistance from shorting the probes as I am when the flap is slightly open. that probably means the afm is fine?
 

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So I got the relay. Plugged it in and still a start and die. But I did look at the air flow Metter and I had my gf trun on the car whilst I depressed the flap. No fuel flow at all. Went under the car and tested the voltage at the pump whilst I had my gf depresse the flap, nada. Pretty sure that means bad air flow meter?
The air flow meter is a simple potentiometer. Carefully remove the black plastic cover (It’s glued on with a silicone-like cement) and see if the contact patch has continuity. Perhaps it is dirty, out of adjustment or the contacts are completely worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So a little update. With the flap depressed I got power 88y but no power from 86c. No power from 86c whilst depresing the flap or not. On my injection wiring diagram I can see where it goes but I can't identify what it actually goes too. Any help??
 

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I suggest you not buy anything else until more troubleshooting is done. Carefully unplug the airflow meter cable. Spray the connector and the internal plug with electronics contact cleaner, allow to flash off dry, then reconnect securely. Unplug the two connectors at your new combination relay, and carefully examine the terminals inside the plastic connectors. Are they still snapped in place, and fully engaging with the male connectors on the relays? Spray those connectors also with contact cleaner, and reconnect.

Go to the coolant temperature sensor at the front of the motor, on the thermostat housing. Carefully unplug the connector, spray both sides with contact cleaner and reconnect. Do the same with the cold start injector at the back of the intake plenum.

Follow these guys' advice on checking for presence of voltage, cleaning of fuse clips, and replace any aluminum fuses with new brass or copper fuses. You cannot trust the visual appearance of the aluminum fuses.
 

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So a little update. With the flap depressed I got power 88y but no power from 86c. No power from 86c whilst depresing the flap or not. On my injection wiring diagram I can see where it goes but I can't identify what it actually goes too. Any help??
88y red wire and 86c grey/green wire both go back to the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I suggest you not buy anything else until more troubleshooting is done. Carefully unplug the airflow meter cable. Spray the connector and the internal plug with electronics contact cleaner, allow to flash off dry, then reconnect securely. Unplug the two connectors at your new combination relay, and carefully examine the terminals inside the plastic connectors. Are they still snapped in place, and fully engaging with the male connectors on the relays? Spray those connectors also with contact cleaner, and reconnect.

Go to the coolant temperature sensor at the front of the motor, on the thermostat housing. Carefully unplug the connector, spray both sides with contact cleaner and reconnect. Do the same with the cold start injector at the back of the intake plenum.

Follow these guys' advice on checking for presence of voltage, cleaning of fuse clips, and replace any aluminum fuses with new brass or copper fuses. You cannot trust the visual appearance of the aluminum fuses.
I did clean the contacts on the afm, and the connecting harness. The cold start injector connector is clean. I'll clean the temp sensor. Connector the next time. Does anyone remember which number the fuse is that's goes to 86c?
 
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