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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I found a new engine bay light on ebay to replace the one I had that had a broken reflector, but it was corroded and rusted worse than my original one.

It was so bad that there was no continuity between where the metal sections are riveted together. This was a problem on my original one that I fixed with solder. Now that I got my "new" one, I wanted to fix it correctly, so I tried CLR. I put 1 part CLR to 3 parts of water in a glass and dropped my old one in for 1/2 an hour. (I removed the solder as I wanted to see if the CLR would penetrate between the metal parts on the old one and also that the CLR would not harm the plastic, so the old one was the test pilot.) It worked and now the old one works without the solder between the metal joints.

Now I'm soaking the "new" one. Here's a picture of the original one after the CLR treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I checked the warning on the bottle first and it also said to keep it away from plastic laminate, so that is why I did my original one first that had the broken shroud.
It survived with no damage or marring of the plastic so in went the "new" one for a bath as well.

Hard to say how to prevent these parts from rusting. The metal is spring steel, which takes a lot of time to rust anyway, but now that the pits are there I'm sure it will rust again. We'll see with time.

Yes, I would definitely keep the CLR away from your paint or anything that you would worry about losing.
 

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I used Lysol toilet bowl cleaner several years ago to clean the contacts on the fusebox from my '74 Spider. Post-treatment it looked like new, and it still does.
 

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My guess is, that if you coat the metal bits ( with the exception of the connection point ) with POR 15, it oughtta stay corrosion free for quite some time....
 
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