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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I am looking to raise the front of my Alfetta GTV (as it has been lowered in the past).

Can anyone tell me what the correct measurement should be ? This way I can calculate how many turns the torsion bar needs to be adjusted.

Thanks :)
 

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I adjusted mine this weekend and brought the stance more level. This YouTube video shows the method I used.
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It's much easier than counting splines. Take care and make sure you carefully release the pressure in the bars before you disconnect too much. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi there ,

Thanks for the video.. Would you be able to let me know what the final ride height should be ?
 

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Vin,

I'm not sure but mine was way too high in the front (bumper height standard on US cars). I measured where it should be to sit relatively even at the rocker front to back and dropped it 1 1/2 inch measured at the end of the lower A arm to the top of the wheel well opening. You should be able to do the same but in the opposite direction.

Hampton
 

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To add to my post above...measure the distance from the top of the tires to the wheelwells. Then jack up the front of the car until you are where you want to be and measure again. That should be the approximate amount you will need to add to your total measurement per the video. The exact distance will be obtained from the a arm to the wheelwell opening.
 

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The U.S. ride height was not the correct ride height. It was adjusted for the sake of meeting the then new Federally mandated minimum bumper height, which was a full inch and a half over what was standard in Europe.
It resulted in very poor handling. Please think twice before voluntarily deminishing the cars handling prowess.
 

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I agree with AlfaJam. Unless the car was lowered beyond the Euro specs and you have some clearance or camber issues you should leave it alone. I only lowered my US spec car to bring it back to the proper (Euro) level.

Hampton
 

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That's what we did with our Alfettas as well, lowering the fronts to the European level rather than stay at the bureaucrat mandated US DOT headlight height. Much better looking of course. No jacked up look for us. At the same time we reduced the caster just a little to lighten up the steering effort. Our 78 sedan had almost impossible steering at first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Guys,

My GTV is definitely lower than standard. I know this because of the camber on the front wheels is offset.

I have a friend whose GTV is standard.. I can ask him to measure it up for me.
 

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Hi Guys,

My GTV is definitely lower than standard. I know this because of the camber on the front wheels is offset.

I have a friend whose GTV is standard.. I can ask him to measure it up for me.
It'd be useful if you defined for us what you mean by "standard". If you mean the factory setting, then as has been stated, you'll likely want to go with the European setting. If you just want to raise it up a bit to correct the camber or give it more clearance, or just change the look of the stance, that may be a different setting.

You don't say whether you're going to do it yourself or farm it out. I've changed mine twice now. I read a lot of methods for doing it, but they'll all seemed to be very complicated, especially the counting way. So, I've worked out my own way of doing it that I find very easy (I'm inherently lazy). Worked perfectly both times.
 

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without starting a war, can someone please explain - in very simple terms - why they are also removing the bar from its rear mount? I've done these and always simply taken the lower control arm off. Rotated it one spline or two and reattached it to the torsion bar. As long as the bar is unloaded, this way simply reloads it the same based on the cars weight and the alter orientation of the arm to the bar lowers or raises the chassis. TIA ciao jc
 

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without starting a war, can someone please explain - in very simple terms - why they are also removing the bar from its rear mount? I've done these and always simply taken the lower control arm off. Rotated it one spline or two and reattached it to the torsion bar. As long as the bar is unloaded, this way simply reloads it the same based on the cars weight and the alter orientation of the arm to the bar lowers or raises the chassis. TIA ciao jc
because of the different spline counts on the front and rear ends of the bar, you have much finer control over the final ride height by adjusting both ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It'd be useful if you defined for us what you mean by "standard". If you mean the factory setting, then as has been stated, you'll likely want to go with the European setting. If you just want to raise it up a bit to correct the camber or give it more clearance, or just change the look of the stance, that may be a different setting.

You don't say whether you're going to do it yourself or farm it out. I've changed mine twice now. I read a lot of methods for doing it, but they'll all seemed to be very complicated, especially the counting way. So, I've worked out my own way of doing it that I find very easy (I'm inherently lazy). Worked perfectly both times.
Hi There,

Car is euro spec. A friend of mine who's a part-time mechanic will be giving me a hand. I have the haynes manual which instructs how to tackle this job, but unfortunately doesn't including the actual height.

If any one has the euro-spec front ride height would be great :)
 

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I hope this helps

From an old Alfetta repair book I had. I hope this helps in some way. I don't have the book in front of me but it does cover the 78 and it is a euro repair manual. My take on this is that there is no spec in mm from the ground per se but, a certain load placed throughout the car then taking a measurement from there. The variance appears to me to be 10mm irregardless of used bars or new bars. ciao jc
 

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final page

page 6 ciao jc
 

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