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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After searching through many posts I have found a number of incorrect posts about how to properly wire the in tank fuel pump. Since it is a D.C. motor, it is critical to identify the positive pump connection so the motor will rotate in the proper direction.
Looking down at the pump with the outlet at 12 o'clock, the connector stud at 3 o'clock is the positive connection. Hidden in the recess of the plastic base of the outlet nipple, with a magnifying glass, you can just see a small '+' symbol (at least on the pump I purchased at International Auto Parts).

For the hard to find stepped fuel hose adapter, there is actually is simple solution. Obtain a very short length of 3/8" (inside) submersible (Gates) fuel hose. About 6" will do. Heat up enough water in a pot to immerse a least 1 1/2" into the very hot water. Hold the hose end in the very hot water about 1 minute and then immediately begin firm pushing the soften hose end over the sending unit's inlet nipple. It will very snugly go over and fit. Let it rest to cool before proceeding with anything else. I found the optimum hose length to be about 3/4" long. This solution absolutely works like a charm.
 

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For the hard to find stepped fuel, there is actually is simple solution. Obtain a very short length of 3/8" (inside) fuel hose. About 6" will do. Heat up enough water in a pot to immerse a least 1 1/2" into the very hot water. Hold the hose end in the very hot water about 1 minute and then immediately begin firm pushing the soften hose end over the sending unit's inlet nipple. It will very snugly go over and fit. Let it rest to cool before proceeding with anything else. This solution absolutely works like a charm.
I've used this technique for a couple of years now. A couple of things to be aware of:

First, the fuel hose has to be "fuel submersible." Regular fuel hose is designed to handle fuel on the inside only, so if it is submersed in fuel, the outer part will turn to jelly is a very short time. You can readily find fuel-submersible hose, but it is more expensive.

Second, over time, you may find that the hose will split from being stretched over the sending unit. Just something to be aware of if the problem recurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The difference between the sending unit nipple and the pump nipple is only barely 1/16"" difference in diameter. That is far too little to cause any 'splitting' problem.

I used Gates brand submersible fuel line. That additional info was added to my post.

/regards
 

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The difference between the sending unit nipple and the pump nipple is only barely 1/16"" difference in diameter. That is far too little to cause any 'splitting' problem.

I used Gates brand submersible fuel line. That additional info was added to my post.
Just sharing my experiences. I hope that neither you nor anyone else has any problem with the hose splitting over time, but mine didn't split immediately upon installation either. Below is a photo of the hose I have used:

 

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Skytop- Just sayin', but unless and until you can be SURE that the "submersible" hose you sourced is indeed guaranteed for constant, long-term total immersion in gasoline, you may be wasting your efforts. In my experience the average parts counter guy has no clue about true "submersible" fuel hose.
The actual "stepped" o.e.m. Alfa part is definitely a different animal, and priced accordingly.:surprise: It is not to be confused with ordinary fuel line. This issue has come up many times before to the dismay of some.
A good rule of thumb is that if you paid at or near normal price for cut, bulk 3/8" fuel line, you ain't got the real item.
The last time I tried to source this part in the U.S, John Norman's Alfa Parts in Berekley, CA was the only source. Other vendors may have it by now. If you have found a source for this hose in bulk then please share your info. with us.
I'm not suggesting you can't fashion a workaround with regular hose, but you risk becoming very adept at pulling the sender/pump assy.', perhaps after being towed home.
 

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NLA?

Is the stepped hose that connects the fuel pump and the sender housing available from our trusty sources? I too have "carefully" modified conventional gas hose. I did not know conventional hose will degrade from the outside in.
 

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Is the stepped hose that connects the fuel pump and the sender housing available from our trusty sources? I too have "carefully" modified conventional gas hose. I did not know conventional hose will degrade from the outside in.


IAP lists it.
Alfa Romeo, Fiat and Lancia Fuel Injection Components - Bosch Fuel Injection Components
When I bought one a couple years ago to have on hand, the only place I found one was here. I took advantage of the shipping and ordered a few for other Spider owners in the area.
OKP Parts and Engineering GmbH
 

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new in-tank pump not running during tests

Thank you for the extra information. I have that same IAP pump and could not figure out the polarity. I have everything back together with a new fuel level sending unit. I have tested both new parts before sealing them in the cleaned and freshly coated tank. The level sender is working, which is great. The pump is getting about 11V at the terminals, but form what I can tell it isn't spinning. Do I have a bad pump, have it wired backwards even with the help on this forum, or is there some clever float or something that stops the pump from running unless submerged?

I'm ready to get my '87 Spider back on the road!

Thanks,
Bill
 

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As far as I know there is nothing clever to stop it spinning. When I was having problems with mine I connected it briefly to a 12v source on the bench and it span OK. I wouldn't run one dry for more than a second or two, though, as I guess they need lube from the fuel?

The problem I had was, ironically, after I fitted a new filter to stop it getting blocked. In fitting it a little bit of rubber (off the gasket or maybe contamination in the filter, I don't know) got into the impeller and stopped it spinning.
I pulled it out and all good again.

Perhaps take yours out and make sure the impeller is free to turn.

The other thing is the sock filter needs to be oriented at right angles to the length of the car, otherwise it will foul on the baffles in the tank and could then press on the impeller.
 

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I have bench tested the pump by connecting it directly to a 12/13V power supply. It spins. I will reconnect and try again. Perhaps 11V just isn't quite enough.
 
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