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Discussion Starter #1
Just playing with rehanging my doors. ( I know, I know, I should have left them alone...)

What I would like to know is the order and number of spacers and plates for the hinges. The parts manual is non-descipt.

Here are a few spares to demonstrate the possibilities, including some thick ones.
 

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*L*




Sorry :) first time I laughed out loud today -ta
 

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Not it. You want me to look at the edge and see if I can figure this out? Not taking it apart lest I end up with a pile like yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That pile is from my parts car. Not expecting anyone to disassemble theirs. Yes, just see if you can see if there is one or two spacers/ plates between the hinge and the body etc.
 

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Hmmm those from a bolted plate car? My 65 is like early TI's with welded/pinned hinges. B
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Bruce, yes these are from a later Super, so yes yours will be different.
 

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From my memory those thick ones are support plates inside A-pillar. Usually there is one or two "friction" plates between pillar and hinge and various number of "quick adjust" shims.
Adjusting doors is quite slow process, set front doors first and try to find smooth side line between front fender and door. Rear doors are easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jorma, that makes sense. All my friction plates are in and I was guessing the plates that allow you to slide them in behind the bolts were for adjustment. I will play with a few of these to get my doors back in line.
 

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Super front (and Rear Door) hing plates

Guys, from memory of assembling these doors several times.

The hinges mount with their threaded studs passing through the square (ish) holes in the pillar. The top hinge has two studs and the bottom one three studs.

The perforated friction plates are put onto the the studs from inside the cab through the cavities into the pillar.

The thick plates go over the friction plates.

spring washers go on next followed by the nuts.

It is a huge help if you go to the trouble of making a "shelf" of thin ply wood reinforced with wood strips that will slide in under the door and rest just on the edge of the sill return where the door seal rubber closes on the top of the sill. The wood strip should be well supported from the floor and be clean and smooth enough that it does not scratch the paint off the bottom of the door panel. For it to work you need the car on stands.

The alternative is a strong, faithful and patient slave who can hold the heavy door in position with a gap all the way around. The longer the heavier!

Put the door in place by sliding it into a closed position sitting on the plywood shelf and engage the door latch to hold the back to the body. Have someone hold the front of the door closed against the body or it may slip when you try to put the nuts on.

Get into the car through the other side and fit the plates and nuts and tighten them enough to grip the hinges.

Check the gaps and alignment to figure which spaces you need to use.

The spacers obviously go between the hing and the outside of the pillar.

Every time you fit one you have to loosen the relative hinge nuts inside the pillar.

It is PITA kind of fun

You need to fit them for the bottom hinge alignment then the top hinge alignment.

The spacers will effect the pressure of the seals especially for the window frame and the top edge of the window frame etc.

Just take it slowly and think about each step.
 
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