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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '85 Spider that I'm trying to get running. I have no spark. I have the parcel shelf off and with a fully charged new battery AND a jump start to boost it I can feel both relays click. I don't know if one is so strong it makes it feel like they're both clicking, but it sure feels like they're both operating.
I looked a lot of "no spark" "no start" posts and I'd like to get a replacement Drive Relay. I checked Centerline International and could only find one. Is this the correct one, or is there a better source for the relay?

FROM CENTERLINE SITE:
Part #FI195
Fuel Pump Injector Relay
Fuel Pump and Injector Relay Spider 1982-89

Relay used for both fuel pump and to fire the fuel injectors on Spider with L-Jetronic fuel injection 1982-89.

2 relays used per car, sold individually.

$89.00

The car turns over fast enough to get oil pressure up and I am getting gas but no spark from the coil wire that goes to the distributor.I'm also going to check the flywheel sensors. Based on the tests I've done I think my coil is OK.
Thanks
 

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The Motronic ignition system is independent of the L-Jetronic fuel injection system, of which the main and drive relays are a part, so the relays would not be the cause of a no spark condition. The first thing I would check for no spark are the flywheel sensors and their connections. Specific L-Jet and ignition tests can be found here.

As an FYI, the FI195 relay pictured on Centerline's website is the DRIVE relay. This taller relay is also known as the Fuelpump relay or the Tachymetric relay. There is only ONE of these relays fitted per car.
The other relay by the fuel ECU is the MAIN relay. This shorter relay powers the fuel injectors and a couple of pins on the ECU. This relay is a Sipea 0440 12V that has two #87 outputs. This identical relay is also used for the horns, power windows and rear window demister.

Hi, Eric.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I tested the sensors. On the black one I got 959 ohms. The grey one is OPEN. I'll get back under the car to look at the sensors. I was under there bleeding the clutch and the sensors looked lined up and connected OK. Of course that means nothing about the internals. One more concern is the boot on the black connector that goes to the harness side. The boot is split and the black wire is frayed but connected. I think I'll split the boot open and try to solder the black braided wire. Then I'll have to seal up the boot. I might as well order a new distributor cap, rotor and plug wires. The car hasn't been on the road/started in about 15 years. Now the search for the grey sensor. Thanks again for the advice.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I tested the sensors. On the black one I got 959 ohms. The grey one is OPEN. I'll get back under the car to look at the sensors. I was under there bleeding the clutch and the sensors looked lined up and connected OK. Of course that means nothing about the internals. One more concern is the boot on the black connector that goes to the harness side. The boot is split and the black wire is frayed but connected. I think I'll split the boot open and try to solder the black braided wire. Then I'll have to seal up the boot. I might as well order a new distributor cap, rotor and plug wires. The car hasn't been on the road/started in about 15 years. Now the search for the grey sensor. Thanks again for the advice.
If you go shopping for a new flywheel sensor, you will find them much cheaper if you search for the BMW part rather than the Alfa part. They are identical, as BMW also used the Bosch L-Jet system back in the 1980s. Search for "Bosch 0261210001". They are readily available.

You can get the BMW part number for about $52. Centerline wants $129 for the same part.
 

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Now the search for the grey sensor.
Note that the two flywheel sensors are identical. But they do need to be connected to the wire harness correctly (thus the black & gray connectors). Also, the mounting block is not included with a new sensor so don't toss that in the trash!

And Rich's advice is good - the only difference with a sensor from a different model car might be the length of the wire attached. But I haven't read about any with wires that were too short.

You can get the BMW part number for about $52. Centerline wants $129 for the same part.
 

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And Rich's advice is good - the only difference with a sensor from a different model car might be the length of the wire attached. But I haven't read about any with wires that were too short.
Eric is correct that I didn't verify that the length of the wire was the same, but the BMW part is plenty long enough. I have two of those on my car now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the great advice. I have a new sensor on the way from RockAuto, $48.79 + shipping. It's a Bosch and looks like a match. I'm hoping that I install it and the Spider fires up for the first time in 15 years. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I should have stuck with Chevy muscle cars!!!!! I got the new timing sensor, cleaned everything up and got it installed. I now have spark right to the plugs!!!! Still won't start. The battery was fully charged, but after I tried starting it for a while I used the truck to try it with jumper cables. It turns over fast enough to get oil pressure but still won't start. I pretty sure I'm getting gas and the relays in the back sound like they're working. If I have spark it's got to be a fuel issue. Oh well tomorrow's another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. I'll try cleaning the plugs or get new ones. After replacing the gray sensor and it wouldn't start I only pulled the #4 plug and the spark looked pretty good. Doesn't mean they're good though. I know they're at least 15 years old and I've tried starting the car at least 25-30 times. I have fuel into the rail and at the return line. No gas in the regulator vac line. Tomorrow when the battery is all charged up I'll try the plugs and have my son crank it over while I look to see if the fuel shoots out of the hose going to the rail. Thanks again for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Spider hasn't been on the road/started in approx. 15 years. I drained 4 gallons of ancient gas out of the tank and replaced the fuel filter. I'm wondering if the gas that's being used to try and start the car is still old gas that's left in the line from the tank to the rail. Plan is for new plugs tomorrow. I also have a new distributor cap and rotor. I want to do one thing at a time to see what really is the culprit.
 

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The first thing I would check for no spark are the flywheel sensors and their connections. Specific L-Jet and ignition tests can be found here.
In addition to checking the sensors with the ohm meter (as outlined in the link above), remove them and check for physical damage to the sensor. A few years ago I helped a guy with a no-start condition. The sensors tested OK but when we removed them for inspection one had a dent in the end that faces the flywheel. We replaced it with a used but known-good sensor and the engine started right up!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took the supply line off the fuel rail and connected a hose to it. Cranked the engine over a couple of times and pumped over a pint of fuel out. I bought NGK BPR7ES plugs, made sure the gap was .030, put anti-seize on them and torqued them to 20 ft lbs. Still won't start. Pulled the #4 plug and it's bone dry. I had spark to the old plugs after changing the Timing Sensor. So I have fuel to the rail, but no fuel to the cylinders. I'm open for suggestions. Thanks
 

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Clogged injectors? Sitting for a long time with gas in the tank may have caused a lot of crud to form that got sucked up into the fuel lines and stuck in the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
sloboy89 your reply was timely. I just read "welder" in the Shop Manual and couldn't believe it. I'll keep reading and hope for the best. Also they show the picture of the fuel rail all out in the open and easy to get to BUT it's really under the Plenum and you need Munchkin hands to do the work.
 

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sloboy89 your reply was timely. I just read "welder" in the Shop Manual and couldn't believe it. I'll keep reading and hope for the best. Also they show the picture of the fuel rail all out in the open and easy to get to BUT it's really under the Plenum and you need Munchkin hands to do the work.
As much as it sucks, I find it better to remove the plenum first to tackle the fuel rail and injectors.
 
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