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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a little query as to what may or may not be a problem.

It's the depths of winter here down under (all of 15 degrees C :rolleyes:) but I climbed into the 164 today after the Wife has been using it for a few weeks while I bed-in the new engine in the 33.

Heater - Not heating. A vague waft of lukewarm at the best. Yes, the steppers are working. Under the hood, both the heater pipes in & out feel hot to touch, as does the top radiator hose after the car has idled a while. Coolant reservoir feels cold pretty much all the time. If going on a 15 minute trip or more, the temp stays at about 90C on the dash, and i've noticed my olio pressure drops off considerably at idle (i'm using fresh 10W-60 oil FWIW)

I drained the coolant, chemically flushed it & refilled with water/corrosion inhibitor to no avail. Thermostat is only 3-4 months old at best (but I think it's ok anyway). No scale/rust or debris came out of engine during flushing, radiator seemed clear too.

I'm not losing any coolant that i'm aware of (oil, now THAT's a different story :D )

Given this info, would you say:
water pump impellor failed? (this is my pick)
heater core blocked?
something else i've overlooked?

Thanks all :eek:
 

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I would check your thermostat first. The heater core is alway circulating, so its hoses should be hot. Are you sure the blend door is moving to send the hot air into the HAVC system? Your stepper motors make be OK, but if the cable breaks or the arm breaks on the blend door it does not matter.
 

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The temp your running at seems to be just fine in my book, in fact pretty good. at 90˚C (194˚F), mines runs about the same.

As far as heat you may have a broken blend door or possibly the or the cable lost the speed clip and has slipped off.

Does the air through vents change with fan speed? If you turn on the A/C does it get cold?

I think you have a door problem.
As far as the oil pressure, may try drilling a hole in the top or replacing the sender unit. Very common problem. Might want to run 10W-40 (factory spec) though as 60W maybe to heavy for oil pump and motor, may also be the reason the sender is not reading correctly.

Jason
 

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10W-60 is too heavy, IMHO. 10W-40 is the factory spec (I use this year round) and it is common to have the gauge show almost no oil pressure at idle on these cars, so don't worry about that, too much. I second (or third), the trap door theory, remove the flexy plastic cover over the A/C components behind the false firewall, and see if the trap door rod on the rhs (from the drivers seat) of the air distribution box moves or not, when you change from hot to cold and vice versa.
Charles
 

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Do you not need heavier oil above 40'C. How hot is the desert? Would you care if the heater worked or not? My aircon is broken and I only need it a few times a year, so I never fixed it. Sorry not realy the spirit of things!
 

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There was a thread a year or two ago about Alfa in Europe recommending using a 10w-60 weight oil in the v-6. Don't know if that is still true. Of course it's pretty rare here in the States.

I've used Castrol 20w-50 in the v-6's as long as I've had them, and now use 15w-50 Mobil 1 in the LS.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I used 10W-60 as it's what my most local Alfa repairer recommended, given the use & the 375k on the engine. How hot is the "desert"? Mid-summer anything up to 48C on the wall thermometer. Over that I just think the heat stroke is messing with my head :p

Oil pressure sender was done at the same time the 'stat was and yes, I have the hole in it.

I'll be honest & say I didn't think about the speed clip - I'll check that out. I could see the motor working properly with the glovebox open (the joys of RHD cars - You don't have to pull the dash to get the stepers :D )

I was just concerned that the engine may have been quietly overheating, and with summer bearing down shortly, now is the time to look at it.
 

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In my European 24v manual it recommends 10w-40 oil for road use and 10w-60 synthetic for racing. Guess if your engine has 375k (miles? -Jesus, that's great!) on it and you live in a really hot place then 10w-60 can't be bad; as long as you don't end up blowing out a lot of seals. On the other hand, what does an air temperature of 48 mean to oil in an engine running at 90+....?

Good luck with sorting the heater out.

Richard
 

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The 10w is for cold end of spectrum not 60. The 60 is for hot end so no worry in cold weather. I run 20w50 year round as we have mild weather hardly ever gets to freezing in winter. I would run 10w60 if it was readily available around here.

As for heater not working if hoses get hot and engine temp normal range then temp stepper motor, cable or lever not working in perfect harmony if temp with rice and fall on a/c panel. Does car have a/c or just heater system?
 

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Alfa owners manual ('95) claims the oil pressure when warm should be a minimum of 7 lbs. That may look like 0 on the gauge. See if moves slightly when you shut of the car. If it does, you're probably okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another trait nonted tonight. If the car is run (heater on) for a while to warm up, then is parked for say 5 minutes & then started, the heater blows hot for about a minute, then quickly cools off. Running blower faster cools it faster.

Heater flap checked out, working ok.

Car has air/c, but it isn't gassed at the present.
 

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Another trait nonted tonight. If the car is run (heater on) for a while to warm up, then is parked for say 5 minutes & then started, the heater blows hot for about a minute, then quickly cools off. Running blower faster cools it faster.

Heater flap checked out, working ok.

Car has air/c, but it isn't gassed at the present.
Sounds like if engine temperature is normal and air doors in blower motor housing opening and closing properly you have a restricted water flow from left rear head, through heater hose to heater core, through heater core, out of heater core through hose back to return coolant pipe on sub frame behind radiator (you do have early configuration like this if early model).

Do you have any modification to heater hose system with a shut off valve installed?
 

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No shut off valves.

I guess it's time to start pullng hoses & findng out which one is clogged?

Also, if thermostat is not fully closing off and opens to early heater will never get very hot but with 90C engine temp it should be heating pretty good.

Do you know if you have a stainless steel poppet in thermostat or a neoprene seat poppet? Stainless steel type never worked well or lasted very long.
 

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It's pretty common for someone to bypass the heater core since this system doesn't have a factory installed shutoff valve and heater cores commonly spring a leak with high mileage, but I'm sure you checked for that kind of a mod already?
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Behr thermostat - I can't recall exactly, but I think a neoprene seal.
Ordering a new one anyway - has to come off to do the water pump...

Heater isn't bypassed.
 

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All the Behr thermostats I have seen as replacement units are SS not neoprene. The Neoprene equipped units seem to only come from Alfa in the OEM orange box. I wonder who is really making those thermostats for Alfa?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
RESULT:

The heater core was blocked. Got in it again with the hose & blew out a good couple of solid chunks which look to have come adrift recently from whoknowswhere. Forward & back flushed everything several times to be sure & added a nice fresh mix of descalant to be on the safe side.

Car now runs back at 80C on the dash & has enough heat from the vents to singe the hair off your arms :D

Thankyou for the help everyone :D
 

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All the Behr thermostats I have seen as replacement units are SS not neoprene. The Neoprene equipped units seem to only come from Alfa in the OEM orange box. I wonder who is really making those thermostats for Alfa?
I got a spare neoprene one in non Alfa box recently from Difatta but don't remember manufacturer. I will try to remember to check who it was.
 

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I am back with overheating problem that I recently being noticing on my Q. Its (more or less) due for an oil change but I am not sure if that would get rid of heating problem. Until last couple of weeks, the temps always used to stay one mark below 195 mark and barely touched 195 even in heavy stop and go traffic. But from last two weeks, 'm noticing it racing to 195 even in freeway stop and go traffic and from then it goes higher to the next mark from 195 and jumps there.

And there is that oil burning smell as soon as I stop and go slow after certain time of driving. I am sure this is becos of the leak at the oil pump that the previous owner has mentioned (and I can see from the wheel well that it is missing one bolt). Can I just tighten those bolts or should I have to remove the pump and install new gasket and then tighten all those bolts?? To be honest, I feel comfortable driving my svx in heavy stop and go traffic.

Why me always with these overheating problems :confused:....!!!

-Pavan.
 
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