Combustion chamber repair?

Please post an image. My, guess, do nothing.

Are you planning on having the head re-surfaced?

That "dent" looks like it's really close to the water jacket.

Hmm, not the greatest detail but, from what I see, I would carefully remove the bits that are standing proud of the surface and then go ahead with the usual pre-rebuild checks including pressure testing, etc.

@andylarry , no concern about the thinning of the wall between the combustion chamber and water jacket?

Dress the sharp edge away as it can promote detonation due to a hot spot. Thats it then try it out. Dont weld.

Head is full height and not looking to skim but raise the CR with new pistons.
Will dress as best I can before pressure/crack testing.
Welding not just inadvisable but a known no-no?

There is an ABB member in the US who has repaired many damaged aluminum heads but the cost is only justified if they are rare or have already had expensive modifications.

Send it to Jim Steck, BB member. 1600 heads are worthy of repair.

Unfortunately the wrong side of the atlantic to take advantage of his skillset. May see if a local specialist welder has any insight.

Good machine shops weld and reshape these all the time, if needed. That said, you don't want to do it if it isn't needed. Norman Racing in Berkeley, and I'm sure others, will repair valve, piston, foreign object damage, corrosion, cracks. The weld doesn't break off.
A friend in Coventry just had his ice-cracked Giulietta block welded up, great job and didn't leak. I can ask who he used, being on your side o' the pond.
Andrew

I believe that a head that has been welded must be straightened post repair. No idea how difficult that is.

England has many amazing engineering shops that specialise in vintage cars. If you decide to fix it, they will be able to do it.

But, I think you are turning a mole hill into Everest. Clean up the high spots as andylarry said, CC the combustion chambers and move on
Pete

Would tend to agree Pete.
Sadly I have one of those personalities which knowing its there will fixate on it a a flaw!
May just enquire about cost a such a small job and bundle as part of the rest of the head work.

This thread may make you more comfortable about just cleaning it up

Indeed... Puts my 'issue' in perspective.

Thanks!

Depending on the state of material ageing and hardness welding make things go soft. If this is adjacent to the fire ring then it can sink into the head. The infamous k series head suffered because 105c plus was enough to soften these heads and blocks come to that which were hardened. Result liner sinkage and fire ring sinkage . I doubt the 105 engine was that sophisticated, well it wasnt.

If you really want to do more then once its deburred peen the material with a cut off nail which will put the material into compression and prevent crack propagation then leave it alone.
The good thing about a thinned wall to the jacket is the thermal stress in the material goes down not up so provided it can still take the pressure stress its better to be thin. There you go your justification for leaving it alone.

Any ex aircraft engineers on here like me will be familiar with the concept.
If you still insist on going further then I have heard good things about the head shop in warrington

Ouch! I hate when that happens!