cold start injector
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1,961 Posts
CSI injector coil is "fired" by 12V supply. The current draw is set by the design resistance of the coil. Remember Ohm's Law V=IXR
Therefore I= V/R R is fixed, V is 12v
Let me (us) know what you are trying to do so we can be more helpful.
TTFN Elio
Therefore I= V/R R is fixed, V is 12v
Let me (us) know what you are trying to do so we can be more helpful.
TTFN Elio
trying to fix so I can refix it
My ignition switch started acting up a while back..rather than buy a new switch I installed a push button starter..which works fine ...the start position on the ignition switch is redundant at this point.
So, the cold start injector is functional
but will not spray hooked to the wiring harness, so I thought if i wire it directly to the start position wiring on the ignition switch, I could fire it during cold starts using the key in the start position.. after it warms up it will start in the on position..
My aux air valve has also been replaced with a choke set up...
I would rather do these operations manually... and if there is a problem in the future I understand the mechanics and can fix them easily
My ignition switch started acting up a while back..rather than buy a new switch I installed a push button starter..which works fine ...the start position on the ignition switch is redundant at this point.
So, the cold start injector is functional
but will not spray hooked to the wiring harness, so I thought if i wire it directly to the start position wiring on the ignition switch, I could fire it during cold starts using the key in the start position.. after it warms up it will start in the on position..
My aux air valve has also been replaced with a choke set up...
I would rather do these operations manually... and if there is a problem in the future I understand the mechanics and can fix them easily
Joined
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13,741 Posts
Where did you tap in your button(s) in relation to the ignition switch?
If you went for the junction where switch plugs into harness, then everything is still connected and should work as intended.
ie: run will allow it to run, pushing the button engages the start circut which also deals with the CSI (if the thermo time switch is functional and still cold enough to allow the CSI to spray and its the 1st try at starting and the starter hasn't been cranking for around +10 seconds) and the fuel pump bypass circut that allows the pumps to run during cranking.
IOW, if you tapped in under the dash where the factory switch plugs into the factory harness, then everything 'should' still work just fine unless you did something wrong or there is an actual failing in the cold start injectors circut or its associated sensors/devices.
Having to hold the key in the start position (or trying to arrange it so) in an effort to get the CSI to work is not the way to bypass the switch (which you say was faulty, so why even revert to it as part of the new system to begin with?) and will just give one more place for a potential failure of the circut while you're buttoning and holding and stuff to try and fire the engine.
A correct bypass of the factory ignition switch would take the switch out of the system entirely and replaces it with 2 switches: one toggle for 'run' and one hold~to~activate type for 'start'. Anything else and you're still partially relying on an already dubious switch to get the job done that it couldn't do by itself to begin with.
After switch conversion, the only thing the factory ignition switch should ever do again is lock the steering column and/or fill the hole that would otherwise look like hell if it weren't filled regardless of the lock post being functional or removed from the switch cylinder assembly.
'Course that's just my take on it and anyone can do whatever they like to thier car regardless.
EDIT:
Dammit Jim!
LOL
If you went for the junction where switch plugs into harness, then everything is still connected and should work as intended.
ie: run will allow it to run, pushing the button engages the start circut which also deals with the CSI (if the thermo time switch is functional and still cold enough to allow the CSI to spray and its the 1st try at starting and the starter hasn't been cranking for around +10 seconds) and the fuel pump bypass circut that allows the pumps to run during cranking.
IOW, if you tapped in under the dash where the factory switch plugs into the factory harness, then everything 'should' still work just fine unless you did something wrong or there is an actual failing in the cold start injectors circut or its associated sensors/devices.
Having to hold the key in the start position (or trying to arrange it so) in an effort to get the CSI to work is not the way to bypass the switch (which you say was faulty, so why even revert to it as part of the new system to begin with?) and will just give one more place for a potential failure of the circut while you're buttoning and holding and stuff to try and fire the engine.
A correct bypass of the factory ignition switch would take the switch out of the system entirely and replaces it with 2 switches: one toggle for 'run' and one hold~to~activate type for 'start'. Anything else and you're still partially relying on an already dubious switch to get the job done that it couldn't do by itself to begin with.
After switch conversion, the only thing the factory ignition switch should ever do again is lock the steering column and/or fill the hole that would otherwise look like hell if it weren't filled regardless of the lock post being functional or removed from the switch cylinder assembly.
'Course that's just my take on it and anyone can do whatever they like to thier car regardless.
EDIT:
Dammit Jim!
LOL
It upsets me that everything in the system...AAv, TTS, etc..costs 100 dollars to replace when I can eliminate them and do the function myself... this way I understand whats going on and can troubleshoot and fix problems with a test light..I want to make things simpler...My original question should have been ...If I run a 12v wire from the start position on the ignition to the csi an inline fuse should be what amp. of the fuse....
Hal
Hal
Hal,
With your CSI disconnected from car wiring harness, measure the resistance across the CSI terminals. The resistance will lead to exactly how much current the circuit draws.
Example:
if the resisitance across the CSI terminal (there is a small coil in the CSI) is 1,000 ohms,
your current draw is 12volts divided by 1000ohms, which equals .012 amps.
I just got done replacing my CSI and for the life of me cannot remember what I measured!
With your CSI disconnected from car wiring harness, measure the resistance across the CSI terminals. The resistance will lead to exactly how much current the circuit draws.
Example:
if the resisitance across the CSI terminal (there is a small coil in the CSI) is 1,000 ohms,
your current draw is 12volts divided by 1000ohms, which equals .012 amps.
I just got done replacing my CSI and for the life of me cannot remember what I measured!
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16,232 Posts
This wire already exists as part of the cars harness. Unless a continuity or voltage test shows that the wire is broken, there's no reason to run a new wire. This is the reason I asked my previous question; how is the pushbutton output wired.
A fuse rating is based on wire gauge, not device load and is designed to protect the wire, not the device. If you use an 8 amp fuse, do not use a wire thinner than 18ga.
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