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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some help from the electrical gurus for my just overhauled 1983 alfa gtv6 ..everything is good and car is running well except the cold start now doesn't work. .it works on the car when I use another battery and apply 12 Volts..sprayed a fine mist of fuel ...but on its own connector it can't seem to work . There is the 12 Volts from the connector .., I swap a TTS to try but doesn t work too .I check the cam cover for the earth wires which there were 2 and tight too ..i have even replaced the CTS just to test the circuit but it seems the car is difficult to start since the CSI don't spew out fuel ..before the engine work the car works fine ..even though my AAV is not working . I always use the fast idle lever to warm up until find a new AAV or mod one . Could the engine work affect the engine so much that now with a spoilt AAV my car is hard to start ..thia difficulty in starting is only early in the morning ..thereafter the whole day it starts fine . It will start just that throttle is woolly and sounds like lack of fuel and coughing ...but after 3 or 4 trues it always starts . Help !...
 

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The cold start circuit is a simple circuit and can be easily tested with a multimeter, for those who don't know the cold start circuit works autonomously from the rest of the injectors.
The system consists of two components the blue CS injector and the brown TTS or Thermo Time Switch on the thermostat housing, this switch works via time and temperature as the name suggests when the ignition is on the TTS switch sends a signal to the CS injector for around 8 to 30 seconds and only at a temperature less than 30C, the connector on the TTS has two wires a solid blue and a green/gray these wires go directly to the CS injector the green gray then goes to #86 on the duel relay and them finally to #4 on the ECU.
Hi Strokers if a circuit test fails to show any issues you could always power the cold start circuit directly, I had used a simple on/off switch to power the cold start injector
when my car had a no start issue a few years ago .

Cheers Glen
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Glen
Thanks for the reply

That's what I configure yesterday with just a simple on off switch ..I noticed the car won't start with the thermo time sensor disconnected ..can I know how long you switch on the switch on early mornings. I've been reading about 8 seconds below 35c but it seems a little long for me. .my AAV is also not working since I bought the car and finding one is a nightmare .
 

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I would swith it 1 or 2 times in sync with the ignition as you know to much of the cold start will flood the engine.
And yes the TTS's are very hard to find or are hundreds of $ + postage.
 

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This link is to another BB thread about the TTS
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok I've check the wires and using a test pen there is signal everywhere from the tts, relay #86, the connector to the cold start wire. Before I go into the ECU number 4 wire Im asking whether there's anymore sensors to consider which affect the cold start .I'm a newbie with ohms testing and have yet to learn. Trying to find a short cut .
 

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Don’t do ohms from the engine harness into the ecu.... Good chance that would fry your ecu. Make sure the plug is disconnected from the ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok sportiva , I will check the TTS with the ohms reading as based on the earlier article you sent. Will see whether I can sort out this issue. I still can't get hold of the Bosch combi relay to try out .I'm sure the ECU is ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ok guys been reading a fair bit and came across this article on centreline webpage ..is this checking of the cold start injector valid ..I did check for voltage on the connectors but I remember only one pin has voltage upon cranking , the other none. But the advice is to replace the CSI doesn't seem to make sense .

As I said it did spray fuel when I connected it directly to 12 volts
Font Slope Terrestrial plant Screenshot Number
 

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Hi there, Sportiva is more the expert on this stuff than I am so if he says something different then do that.

In the post below there is a link to a fiat manual but Ljet is the same, same parts, same connectors. I have found the fiat manual sometimes more helpful than the Greg Gordon one in instances like this when I find that the work is jumping around. In the fiat pdf have a look at pages 12-13. Step 6 is thermotime switch tests, step 7 is cold start injector.

 

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Info on the Cold Start System (basically the Cold Start Injector & the ThermoTime Switch) is in the L-jetronic Spider Diagnosis page - Step 3. Link is in my signature (you may need to first click the down arrow in the lower right to see the whole signature).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Info on the Cold Start System (basically the Cold Start Injector & the ThermoTime Switch) is in the L-jetronic Spider Diagnosis page - Step 3. Link is in my signature (you may need to first click the down arrow in the lower right to see the whole signature).
Sorry I don't really understand what you mentioned about link in your signature and click to see some files on the cold start injector .would you be kind enough to explain .
 

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Do you have a small ground strap that goes from the intake plenum to the valve cover on the driver's side? The intake plenum is insulated from the rest of the engine because of the rubber intake runner boots, so a ground strap is needed for the cold start injector and throttle switch. If it's not there, you can easily buy or make one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Do you have a small ground strap that goes from the intake plenum to the valve cover on the driver's side? The intake plenum is insulated from the rest of the engine because of the rubber intake runner boots, so a ground
Do you have a small ground strap that goes from the intake plenum to the valve cover on the driver's side? The intake plenum is insulated from the rest of the engine because of the rubber intake runner boots, so a ground strap is needed for the cold start injector and throttle switch. If it's not there, you can easily buy or make one.
is needed for the cold start injector and throttle switch. If it's not there, you can easily buy or make one.
I do have this strap ..it's on the left side of the car as my car is RHD. I'm now temporarily using an on/off switch to activate the cold start as I haven't figured out how why it's not firing ..as I've said the signal is all there and everything works extremely well once I get started for the day . I did ask about the both connector pins needing a voltage which mine shows only one having a voltage but so far there is no reply ..maybe there is an error in the instructions from centerlinea.
 

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I do have this strap ..it's on the left side of the car as my car is RHD. I'm now temporarily using an on/off switch to activate the cold start as I haven't figured out how why it's not firing ..as I've said the signal is all there and everything works extremely well once I get started for the day . I did ask about the both connector pins needing a voltage which mine shows only one having a voltage but so far there is no reply ..maybe there is an error in the instructions from centerlinea.
If everything in the circuit is functional and the engine is cold, one of the cold start injector connector terminals should have battery voltage when the key is turned to the "start" position, and the other terminal should always be connected to battery ground (make sure this is the case).

If this happens, then the injector should fire. Maybe the injector IS working and there is something else amiss?
 
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