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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 1990 spider, and drove it the 2.5hrs from Portland to Seattle with no problems. This morning I had the clutch in and suddenly realized I had little to no clutch control, causing a few stalls. After taking off and driving away the clutch goes back to normal. I do double clutch. What could be the cause? Slave cylinder?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Usual stuff, I'd think. Low fluid. Leaking hydraulics. Failing clutch pedal pivot shaft.

I assume you checked the reservoir?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, found a slow leak at the clutch Master. Reservoir is full. Ordered a hose, Master and Slave since I'm sure they all need to be changed. Guess my drive was a bit much for some of the Hydraulics.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I guess my wife ordered the master cylinder,only, so I guess I'll just replace that. Any special intructions to replacing the clutch master? Never done one before
 

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Hope it's not the pivot arm....it would be a pain to replace the master then go back for the pivot. My PO replaced the master (a couple of months before I got my Grad) which then had the pivot fail, after I shifted about 30 times. Check the slave to see if it's leaking. Mine was so I replaced it and the connecting rubber hose. Good Luck, If you replace the slave, position the bled valve, UP!!! Bleed well!
Paul
89 Grad
 

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What does the clutch and brake fluid look like? Dip a white paper towel in the res's and see if it's dark. Old brake fluid will take away performance. When you buy a new to you car like this, you should replace the brake and clutch fluid, and the transmission and rear end also. Try that before doing the work! Top-tip: Redline trans fluid transforms your transmission shifting :) Look up type to use, using the search...

If you are going to do the clutch master, it's not so bad. It's held on to it's mount by two bolts with nuts on the back; the bottom one isn't easy to deal with; have patience. Be careful with the hard lines; if you cross thread them, they won't go into the new clutch master, and you will have to learn how to use a brake line flaring tool. New lines that need to be trimmed can be had at Autozone with the proper fittings, if this happens. Except for the hardline to hose fitting under the car; that needs to be re-used.

Keep us posted, and post some pictures of your new ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Great! Got my order today, and the slave, master and hose were in there. Going to check fluid in a few. What do u mean by keeping the bleeder valve up? Is this before or after I mount it back on the car?
 

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OK..it's party time!!!!
Place the slave with the bleed valve furthest from the ground...air rises..so if the valve is down. there will always be an "air bubble" in the slave.
Just breathe..watch the bubbles go up!!!
LOL
Good luck
Paul
89 Grad
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Clutch fluid is dirty and muddy. Should I replace the Slave and hose although, they look fine?
New-to-me car with a blown master and nasty fluid? Yeah, I'd do it. Best to do it all at once.

Old fluid in the clutch system won't affect clutch performance: it can't boil like brake fluid does. The moisture the fluid absorbs over time can promote rusting in the system, however, so it's smart to replace the fluid on the same 2-year schedule as the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay Cool! I'm free after 11am tomorrow so I'll take care of it at my friends house, since I've enlisted him for both moral, and leg pumping support! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mission Complete! Took us two hours, doing things with a nice and easy mentality. All is well. Brake fluid on the brake side looks dark, so I used a turkey baster, and syphoned most of what was in the reservoir, and used the last of my brake fluid to add fresh stuff. We're going to bleed the brakes tomorrow. Thanks for the help!
 
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