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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
The other problem that can get you is if you measure you'll see that the MC likely slopes slightly up to the front of the car (and it definitely slopes up when you've got the front jacked up to do a bleed). Thus you can get a bubble of air in the front top of the cylinder that is difficult to get out.

What I do is bleed the clutch normally first at the slave. Then I lower the front, jack up the rear of the car really high, and jiggle the clutch pedal for a while. This moves the bubble to the rear of the MC where it can escape into the reservoir...you'll likely see some tiny bubbles when you do this.
That seems easy enough to try. Tomorrow morning I'll try this, adjust the pedal up a tad (its currently level with the brake pedal so I think I can get away with raising it an inch or so, and change out the trans fluid. I need to change out the trans fluid anyways as part of the trans break in. Hopefully some of this will help, if not I can deal with a slow second gear until I have time to pull the tranny for another rebuild, I've dealt with it for 7 years already, whats a couple more 馃榿
 

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heres my tip for clutch system bleeding. Bleed it with the slave cylinder OUT of the bellhousing mount, with the piston facing the floor, and the bleed screw facing the ceiling - angle it so that the bleed screw is the very topmost (where the air will naturally go). Use a C-clamp or simply hold with your thumb, and push the piston of the slave in pretty far, and then bleed the system. When the air is out, close it up, and install the slave into the bell house. Just remember that the slave piston might want to move out some, dont let it push all the way out -- you can hold with your finger quite easily.

Having the slave with the bleed UP, already in the bellhouse, can trap air, depending on how the motor /trans is tilted.
 

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If the clutch throw out fork is not seated properly on the ball. You can get this problem. If the hold on clip is installed upside down it will hold the fork in the wrong place.

Also don't worry about the measurement of the clutch master rod. Just make the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
If the clutch throw out fork is not seated properly on the ball. You can get this problem. If the hold on clip is installed upside down it will hold the fork in the wrong place.

Also don't worry about the measurement of the clutch master rod. Just make the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal.
Is there a way to flip the clip without pulling the transmission? and more importantly whats the correct orientation so that I can check before pulling anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
So today I adjusted the clutch master rod a tad bit more and then bled the clutch as both Gubi and Goats described and now it is drastically better. Second still grinds a tad if you go to fast but now it feels like a normal alfa gearbox with the 2nd gear synchro being worn.

I still feel as if something is wrong as that synchro is brand new, but maybe that one was a tad defective or i've worn it down by driving it while trying to get this clutch thing back to working properly...

I'll keep trying making small adjustments to see if I can find the magic remedy but I am happy with the improvement. Hope has not been lost quite yet!
 

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Don鈥檛 change gears fast. Problem solved
 
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I was also told to look out for clutch drag from a bad disc not giving full disengagement this will show in reverse before other gears
My rebuilt gearbox would occasionaly grind in reverse, . I since learnt that there is no reverse syncro so you have to wait 4 seconds odd with foot on clutch before engaging reverse and sometimes touch another forward gear before engaging reverse. This is totally normal on these boxes.
I adjusted the engagement to high to give as much travel as possible and flushed out fluid-, along with above technique all is good.
 

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For the reverse I always goes in 3rd then in to reverse. This stops the trans rotation and thus it shifts into reverse easier. Pressure plate weakens and then the disengagement goes down. Good luck
 

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this gearbox design is over 50 years old... without not much updates.. expecting the gearbox, should shift like a modern gearbox, is not the best idea..when i was using the oem gearbox in my spider,, i did not 'quick shift ' it just a ease into the gear.. after i changed the gearbox to my w/c t5 gearbox. a modern design i had no troubles shifting into gears fast..........but even then i still dont jam my 'new ' box into reverse gear. even thuo the reverse gear has a syncro on it... i let the box go to idle, then shift it into reverse...... how do feel at 50 years? sames as 20?? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I wouldn't call what I'm doing right now a quick shift more so as a normal speed shift. It's much better after some of the things discussed in this thread but I'm still "babying" it into second and asking politely if it wants to engage the gear rather than simply putting it in gear. I expect it from these gear boxes as all the ones that weren't freshly rebuilt suffer from this, but I've driven rebuilt ones that don't do this, ideally I'll like to figure out why my rebuilt one still does grind...
Not that it's undrivable or unenjoyable (before the clutch fix it was) but there's something not quite right and I would eventually like to find out what
 

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I wouldn't call what I'm doing right now a quick shift more so as a normal speed shift. It's much better after some of the things discussed in this thread but I'm still "babying" it into second and asking politely if it wants to engage the gear rather than simply putting it in gear. I expect it from these gear boxes as all the ones that weren't freshly rebuilt suffer from this, but I've driven rebuilt ones that don't do this, ideally I'll like to figure out why my rebuilt one still does grind...
Not that it's undrivable or unenjoyable (before the clutch fix it was) but there's something not quite right and I would eventually like to find out what
I can't remember. Did you do the rebuild of the gearbox or others? New syncros and dog toothed gears?
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
I can't remember. Did you do the rebuild of the gearbox or others? New syncros and dog toothed gears?
I did, New synchros and a new dog tooth for second and first (for the first gear fix)
 

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I did, New synchros and a new dog tooth for second and first (for the first gear fix)
Okay, I am baffled. I have rebuilt a dew and never had a problem with second gear or any other.
Wish I had a suggestion
 

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Is there a way to flip the clip without pulling the transmission? and more importantly whats the correct orientation so that I can check before pulling anything
I've done it. But its not fun. You will need some long hemostats.
 

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I did, New synchros and a new dog tooth for second and first (for the first gear fix)
Did you replace the synchro sleeve/collar?

Also the collars available now are not great. I believe the tooling has worn out and the manufacturer doesn't want to replace it. The last 2 I've rebuilt they have given me problems. Run out is crooked and shifting has not been smooth.

As far as grinding goes. Reverse is going to do that unless you wait for the gears to stop spinning or touch another gear to stop the spin.

What cause grinding on forward gears is first the synchro ring wearing out. This is the ring thats mounted on the gear. Once that is worn enough where it will not slow the gear down fast enough. Once that happens the actual grinding noise you hear is the dog teeth and the synchro collar teeth grinding against each other. This flattens the teeth on both. So both need to be replaced depending on how bad the wear is.

The final thing could be that the gear stack is not all the way pushed together. The triangle pieces (synchro collar hub) need to be heated up and pressed on. If not you run the risk of not getting them full seated. Which will let the gear move back and forth on the shaft.
 
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Did you replace the synchro sleeve/collar?

Also the collars available now are not great. I believe the tooling has worn out and the manufacturer doesn't want to replace it. The last 2 I've rebuilt they have given me problems. Run out is crooked and shifting has not been smooth.
I did replace the collars. It could be what you say and I just put the worst of the bunch towards the second gear and got unlucky this way. They did look good to me but that was only in comparison to the old ones coming off.

In other gears, I can feel a characteristic stiffness as I go through the new synchro into the gear before it engages, I don't get this at all in second, could this indicate something?
 

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Take your gearbox out and find the problem. I had to do this once after a complete gearbox rebuild , I bit the bullet, fixed it properly and was /am glad for it. Until you take it apart and figure it out 鈥 it鈥檚 not going to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Take your gearbox out and find the problem. I had to do this once after a complete gearbox rebuild , I bit the bullet, fixed it properly and was /am glad for it. Until you take it apart and figure it out 鈥 it鈥檚 not going to change.
Yup at this point that's all thats left, just need to find a good time to do it.

I'm going to try doing a full transmission flush in the next few days by cycling through lacquer thinner to see if I can help it in the meantime but the transmission will have to come out in the near future.
 
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