Reading all this I'm beginning to think that the rebuild was not
done to "old world standards"
done to "old world standards"
Right but the whole point of rebuilding the tranny was the fix he second gear crunch. It's got a new synchro, dog gear and everything. Everything was pretty straight forward too so unless I got a defective synchro, I'm not sure what could be wrong with the gearbox that would solely be causing this.the 2nd gear in these trannys are not the best.( remember its a german tranny,, and they might still have some hurt feeling after the last war lol ).. before you put new oil in the tranny, flush it out with paint thinner... stuff the rear of the car in the air.. stuff it in 3 or 4th gear.. rotate the rear wheels so the drive shaft will rotate.. do a lot of rotations. let sit overnight..drain all the thinner out...then refill with correct oil
Not exactly, as the longer rod isn't pre-engaging the clutch at rest, all it does is give you more total clutch travel per pedal press. Your pedal travel stays the same but you get more for each press. This means more distance between the extremes and the clutch disengaging point moving towards the middle rather than the extrememes.Yeah, that didn't seem right to me. A lot of folks (including me) have installed slave cylinders over the past few years, and this is the first I've heard of that being an issue.
Something doesn't make sense here. If the clutch was engaging with your foot almost all the way up before the mod, then it seems like you had plenty of throw and were getting plenty of clutch disengagement when you pushed the pedal. Extending the rod should've increased the throw such that the engagement point would move UP, not down, right?
Am I misunderstanding something here? If the clutch was releasing near the top, there's no way you should've gotten gear grinding with the clutch all the way down. That suggests you had plenty of clutch throw and no slave problem.
Reverse will always grind from neutral on a Spider unless you wait a few seconds to shift after pushing the pedal down. Second will typically grind if you shift too fast, or on downshifts. I'm not sure you had a clutch disengagement problem to start with: can you clarify how you determined that?
This was the first tranny I've ever rebuilt so I don't put it past me to have messed something up, that being said I did follow the shop manual for everything and took my time, and quite frankly everything was simple enough, I'm not sure where I could've messed up. I used all new synchros, new dog gear for second, and modded first gear for the crunch from neutral fix. Once everything was sealed up I filled it with redline 75w-90NS.Reading all this I'm beginning to think that the rebuild was not
done to "old world standards"
Increasing the length of the clutch slave rod does this, it has more rod to push giving it increased travel. I was just trying to describe how lengthening that rod doesn't raise the engagement point but actually will shift it to the middle.Hydraulic travel does not increase every time you depress the clutch. Once the air is out, the rod will just allow the t/o bearing to touch the pressure plate. The only way to increase travel is to lengthen the master cyl rod raising the pedal moving more fluid and then increasing slave throw. Good luck
I don't think that's right. If you install a longer slave rod, the total slave rod travel (how much the end of the rod moves) doesn't change: pushing the pedal to the floor gives you the same throw in the rod. What changes are that the minimum point and the maximum point both move rearward by the same 5/16".Not exactly, as the longer rod isn't pre-engaging the clutch at rest, all it does is give you more total clutch travel per pedal press. Your pedal travel stays the same but you get more for each press. This means more distance between the extremes and the clutch disengaging point moving towards the middle rather than the extrememes.
While what you're saying makes sense and was my same thought at first, the fact that this didn't happen disproves it. The way I see it is that the clutch isn't engaged in either instance (lengthened or shortened), but the rod does rest on the clutch regardless (Think like brake pads on your calipers), as such the minimum point is the same , only the maximum point changes. If I did lengthen it enough to engage the clutch at rest then yes, the minimum point would have changed, but since I still have some play if I push in on the rod it hasn't. Since the lengthened rod still has travel to push back into the slave, the total travel is greater as the rod is just starting a little closer to the slaves cylinder. That's at least how it makes sense to me. With visual inspection, the clutch is getting pushed farther in than it used to.I don't think that's right. If you install a longer slave rod, the total slave rod travel (how much the end of the rod moves) doesn't change: pushing the pedal to the floor gives you the same throw in the rod. What changes are that the minimum point and the maximum point both move rearward by the same 5/16".
With a longer rod, the clutch lever arm starts out closer to the release point (because you're already engaging it that extra 5/16" or whatever at rest). So with a longer rod it should take less throw on the pedal to reach that point and disengage the clutch, and the engagement point should move up, not down.
Anyway, if the clutch was really disengaging at the top of the pedal as stated, then the slave throw doesn't appear to have been the problem: you had plenty of extra pedal distance to fully disengage it. I think you may have been chasing the wrong problem.
6 mm not an inchHere's a way to think about it: let's say you lengthened the clutch slave rod by a lot, like an inch or something. With a rod that long, the clutch would be disengaged with the pedal at rest: the clutch lever arm would be in the same position it would be with a normal length rod and the pedal on the floor.
Again, longer rod moves the engagement point up, not down.
Yes, this is correct, the extra length takes up the free slack. So with the pedal & MC starting in the same place you don't need to push the pedal as far to disengage the clutch, so the pedal release point should move up.Remember that the rod throw is completely defined by the master cyl piston travel. Now, if the fork needs to take up some slack prior to getting into the sweet spot of beginning deflection of the spring arms, you are wasting some of the throw. Thats the idea here - by making the rod longer, it will take up some of the free slack == and it sure doesnt have to be much to have an effect