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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fluid was low refilled with dot 3/4 and kabluwee slave exploded . Going to go thru system . Buy new everything ? $200 for new clutch slave and master or DO I rebuild cylinders . Don't mind the rebuild but just wondering if there is a preference . beck arnley parts are $50 dollars or so and there must be a host to replace also ? Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts . Parts are 4 days away so asking advice now . thanks karl
 

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I would replace the slave and the hose while your at it.

IAP has your slave for $45 and the hose is $12.

Wouldn't think twice about it.

My 2 cents.

Vin
 

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I'll second that.
 

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Don't forget to get the Slave Holding Ring cause you'll destroy the old one taking it out. It's $1.85.
I think that's what it's called
 

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Fluid was low refilled with dot 3/4 and kabluwee slave exploded .
Can you define "exploded" ? Do you mean that the piston came out the end, and it puked fluid all over everywhere?

If that's what happened, the slave may not be at fault - something mechanical in your throw-out fork, TO bearing, clutch pressure plate, etc. is allowing too much travel in the slave piston. This isn't to say that it wouldn't be a good idea to replace the slave + hose while things are apart. But, if there's a mechanical problem, the new one might "explode" the same way.

Hey, here's an idea: Is it possible that the front snap ring that secures the piston to the bellhousing has come loose, allowing the slave cylinder body to shift backward? That would allow the piston to extend clear out of the bore.
 

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Great timing
I m in the process of replacing my master and slave cylinder.
Just how do you remove the snap ring? Caqn you get snap ring pliers on it?
is it in the front side?
 

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No ROOM! You can't fit the tool up there. I just bust it out with a screw driver and hammer, grab the end with Pliers and yank it out, bad enough the Slave will be stuck in the slot cause it's been in there for 20+ years. I wouldn't change the Master unless I was sure it's Busted. They are a PIA to change, but it's at least on top. I have 3 cars I had to change the Slave, but never the Master. I have one in house in case that happens, but not yet. I wish the Vendors would include that with the Slave, as well as the hose. Like a KIT!! First time I did one I had to wait 4 days for a Snap Ring, ~ 15 years ago, but now I know better.
 

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Great timing
I m in the process of replacing my master and slave cylinder.
Just how do you remove the snap ring? Caqn you get snap ring pliers on it?
is it in the front side?
Yes, you need snap ring pliers.

One on the front and one on the back.

Good luck.

Vin
 

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just replaced both on my 82...tried to replace the rubber line but the rigid line was just twisting, since I had a club event to go to 2 days later I left the rubber hose in until I can find a rigid line and do the hole ball of wax...a little issue with the bleeding and overall messy but not bad...not even an issue with the snap ring...dont forget the 7mm wrench...
 

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Clutch Hose from Hell...tamed!

OK...it was a mess! Brake fluid dripping from the slave cylinder, and all around the general area. I thought, well, let's replace the slave, and to be proactive, since I'm down there, the rubber hose, too...that's where the trouble began! I was able to get the gd snap rings off the slave...after many attempts with a cheapy ring plier set...(lesson 1...buy a reasonably nice ring plier set...much frustration will be saved). Next, was to disengage the hose from the solid brass (?) line...no matter how I twisted, even holding the metal line with channel locks...no go, it looked like I would have to wreck and replace the metal line up to the Master Cylinder...I punted, and just replaced the Slave. But...I just couldn't get the line to bleed...I've got one of those vacuum pumps; usually works like a dream...but I just couldn't get the system to hold any pressure. Finally, I tried the bleed the old way...with a female assistant (my daughter...much more tolerant of these tasks than my bride!)...only to be sprayed in the face with fresh brake fluid! Yeah, a pin hole leak in the rubber hose! So, I had probably replaced a perfectly good slave cylinder...obviously, the old hose had to go...after reassurance from a sainted member of this board, I persisted...and after a night soaking with Liquid Wrench penetrant, I was able to loosen the flare nut, and carefully remove and replace the hose...(lesson 2...if it's hard to loosen, it probably was ignored by the last guy, and it will be the problem). So...good luck!
 

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that's was what I was going to say, the 90 deg tiips are the key on the snap ring, also a 15mm wrench on the fitting on the steel line side and a cresent on the nut holding it against the bracket shouldn't twist the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am guessing that the fluid I used was non compatible with the rubber O rings . It puked like a geyser all over engine bay . It was working fine until new flluids where added . Sad to say I also topped off brake fluid . We will be working on it later this week so I am guessing a complete hydraulic overhaul .
 

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The fluid you used, DOT 3 or 4, is indeed the correct fluid so no incompatibility issues here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The fluid you used, DOT 3 or 4, is indeed the correct fluid so no incompatibility issues here.
Ok cool that is a relief just going to order the new clutch slave and hose from IAP . Thanks and will take some pictures I would think parts and work to be done early next week . Gonna soak parts in Peanut Butter blaster to prep removal .
 

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I use a good quality plier (Snap-On) with 90 degree tips. Accessibility is not an issue.
I use the world's cheapest plier I got out of the bargain bin at Ace for $5. No access issue whatsoever with the 90-deg tip. I wonder if that's the trick, or if some cars are different from others......
 

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I am guessing that the fluid I used was non compatible with the rubber O rings . It puked like a geyser all over engine bay . It was working fine until new flluids where added . Sad to say I also topped off brake fluid . We will be working on it later this week so I am guessing a complete hydraulic overhaul .
I'm still puzzled as to what happened. Your slave cylinder "exploded" and fluid got all over the engine bay? The slave cylinder is down behind the starter - did it really spray the engine bay? You're sure you don't mean the clutch master cylinder, which is up top?

I concur with Papajam - no DOT approved brake fluid should cause a failure. And, even if you poured in gasoline, it would take awhile before the seals degraded to the point of causing an "explosion".

Not trying to grille you, just want to understand what happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I'm still puzzled as to what happened. Your slave cylinder "exploded" and fluid got all over the engine bay? The slave cylinder is down behind the starter - did it really spray the engine bay? You're sure you don't mean the clutch master cylinder, which is up top?

I concur with Papajam - no DOT approved brake fluid should cause a failure. And, even if you poured in gasoline, it would take awhile before the seals degraded to the point of causing an "explosion".

Not trying to grille you, just want to understand what happened.

Got me to thinking I wonder if the hose blew because it is streamed up on squirt . I am going to refill and see if it is the hose that exploded . fluid on passenger side engine actually came up to hood and top of air cleaner Thanks for the help
 
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