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Discussion Starter #1
My clutch pedal has been lower than my brake pedal for as long as I can remember. I haven't have any problems with gears grinding so I didn't think anything of it. I read some posts recently that stated the clutch pedal should be equal or higher than the brake pedal. My clutch pedal is 1 1/2 inches lower. So tonight I pulled up on the clutch pedal and it stayed above the brake pedal.

Do these symptoms indicate my clutch pivot is about to go? It was changed by a mechanic about 15 years ago. I changed the clutch slave cylinder last fall. Could the low clutch pedal be due to me not bleeding the clutch fluid properly?
 

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Order one now. If you can move it that much, that easily, there isn't much weld left.

Soon you will have no connection to the shaft
 

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Take it out before it breaks and it's much easier to have welded. If you get it out and take the time to do some per grinding, it's a 2 six pack of cold Bud at the local weld shop job. Show up with beer and part in hand. You will get top service and welding done!
 

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It's broke. Move the car to where you're going to work on it and don't drive it further. You may have one shift left, but maybe not.
 

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Just had mine go...
Welded it up, and it broke again, this time the end weld was good, but the shaft step broke off at the shoulder.
The modified full diameter item will be on order tomorrow.
The slave cylinder was replaced less than a year ago, but I think a new flex hose is a wise move as it looks old and may have failed internally causing a restriction.
 

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Having done this job twice in the last week, here is a tip that I found for the hardest part of the job...
Getting the pin back in the clutch peddle pivot..

The discussion was that the best way was to wrap the thread with some soft wire, and pull it up through... I struggled with this, but maybe it was just me, or the wire I had to hand..
So, here is what I did...
An approximately 4"/10cm piece of electrical shrink wrap.
Put it over the threaded section, and shrunk it tight over.



I was able to feed it into position working from above, and pop the free end up through the peddle hole, and the by working the actuation arm back and forth, to find the correct spot, I could pull, and twist it slightly into postion with ease.
Worked a treat for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I changed my clutch pivot using the instructions in the FAQ. I didn't have to disconnect either the brake or clutch lines. No problem tapping out the pin when I loosened the nut a full turn.

I purchased a reinforced clutch pivot arm and tapered retaining pin from this site Alfa Romeo Clutch Pivot Arms. I took advantage of having the pedal box removed to replace my brake booster.

My clutch pedal is still slightly below my brake pedal, so I need to do some additional adjustments. For the time being, I have full clutch motion and no issues changing gears. And it's nice to have a functioning brake booster again, especially when waiting for a traffic light on a hill.
 

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Welded pivot pins- IF the pins are re welded on just ONE side of the pin, could break off again, thats why I had a precision welder weld BOTH sides- inside weld surface is a tad harder to weld. That will insure a strong weld, if done right. Mine was done in 2004- still strong/never broke again. (have other issues now, like brakes.....LOL)
 

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Yes, as stated previously, welding is a viable solution to your clutch problem. It must be welded properly if it's to last any time. I'll say this about the repair, the complete brake/clutch pedal assembly with housing can be removed from the car as a unit without any dis-assembly. The removal of the clutch pivot arm and the weld repair can be completed easily. Brake and clutch pedal alignment can be achieved with ease if clutch pivot arm is properly marked before it's removed.

Good luck.
 

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I just finished changing my pivot pin. Pedal is back up to the top. Took a little under 2 hours following the directions on the BB.

After pressing down on the clutch pedal several times - the hard tubing from the clutch master cylinder to the hose coming off the slave cylinder blew a hole. Bummer.

I searched around for that part, but could not see one. Does anyone know where I might find one?
 

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They are the short section from the steel line to the slave.
 

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Most part houses will have metric and standard sizes available of steel line. Take the old one in with you and match up to their stock. You will need to bend it to shape for your car. Be careful not to make too sharp of a bend or it will kink. You can also get a simple tubing bender which will make the shape you need safely.
 
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