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Discussion Starter #1
Well...I am stuck.
My twin spark is ready to go, and I bolted up the transmission and clutch and the darn crank shaft would spin cleanly right up until the last 1/4 inch or less of the bell housing being tightened down....then it binds up and the crank won’t turn.

Upon investigation, the clutch is getting crushed between the very back of the input shaft splines and the flywheel... I have Paul Spruell’s clutch setup which looks excellent. An eBay 2.0l spider fly wheel and a supposedly rebuilt 2.0l transmission and bell housing.

I need to obviously measure everything and find out why I don’t have enough clearance in there between the fly wheel and the clutch and the splines.

If I back off the transmission bell housing from the block 1/4” everything turns and engages properly.

Here are photo’s to help. Maybe others have the dimensions of all these parts and can help/advise.








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Get rid of the big circle clip you have on the throw out bearing arm. Alfa quit using it in 1971 but for some reason never took it out of the parts book.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jim. I hate that clip anyway!!!
Measurements to come today.


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That is so bizarre. I know the early Alfas (1300?) bell housing had a thick spacer - close to 1/4". But that would have been a mechanical clutch.

If I had to guess I would suspect that the clutch pressure plate is wrong and too tall relative to the flywheel mating surface. The factory flywheel has to be the right thickness, likewise the transmission input shaft length is fixed and could not be extended. A throwout bearing is a throwout bearing so that just leaves the clutch plate... I think...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Some updates!

It would appear that my problem is not in the clutch at all. It’s actually in the spigot bush that goes into the crank. My transmission pilot shaft is jamming on the bush in the last 1/4” of engagement to the block. This pushes the crank inside the block up against the thrust washers and locks up the crank.

See photos of the trans installed with no clutch whatsoever, and it still bound up and won’t rotate.

Thanks goes to Ian Ellis Alfa on Instagram in the UK. He is well known as the #Alfapope and I can see why.





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Richard Jemison
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Probably because the crank flange is positioned farther out from the block. I had a similar problem with the Montreal engine in my "Coupe")

But that simple problem can be solved by having a thicker spacer built. Or even more simple by using a 2 or 3 "AN" washers (they are all the same thickness) at each bolt/stud.

But as well you must check the distance from the starter mount on the bell housing to the ring gear. The mount on the bell housing must be the same distance as the stock Nord.to the ring gear :unsure: It might take more washers but the Washer trick will give you the correct thickness for your new spacer if you have it built.

Then there`s the issue of drive line length as the "silent block bearing" on the short shaft will be too far back. It will need to be shortened on the Giubo end...:(

Or you can cut off 1/4" of the pilot bearing snout...........but that will only complicate the starter fitment problem.

But I think if it was mine after measuring the ring gear placement and it proves to be too far rearward I would just machine the contact pad on the flywheel by up to 3/16" if that would correct it (but shorten the pilot snout first.)
 

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From the picture it doesn't look like the bushing is all the way in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10


Bush needed a deeper drilling... :). Problem solved


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that's odd the 105 bushes are drilled thru so basically a tube,
 
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