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I was looking for a kit to rebuild the clutch master cylinder, for a '69 Duetto spyder. I have been told by all the regular suppliers that they are "no longer made or availiable." So, instead of an $18 rebuild kit, consisting of a spring and 2 rubber grommets, I now have to buy a new, complete clutch master cylinder, at around $200.
Does anyone know where there might be some rebuild kits still availiable.??
thanks to all
 

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My Oh My.
180 dollars for a 50 year old auto.
What shall we do?
 

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So, instead of an $18 rebuild kit, consisting of a spring and 2 rubber grommets, I now have to buy a new, complete clutch master cylinder, at around $200.
And we thought we were getting soaked having to pay $18 for a lousey spring and 2 rubber grommets.
 

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Jay, you should know about this....
Go to any large brake rebuilder. They have all manner of new seals and can rebuild it right.
Normally $50 near me.
 

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and this thought.. lets say the master has a 22 mm bore in the clutch master cly, ever noticed that brake master cly. seals are the same as the clutch master cly. seal,, they are the same, just the brake has a few more..22 mm in a cultch amster cly is the same 22 mm in a brake master cly.( the 22 mm, was an example)
 

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The US spec '69 MC is tricky and unique. Jim Neill (Papajam) here on the board rebuilds them RIGHT, and has been piecing together the correct seals and such for years. Very reasonably priced, too. I used one of his MCs when I converted to dual circuit on my '67 and am very happy with it.

-Jason
 

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i just got a seal kit for my ATE clutch master (for a 75 spider) from IAP that had been out of stock for months now. AR CLUTCH MASTER KIT (ATE) not sure if that helps...
 

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if it has the same bore diamter, should work just fine..
 

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No, it won't.

The 69 clutch M/C is as unique as the 69 brake M/C in that it's the only year to have a floor mounted clutch M/C. Conventional hanging pedal clutch M/C kits with lip type seals simply will not work or fit; they are a completely different design.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Papajam-
Thanks, I understand you are the expert on these. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder with a brand new one from IAP.So all the lines were emptied of fluid. The master cylinder still LOOKS ok, so I put it back on. However, now I can not get the clutch bled.Fluid is flowing down from the resevoir in the engine compartment, but very little or no "traction" on the clutch. Any thoughts?
 

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Puzzled,
Remove the clutch reservoir cap and look inside as someone pushes the clutch pedal down. If you see a little geyser, suspect the flat face seal in the master is not sealing. If no geyser, then either piston seal is worn or there is still air in the system. Did the clutch work prior to the slave change? If so, air in the system would top my list.

alfasrule,
I see the kit for the hanging pedal master but not for the floor master. Am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advice. My pedals are standing pedals,(unfortunately), so no rebuild kit for that.
I bought the car that had been sitting for about 2 years, so clutch was not working. I flushed out all the old fluids in the line, put in the new slave cylinder, and replaced the (cleaned) master.)
Just do not seem to be able to get the air out.Never had that problem before on the many cars that I have worked on.
I'll try something else tomorrow. If still no luck, keep your eye out for someone parting out a "69 Duetto- cheap!
 

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I replaced the clutch slave cylinder with a brand new one from IAP.So all the lines were emptied of fluid. The master cylinder still LOOKS ok, so I put it back on. However, now I can not get the clutch bled.Fluid is flowing down from the resevoir in the engine compartment, but very little or no "traction" on the clutch. Any thoughts?
I would try "bench bleeding" the MC. This is typically done before the MC gets installed, and doesn't expel all of the air - it just gets all its surfaces coated with fluid, and verifies that it pumps.

You might try removing the MC, rigging up some sort of a temporary reservoir that can supply fluid to the inlet, point the outlet away from your paintwork, push on the rod, and see if it squirts. A working MC will spray fluid for some distance (good for killing weeds). Once it does this, you can install it and re-try getting it to bleed.
 
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