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Discussion Starter #1
I recently swapped out the master cylinder, slave cylinder and flex pipe.
After hooking up the master cylinder to the pedal pivot arm, I noticed that the pedal was sitting lower than the brake pedal although it does appear to be very close to the firewall. I measured the distance on the master cylinder before putting it in as shown in the manual. I did not make any adjustments on the slave cylinder.
I am not sure where to start with trying to remedy this. Needless to say there is very little travel in the clutch pedal and I cannot get into any gear with the engine running.
This was a big project for me and I fear I may have messed somthing up in the process.

Help!
 

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The pushrod on the MC adjusts. Is the new one the same length as the old one? Conversely, were the pedals at the same height before?
The SC has no adjustment. Sounds like you may not have got all the air out of the system; it can be tough to do.
In a worst-case scenario, the clutch pedal shaft can break, but doesn't sound like that's your problem.
Andrew
 

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Sometimes you need to disregard the measurements of the push rod in the book. I had the same problem as you and I adjusted the rod out an additional 1/4 inch. Works great now. Check to see how much play is in the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What determines the pedal position? Is it the pushrod position?

The pivot arm seems to be almost at the firewall yet the pedal is still lower than the brake pedal with very little travel...
 

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The pivot arms shown under Kilgore Trout are the ones to get; not factory. I have had one of these on my GTV for better than ten to fifteen years. Still going strong. Excellent manufacturer to deal with along with an excellent product.

Steve Hurt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will post a pic of the pivot arm, but the pedal position was fine before I replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder....

Any thoughts?
 

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If you reach down and pull up on the clutch pedal does it move? That is an indication of a failed clutch pedal pivot shaft.

I can't fathom how changing the master & slave cylinders could have led to its demise unless it was already on its last leg.

There should be no need to adjust the push rod once it is set to the specified length.

Is the slave cylinder properly seated in the mounting ring on the bell housing? There are two circlips to hold in place - one on either side of the mountng ring. Are both properly seated in their recesses? If the slave is not in the right position I suppose the pedal won't be in the right position either. I think.
 

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I recently swapped out the master cylinder, slave cylinder and flex pipe. After hooking up the master cylinder to the pedal pivot arm, I noticed that the pedal was sitting lower than the brake pedal .....there is very little travel in the clutch pedal and I cannot get into any gear with the engine running. This was a big project for me and I fear I may have messed somthing up in the process!
Tell us about how the bleeding process went. Did you have the bleed screw at the "12 O Clock" position? Was it difficult to purge all of the air out of the system?

If the system isn't properly bled, the clutch won't disengage, and you can't get the transmission into any gear. But normally, the pedal will still return to its normal position.

Tell us about the replacement clutch MC - did you get it from an Alfa parts supplier? Is it possible that you got one from some Internet discounter that "almost fits" ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Clutch pedal is hard in it's current position (lower than the cltuch pedal) with no real movement.

I wonder whether this is a bleed issue?

I did have the bleed screw at 12oclock and the fluid did not seem to have any air left in it when I closed the blewed screw.

The clips were seated well in the mounting rings (even though they were a nightmare to get there!)

I bought all the parts from international auto, so I feel confident about the parts used

Any suggestions for a proper bleed? maybe I need to try and bleed the system again...
 

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Did you also replace the flex hose? I have seen them fail internally such that a 'flap' of fabric acts as a one-way valve. Even new ones can have such a fault...

Attach a length of tubing to the bleed screw, submerge the other end into a bottle with some brake fluid in it so that the end of the hose is below the level of the fluid. Have your trusted assistant press on the clutch pedal so you can open the bleeder and watch what (if anything...) exits the tubing. (make sure the reservoir does not run dry or you'll introduce air into the system)

Close the bleed screw while your assistant holds the pedal on the floor. Repeat 2-3 times.

If the pedal will not move even with the bleed screw opened there must be a fault with the master cylinder or the flex hose. Try wrapping a rag around the outlet pipe fitting on the master cylinder (to catch leakage because brake fluid is a good paint remover) and loosening the fitting (to let some fluid leak out). If the pedal will then move the flex hose is supect.
 

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The Clutch pedal is hard in it's current position (lower than the cltuch pedal) with no real movement.
Uh sorry, I couldn't make much sense out of that.

I wonder whether this is a bleed issue? I did have the bleed screw at 12oclock and the fluid did not seem to have any air left in it when I closed the blewed screw.
Well, it sounds like you bled it properly.

The clips were seated well in the mounting rings (even though they were a nightmare to get there!)
And have you crawled back under the car to make sure that the front clip hasn't popped off, allowing the cylinder to move backward?

I bought all the parts from international auto, so I feel confident about the parts used
OK, we can cross "incorrect parts" off our list.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am trying to bleed the slave cylinder and noticed that the SC rotates in place even though the retaining rings seem to be seated correctly. Is this normal or could this be part of my problem?
I am having a hard time breaking the bleed screw loose as the SC is rotating.
 

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Doesn't the cylinder have two flats on one end, so you can hold it with a wrench? I've not seen one w/o them. Also, from your description of the lever arm being so close to the firewall, with the low pedal, my money is still on a broken pivot arm. The break is usually inside the welded area, and thus invisible. Seen it too many times.
 

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...the SC rotates in place even though the retaining rings seem to be seated correctly. Is this normal or could this be part of my problem?
Normal. The circlips only hold it in place against fore/aft movement - not roundy round.

Doesn't the cylinder have two flats on one end, so you can hold it with a wrench?
All the ones I've seen have flats on them. I suppose some aftermarket versions might not.

I am having a hard time breaking the bleed screw loose as the SC is rotating.
As mentioned, hold it from turning with a wrench. I would suggest some PB Blaster or similar solution applied first (forget WD40 - it won't help in this situation) and use a six point socket to get it loose with less chance of rounding it over. Definately use some rust busting penetrant oil first to lessen the chances of breaking the screw.
 

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It's a new cylinder - the bleeder screw shouldn't be that tight, unless it was well-overtightened during the first bleed attempt. Snug, plus a tiny bit more, is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the insight - I will try again tomorrow with the socket to break it loose first.

If this ends up being a pivot arm replacement - how big a job is it to replace? the MC/SC/flex hose replacement took best part of a weekend... with my level of expertise (which is not that great!)
 
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