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Hey Everybody, With the price of new Clutch Master Cylinders hitting $200.00 bucks these days, has anyone found one from ,lets say, a Toyota or Honda or another make that works for the Alfa? or maybe just changing the shaft to make it work? Thanks!
 

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Clutch MC kits are becoming harder to find and in most cases NLA. But if you take the MC to a rebuilder, they may be able to source seals with same diameter as the originals.
 

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Have you tried all the usual suspects for rebuild kits (Centerline, IAP, Vick)? If not them, maybe AlfaStop or one of the German parts suppliers. They seem to have good prices and the exchange rate is good now. I would expect it you took it to a rebuilder it would cost as much as a new one.

Andrew
 

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The Centerline website lists the 115 clutch master for $113. Certainly a higher price than it was before the Dollar/Euro exchange weakened, but less than $200. Since this is an ATE part, I suppose it is possible that another European car (e.g., Audi, BMW, Porsche) uses the same cylinder. If so, you might find one for < $113, though probably not much less.

The odds that something Asian would work seem slim. Even if you do find something close that could be modified to fit, if it cost $75 and it took some cutting/welding to make the linkage work, you wouldn't have saved much at the end of the day.
 

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:eek:I put one in 2 years ago and it was nowhere near that. Did they like double in price or somethin':confused:
 

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Master Cyl

After my experience with master cyl. problems that turned out to be related to an incorrectly welded pivot arm, I would recommend against looking for a subsitute. The measurements, and volumes of fluid displaced are critical to the function. You can look at my trials and tribulations here. Basically this thread includes an unsuccessfull rebuild, a replacement of the pivot arm, and finally links to the thread where I put in a new clutch, replaced the master cyl, and slave cyl. When everything is new and adjusted everthing works beautifully. Save yourself the headaches, and if you have any questions feel free to ask me anything.

Good luck
 

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I am no hydraulic engineer, but there is engineering science in the design of hydraulic systems. The bore and stroke of the clutch M/C and the bore and stroke of the slave have a critical relationship to the work derived (moving the release lever and and the release bearing against the specific pressure of the pressure plate). If you find another M/C which fits and bolts up, you would need to check the bore and stroke of that cylinder to get the proper characteristics. If you changed either, you would affect the release distance, or the foot pressure required to operate the system. This just for what it may be worth. All this being said, if you do find a compatable replacement, please let everyone know about it.

There is one other alternative. You can have a M/C and/or slave cylinder bored out and re-sleaved back to standard bore. This is done with a stainless steel sleve, or a bronze sleve. If you have this done, you can re-kit your cylinder pretty much forever. The stainless steel and the bronze sleves do not corrode, so you just have to clean the bore up with steel wool and don't have to hone it out. Repeated honing will increase the bore diameter to the point that it will eventually not be rebuildable. If you do a search on White Post Restorations on the net, they do the re-lining of the cylinders using bronze sleves.
Robert
 

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Learning the hard way

As Grad White pointed out, the problem may not be the master cylinder. I rebuilt mine 2 years ago because it was leaking. In the last 2 months I noticed that the pedal kept getting lower to the floor. I adjusted the linkage twice before I came to the end of the adjustment. I mistakenly assumed that something must have gone wrong with my rebuild (damaged piston, inferior materials, etc.) and removed the mastercylinder to inspect it. Nothing appeared wrong, until I tried to put it back together using the parts I just removed. Now I have a damaged seal, and am having a hard time finding a reasonably priced rebuild kit. Anyway, I did some research and learned about the pivot arm issue. Turns out this was my problem all along. If I had only done my homework...
 

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you only need to get a new one if it is is filled solid with rust.(I had that happen)
leaking. or when you hold the clutch in it slowly engages the clutch by itself.
or just the threads are striped out for the hard line.

if not one of the above then you have a problem elsewhere.
leaking out the seals is the most common need for a fix.
 
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