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Discussion Starter #1
So yet another problem with my milano today and another AAA tow gone when my clutch pedal suddenly went to the floor. Apparently the 2 nuts which secure the clutch master cylinder were missing. But the top stud is out so far that I can't get a nut on it. And the stud will not allow the MC to core away from the firewall. And then the lower stud is not out far enough to get a nut on it. Also, the firewall where the clutch MC mounts appears to be weakened, slightly rusty, and looks as if it could break off at any moment.
So, is out just a matter of getting new nuts on there? Or is the split pin where the clutch MC attaches to the pedal possibly damaged? Just not sure what I need to check and how to get the nuts on there.
Are the clutch MC mounting studs simply bolts which I can get to under the dash? Our are they actually studs which should not be moving?

Thanks once again...
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Well, your main problem is that those aren't studs: they're allen head bolts with the heads on the inside of the car.

If you do a search you can find tips on R&R, but it's not a fun job.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, read a bunch of threads on what a pain it is to replace but I'm still not sure about one thing: do the allen bolts thread into the clutch MC or do they just use the bolt to hold everything together?

And if I'm just tightening up the bolts, do I need to worry about the linkage between the MC rod and the pedal our should I just be able to tighten it back up and be good to go? Remember that my pedal went to the floor and the clutch does not work at all right now.
 

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Ok, read a bunch of threads on what a pain it is to replace but I'm still not sure about one thing: do the allen bolts thread into the clutch MC or do they just use the bolt to hold everything together?
There are threads tapped into the MC. The allen headed bolts screw into them.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Make sure it's the MC and not something like low fluid or a bad slave. I seem to go through a slave every 2-3 years on the Milano.

Although that being said, if you've got rust on the firewall around the base of the MC a likely cause is a leak out the piston.
 

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I struggled to get an Allen wrench on the upper bolt when I did my GTV6. I got the old one out by destroying the master cylinder flange. I cut a screw driver slot in the end of a new bolt, got it started with my fingers, then put a screwdriver through the threaded hole of the new master cylinder and screwed it snug. I then only needed to turn the bolt a small amount from inside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So apparently my bottom bolt has worked its way loose so that the whole MC is pivoting away from the firewall whenever the pedal is pushed.

So I guess all I need to do is tighten the allen bolts. Do they always have bolts on the flange in the engine compartment? I'm thinking some one just left them off. (are those bolts just normal 13mm or are they smaller to clear the MC?
 

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So apparently my bottom bolt has worked its way loose so that the whole MC is pivoting away from the firewall whenever the pedal is pushed.

So I guess all I need to do is tighten the allen bolts. Do they always have bolts on the flange in the engine compartment? I'm thinking some one just left them off. (are those bolts just normal 13mm or are they smaller to clear the MC?
Apart from the allen key head, I don't think there's anything special about the bolts. In fact, when I replaced my MC a few weeks ago I rounded the head and wound up replacing them with standard hex-headed bolts. They fit fine.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so finally got at the bolt & tightened it up but now the clutch pedal won't move. It might if I really pushed but it's at the point where somethings about to break & don't want that.

So is it something at the slave which is no longer in position or something with the pedal & MC?

****, had hoped it would be ready to roll now.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So it's the clutch fork pivot bolt. Snapped in half as they do. T thanks to Benny at johns alfa romance for telling me what to look for.

So I have to replace that bolt; any tips or things to do to make it easy? (yeah, I know, it's gonna be a pain.

Any info from those who have done this repair appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
has anyone ever replaced a broken pivot bolt? how the hell do you get the old one out? bennie told me to use a chisel and try to work it loose but there is such little metal to work with and i've only managed to destroy what's left of the bolt. might try some heat. but other than that, i jjust don't know what to do. it ain't budging so far. and the opening is so narrow that getting any kind of vice grips on it just doesn't work at all or well enough. might need to get a good set needle nose vice grips but don't have much faith in that either. any help here appreciated as i miss my super loud milano (still has giant 7 inch hole in the center muffler!)
 

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Hi

Yeah you have to use a chisel, it's not a fun job but normally it's successful. You're not using the chisel to shear the bolt off, you're using it to turn the bolt until it's lose enough that, you can turn it by hand.

Go to Home depot and buy a long chisel and a miniature flashlight. Get as much light on the offending bolt as possible. Now hammer at the base of the bolt, being cognizant that you are trying to turn the bolt as a fastener. Use penetrating oil before you do this.

If you don't like this approach you can remove the front tranny cover and the clutch, then you have full access to the bolt. When you put the new bolt in don't forget to use anti-seize.

Bye
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi

Yeah you have to use a chisel, it's not a fun job but normally it's successful. You're not using the chisel to shear the bolt off, you're using it to turn the bolt until it's lose enough that, you can turn it by hand.

Go to Home depot and buy a long chisel and a miniature flashlight. Get as much light on the offending bolt as possible. Now hammer at the base of the bolt, being cognizant that you are trying to turn the bolt as a fastener. Use penetrating oil before you do this.

If you don't like this approach you can remove the front tranny cover and the clutch, then you have full access to the bolt. When you put the new bolt in don't forget to use anti-seize.

Bye
yup, that's what i was doing; trying to turn the bolt or what remains of it. and it's getting smaller. i bought a variety of cold chisels but none really seems to do it. i guess i will try heating it up if i can even get a torch in there. i didn't try any solvent or liquid wrench or anything like that as i was a little worried about getting some overspray on the clutch but i'll see if i can get some on just the bolt as the chisel by itself ain't doing very well.

(i did manage to fish out the old broken off pivot bolt from down in the bell housing using a magnet. i thought that was going to be difficult but it wasn't so bad.)
 

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Sorry for the bad news but I finally had to remove my transmission to get that bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yay, milano runs again! And with a functioning clutch. But forgot how loud this thing is. Deafening. But if you rev it, it definitely sounds good. I'll try and make a video before I fix it.

Anyways, that **** bolt was a pain. Finally sprayed it with liquid wrench and then heated it up with a torch, but it took a pair of small needle noise vise grips which grabbed onto the large part of the bolt and the washer which since I had chiseled them so much were now distorted.

And then installation is the reverse of removal. Well, sort of. Couldn't get the rubber boot on though because I wanted to make sure everything was ok and not leaking and so installed out without the boot first and then couldn't retract the slave cylinder far enough once it was bled. I'll install the boot when I replace three center muffler.

Ahhhhh, back with milano V6 love.....
 
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