Clutch Master Cylinder Alfa 164 S 1991

Here it goes, largely from memory. See note on removing the pin from the clutch pedal below (ALL CAPS). I think the manual says to remove the knee bolster. I think this is the fold-down cover for the fuse box, etc, under the dash there. Don't skimp on this, as (as I recall) it gives you welcome additional working room. But _maybe_ you can leave it in place. Be sure to get enough working light. Pages 12-4 and 12-5 of the manual.

First, drain the fluid from the combination clutch/brake reservoir. You won't be able to get everything out, and you'll have a couple of ounces to sop up with paper towels or shop rags from the footwell, so be ready. You won't want to just let it dribble onto the carpet.

There is a black plastic cover over the clutch master cylinder (attached to the clutch pedal in the driver's footwell; the manual calls the slave cylinder on the transmission a "master cylinder" and it calls the real deal the clutch pump). Remove the cover.

The master cylinder piston is driven toward the driver by the lever arrangement with the clutch pedal. The business end of the cylinder, where the fluid flows out, is therefore pointing toward the driver. This is where the metal output line is connected. Disconnect this metal line from the cylinder and catch any fluid dripping out.

Disconnect the rubber supply line which runs from the engine compartment reservoir through the false and real firewalls to a plastic barb on the body of the master cylinder. More leakage to sop up.

Undo the cotter key and pin attaching the clutch pedal to the primary shaft driving the master cylinder. THIS MAY NEED TO BE DONE EARLIER. I just can't remember. As I recall, and it isn't clearly, I had to remove the clutch pedal to enable clear access to the mounting stud nuts. It isn't a pleasure, and it will be tempting to cut corners, but as I recall, you simply have to remove some things, like the pedal, to get at others. It's just a job. I told myself I'd remember the order of events, but I've forgotten (hopefully only until the next time I have to crawl under the footwell for this task).

Then undo the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the mounting studs.

"Installation is the reverse of disassembly." Plus filling and flushing the reservoir and cylinders. Some strongly recommend pre-emptively filling the new M.C. with fluid. I can't say not to, but don't let it leak onto your carpet.

Tilo said:

i working on my clutch and I can't get it back in to gear Changed the fluid and bleed the air but it seems that the slave component does't give me an open to shift did I mess a step ?

Click to expand...

When bleeding my 'slave component', the one on the bell housing, I followed directions in another thread.

They suggested removing the slave cylinder (by removing the large circlip) and placing a clamp over the cylinder from end to end so that the piston and rod can not move. Place the slave cylinder (and clamp) with the bleed nipple vertical and up as high as you can get it. It may help to use a Mighty-Vac on the bleed nipple to suck brake fluid into the cylinder. Next, bleed the slave by having an assistant step on the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed nipple at the bottom of each stroke. It'll take a while but eventually all the air will come out of the system -if all the seals are good. If you are doing this job by yourself, it would be helpful to find a Speed Bleeder or Quick Bleeder (bleed nipple with a one way check valve). Unfortunately I have not done this on the slave cylinder yet, so can not recommend the correct part number but I have used them on several other applications with success.

Mark