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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I was having trouble getting into first and reverse. I had to double clutch before it would go in. I added some fluid to the clutch tank of the master cyclinder. I then replace the cap and pumped the clutch pedal. The pedal did not return to the correct position. The only thing I can think of is to bleed the hydraulic line to see if there is a air bubble. Anyone have any other ideas? The warm days are very numbered here in Wisconsin. I would like to drive a few more times before putting her away for the winter.
 

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Search on "clutch arm". It sounds like the clutch arm (the lever on the bell housing that transmits motion from the slave cylinder to the clutch, itself) is bent. This is a common problem.
 

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1966-2013
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The fork? Only ever heard of one doing that, and it was mine :) (for a known reason)

I was reffering to the pivot up at the pedal box where the arm seems to break frequently.

Link to page that shows the whole piece.

Of course it could be the fork, the arm, or even a collapsed softline, but I'd be leaning toward the arm first.
 

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Hopefully, it's the one that's easiest to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tifosi,
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but the piture looks like the mechinisim behinde the clucth filler tank and master cyclinder. Is that correct?
 

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1966-2013
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Yes, that's exactly where it is.

There's been a great many failures just like what's shown on the page I linked to, and when it's failing/partially torn loose, it acts just like what you described.

If you can get a partner to work the pedal, you can look at it while it's moving to see if it's acting silly.
 

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They sure used to be, and I had two fail in a short time before i found the improved version from John, which I'm using on 2 of my Alfa's. (I think he's sold over 100 now, with a zero failure rate.) IAP gave me the standard BS about a problem with my hydraulics, pressure plate, etc, but of course, none of that was true. The factory replacement part is simply a bad design, made worse by low-quality steel and bad welds. The first one actually failed in under 200 miles. The original on my Spider was nearly 30 years old, though, so they used to be quite a bit better. Buy John's part and you're done. It's a job that takes a few hours and just a few tools. If you've got a pressure bleeder for the hydraulics, all the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Does anyone know exactly how the pivot are and foot are supposed to line up. When I took it apart it did not just fall apart. I am thinking that it may have twisted but not seperated (yet). Take a llok at the photos and let me know if the notch and the foot are suppose to be aligned.
 

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Comparing your photo to the ones in John Ortakales' web page it looks about right. But if you've gone to all the trouble of removing the old one, I'd suggest getting one of the up-graded parts and never having to worry about that item again.
 

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I'm having the same issues with my '87 grad, and I ordered one of Johns. I'll post side by side pics when it ghts here...probably Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Eric,
If the current one I have is lined up correctly, do you think it is worth having it welded to reiforce it? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a beefed up one?
 

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Eric,
If the current one I have is lined up correctly, do you think it is worth having it welded to reiforce it? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy a beefed up one?
How much work was it to get the pivot shaft out? Do you want to take a chance on re-installing it only to find out you have to do it again?

John's pivot shafts offer a 'lifetime' guarantee.
 

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1966-2013
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I concur:

The questionable one is out, swap in the sexy one while it's apart now rather than after the tow-truck ride home when you're finally left stranded somewhere dead in the middle of nowhere.
 
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