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Discussion Starter #1
Hello:

My clutch hard tube (running from clutch master cylinder to clutch hose) sprung a leak. So I need to replace that. While I am at it, I am replacing the flexible hose that runs into the slave cylinder.

Below are 2 photos, that lead to 2 questions...

Photo one shows the new hose from IAP and the old hose I took off. This is the end that connects the hard tube to the flex tube.
Question 1 - will the new hose work with the the original flange nut that is on the hard tube, or do I need to get a new, different type of flange nut?

Photo 2 shows in the inside of the original flange nut. It does not look like there is a double flare on the tubing inside the nut. It looks like the tubing hits a lip in the flange nut and stops there.
Question 2 - Is that possible? I am trying to force the tube out the opening, but it is not working. Even after 24 hours soaking in PB Blaster and 24 hours soaking in a rust dissolver. Should I be able to force the tube out the front of the flange nut?

Thanks in advance for your help. All your advice and knowledge has been invaluable so far......
 

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will the new hose work with the the original flange nut that is on the hard tube, or do I need to get a new, different type of flange nut?
I don't know for sure. I haven't tried the combination of parts you are working with. From your photo, I can see that the flared end on the new tube looks larger. Are the threads the same diameter? E.g., does the nut from the old hose thread onto the new hose? If it does, then my guess would be "yes, it will work OK" - I doubt IAP would sell a hose that required changing the hard line. If you are still in doubt, I'd suggest calling IAP.

It looks like the tubing hits a lip in the flange nut and stops there. Is that possible? I am trying to force the tube out the opening, but it is not working.
Sure it's possible. The diameter of the flared end on the tubing has expanded, probably due to over-tightening, multiple tightenings, etc. PB Blaster and rust remover won't do anything in a situation like this.

My clutch hard tube sprung a leak
If you need to replace the hard line anyways, what's the problem with the stuck fitting? Just hacksaw the old line above the flare fitting to remove it.

Where is your hard line leaking? From one of the two fittings, or from a split in the middle? Those things usually last forever. Do you plan to make a new one using a flaring tool?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Jay!

Yes, the new hose threads into the old nut.

Thanks, I had not thought that the flange might be shmushed down so much it cannot come out. To my eyes, it looks like the tube is cut flat across and the hits a lip in the throat of the nut. But I don;t think that would work, so that is probably not what is happening.

I have cut the old tube just out side the nut. I cannot get it to turn, twist or pop out. Below is a photo of it. I tried vice grips and wrench to twist it, and tried a hammer to whack it out.

I might need to try the drill press tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And I guess you had one more question...

Yes - I plan to make a new hard line with a double flaring tool. I talked to Centerline and they say that is my only real option.
 

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I plan to make a new hard line with a double flaring tool. I talked to Centerline and they say that is my only real option.
I can think of a couple of other options:

- Auto parts stores sell pre-flared lines, with fitting installed. Get one of those that is longer than you need, with a fitting compatible with your clutch master. Then cut off the other end and flare it to accept the fitting that goes on the flex hose.

- Buy a used part from Alfa Parts Exchange, ebay, or someone on the BB. Then you won't have to remove the nut from your old hose.

I cannot get it to turn, twist or pop out.
Oh now I get it. I was assuming that the nut turned relative to the tube. But you are saying that they are frozen together. Well, maybe it is rust and not a smooshed flare. Yea, you may have to escallate your weaponry: hammers, drills, nuclear, ....
 

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I was thinking that a used one would have a short useful life and I would just go new.
Nothing wrong with going with a new one. As I mentioned, my rigid lines have lasted forever - maybe my cars see less moisture. I'll bet that the split in your line was aggravated by corrosion, just as the frozen nut was.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got it out, finally. Took the torch to it and the hammer. I looks like it is 1/4 inch (OD) and not metric. That should help in finding replacement line.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello all:

As stated above, I just replaced the pivot arm and the hard tube leading to the slave. I bled it by slowly pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder with a syringe as suggested on the BB. My bleed nipple is at 2PM, not all the way at the top.

The car is not running yet. But before I button up the clutch bleed, how do I know I am done bleeding it?


Here is a Youtube video showing the slave clutch arm moving. Is this sufficient movement?

Thanks,
 

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Richard Jemison
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Hmmmn

Why not just use an Flexible Aeroquip tpye hose and eliminate the hard line and rubber line. AN 3 fittings can be cutoff and welded to the fitting that screws into the clutch slave and AN fitting bought for the MC female inlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry - not sure what any of that stuff is or means. I bought some 1/4 inch hard line from the local parts store, bent it and flared it. Seems to be fine.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Does anyone know what the clutch slave rubber hose cross references with. I need a new one and I am positive it fits a variety of different cars and would like to go out and buy one locally instead of ordering it. I just need the year make and model of other cars it fits that are common and can be purchased at Advance Auto, Orielys, Autozone, etc etc.
 

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alfa PN is 60569601
take that to your local autozone et al, they probably never heard of alfa;)

only cross reference I could find was
remkaflex 2529
spidan 39695

by time you have searched those cross reference numbers and landed on wierd russian websites that slow your computor down, you could have received a proper one from centerline:)
 

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Don't know what year your car is but Advance has listings for 1990 Spiders. Most parts they don't have, obviously, but just go in and ask them. That part is the same for all hydraulic clutch Spiders. If there's a common cross reference they'll have it in their computer.
 
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