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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever pop the head off the pivot ball? Thought I had just a clutch slave failure, but when replacing the slave cylinder I found the bloody pivot fork barely hanging on (to the throw-out). :mad:

The question is: Can I be clever and remove the pivot ball shaft (threaded) from behind? :rolleyes:-Basically trying to circumvent all the work involved with the driveshaft/removal and separation of the clutch housing just to drill and extract it.
 

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Hi ToonRBoy,

Yep... my wife's old Milano broke a whole bunch of pivot balls. If you're clever and lucky, you can access the remaining part through the clutch fork opening (after removing the rubber cover). Use or buy the smallest size vice grip, and you should be able to grasp and remove the stub by turning a little at a time. Then, use a flexible shaft with a magnet on the end, and you should be able to get the broken ball end out. If you file a 13 or 14 mm hex on the flange end end of the new pivot ball stud, you should be able to re-install it through the same clutch fork opening. BIG CAUTION: the insertion is kinda blind as you reach into the hole from under the jacked-up car. Be carefull not to cross thread the pivot ball, since it is easy to drive the thing into the tapped hole incorrectly (ask me how I know).

Anyone ever pop the head off the pivot ball? Thought I had just a clutch slave failure, but when replacing the slave cylinder I found the bloody pivot fork barely hanging on (to the throw-out). :mad:

The question is: Can I be clever and remove the pivot ball shaft (threaded) from behind? :rolleyes:-Basically trying to circumvent all the work involved with the driveshaft/removal and separation of the clutch housing just to drill and extract it.
 

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Yep, happened to me a couple of times. Repaired as above, once got the ball part out, once didn't. Never heard a noise or anything. Made me nervous though.
 

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You're lucky! When mine "went" I pushed the clutch pedal in and suddenly it just fell all the way to the floor, a tow later I found the ball had broken off and of course fell inside ... meaning the whole thing had to come apart. That was somewhere around the 120K miles mark.

GV
 

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That is the sole reason I switched to the platinum transmission. I had to remove my transmission to retrieve the rest of the ball, so what the heck!
 

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I just rebuilt a Verde trans and when I took it apart, there was a little ball in there, but the owner replaced the pivot with out retreiving the ball, I thought it was sort of funny, but this was a spare and I never had it in the car.... Side note, has anyone ever had the reverse light switch strip out and make it impossible to remove?
 

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Richard Jemison
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Solution

Grease! It was orig. lubed at the factory. It must be greased at least annually. If you haven`t done it the resulting loss of friction will be evident immediately.
Pull the clutch rod back & tie off. remove the fork & clean it and the inside of the ball.
This is a good time to be sure it is tight. (red loctite!)
Grease with thick waterproof grease. reassemble & refit clutch slave arm in socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Reply to one's Reply

Just cause I have it handy - a pic of the new one.
pivot_ball.jpg
What I couldn't see on the boken off one while up on the lift is the flange that I might be able to grab with the visegrips - good advice from conedriver.
Looks like I won't have to file the hex because it's got the end machined to a slot.

Better get this done while it's still >50* around here. Brrrr.
 

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I had to actually remove my whole tranny and take it to a welder. There was almost no where to grab it with a vise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, this seems to be a fairly common problem. I've owned two Milano's in the past and never had this happen - just a myriad of other lovely surprises!
 

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I'll post some pictures tomorrow or saturday of how badly my pivot ball broke. Something happened and it smashed that fork right into the transmission housing. Im being forced to switch my Verde to my platinum transaxle now. What pisses me off is it was said it was done when i got the car.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Grease! It was orig. lubed at the factory. It must be greased at least annually. If you haven`t done it the resulting loss of friction will be evident immediately.
Pull the clutch rod back & tie off. remove the fork & clean it and the inside of the ball.
This is a good time to be sure it is tight. (red loctite!)
Grease with thick waterproof grease. reassemble & refit clutch slave arm in socket.
Perhaps a dumb question, but what's the best way to pull the clutch rod back? Is it possible to do with the slave in-situ, or do you need to remove the snap rings and slide the slave out?
 

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Richard Jemison
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Slave push rod

You can just push it back if not partially out of the cylinder. If it is partially out just remove the dust cover & the piston & spring. You will have yo catch the brake fluid in the system & replace it after reassembly. Don`t force it as it may be ****ed to one side.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Thanks for the tips. I got around to doing this today and the ball and fork were completely dry, which apparently is why my clutch effort was getting high. Lubed everything and now it's SMOOTH like BUTTAH :D
 

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mmm this just happened to my verde.... havent done anything aobut it yet i plan to have a go at getting it out today though.
luck im on holidays and iv got parts on order for a full box rebuild.
 

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right o
just pulled the fork from the box... the pivot balls gone. the boot that covers it has been taped up previously and is pretty severly rooted anyway. but the best part is that the cylinder mount has broken. the top most bolt mount has snapped off. the middle bolt wat reasonably tight and the bottom one loose but both of those bolts were bent so maybe thats why the middle one was a bit tight. i havent undone the top one yet but i presume itll be tight since i cant mover the broken bit by hand.

i have another spare parts box [from a 1982 GTV] but the slave is mounted backwards comparably. will i be able to nick the pivot ball from that or is it different [question mark not working].
i had a brief look before i took mine out and i think the forks were different. mine cast and the other folded metal plate. ill check again.

oh and the part the ball sits was compleately dry but around it had dryed grease. i think ill grease up my gtv now...
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Broken-off Pivot Ball can keep you down for a while, but not forever. If you gotta go this route, it helps to have another set of hands.

I think I left off in the winter of '07 with this. Summer of '08 I posted a couple of other tasks: Timing Belt R&R, Water pump, hydraulic De-tensioner. This job was finshed summer '09.

I was really hoping all the suggestions would work to remove the pivot ball. It turned-out to be an all-afternoon affair. The ball had broken off all the way down to the flange at the base. :(
Close_up_clutchPivotbroke.jpg
'Tried squaring it off with Dremel to get a open-end wrench on it. Tried Vise-Grips of varying sizes - nothing. Everything would slip off - I decided we'd have to remove the clutch housing to extract from the front.

Basically, you have to drop the exhaust, pull the transaxle crossmember bolts, and disconnect the driveshaft yoke at the rear. To be able to lower the clutch, you tilt the transaxle by disconnecting the watts linkage - I also disconnected the shocks at the bottom for fear of bending anything. Since the diff is attached to chassis at rear, just lower clutch with the supporting jack.
GTV6_Transaxle_dropped_med.jpg
While your down there, it's a good opportunity to inspect your giubos and trans mounts. - Clutch too. 'Course getting the clutch housing off was impeded by the shifter shaft and shift lever that goes through it! I had to run to two auto parts stores to find a gear puller small enough to pull the shift lever off the shaft. Then she came home to poppa!:p
GTV6_Clutch_Side.jpg
Unfortunately for me, the fun had just begun. Add a trip to Murrays to buy a Titanium bit and bolt extractor - Proved totally futile. :mad: Lost more time. Sun droppin' quickly...
...Out of desperation, a Camel light, some help from St. Pauli girl - the combined brain power of two men equalling one child, we thought:
Hmmm, what if we applied some HEAT? Where's that propane torch Watson?
Clutch_Pivotball_alldone_night.jpg
Amazing what a liberal application of FIRE does to stubborn things!
Clutch_pivotball_alldone_day.jpg
Took some serious muscle and jostling around to get the driveshaft back on there straight. Also make sure to rotate the throw-out bearing so the flats are on top and bottom - so the clutch pivot fork will slide back on - oh, yeah you'll want to lubricate things.

Someone out there is gonna say (yo, where's das boot?) & I'll say, ya' think that's why the dang thing rusted-out in the first place?
So, I ordered a NOS clutch pivot boot from APE. Had a nice gash along the side. But it was still nice, supple (and 1/3 the new price), so I repaired it with a vulcanized bicycle patch kit and installed it with Shoe Goo.

Unfortunately, I then discovered that my Clutch Master had blown - presumably at the same time the slave did -- BULLOX!!!...:mad::mad::cool:
Ordered a new one from IAP (adjustable type with it's own resevoir) and installed it a couple weeks later. That job was easy, just needed some contortionist skills in the cabin :rolleyes:. Bleeding takes a lot of time tho. Twist slave so fitting is at 12 o'clock, install one-man bleeder kit. Pump clutch pedal slowly while rear stays on jack stands. Hope for the best.
 
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