Clutch Cylinder. Repalced master
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Try some PB Blaster on the bleed screw. Let it soak for a day then re-spray. Use a 6 point socket to avoid rounding over the hex shape.
DOT 3 is OK - DOT 4 is better.
Also, the slave cylinder can rotate in its mount. Make sure the bleed screw is uppermost - at 12 o'clock.
How is the flex hose? If there is any doubt about its condition this'd be the time to replace that, too.
DOT 3 is OK - DOT 4 is better.
Also, the slave cylinder can rotate in its mount. Make sure the bleed screw is uppermost - at 12 o'clock.
How is the flex hose? If there is any doubt about its condition this'd be the time to replace that, too.
Yes, the slave cylinder is rotating. Got the bleed screw turning. i tried to do it at 12 oclock but the bleed screw is to hard to turn. Will it be ok if it is close, like 11 oclock setting?
can someone also help me with the proper way to bleed this system. I have a manual but it isn't very clear. Thanks!!
can someone also help me with the proper way to bleed this system. I have a manual but it isn't very clear. Thanks!!
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It's about the same as the brakes:
Get the bleeder at 12 o'clock (it helps to get it loose wherever you can, then roll it up to 12 o'clock and grip the flats of the slave cylinder with vicegrips so it'll stay there while you work. A box end wrench is likely your best candidate for working with the nipple once loosened)
Put a length of (preferably clear) tubing on the end of the nipple down into a glass jar that has a small amount of fresh fluid in it. (end of hose much reach into the fluid)
Top up the resevior
Have a friend start to depress the clutch pedal slowly and crack the bleeder open once they tell you they have begun pressing
Friend should let you know that they are getting close to the bottom of the throw/end of travel so you can close the bleeder before they get there (you want the nipple closed before they actually hit bottom)
Once the bleeder is closed, have friend let off the pedal
Wait a few seconds then repeat the above steps until no air bubbles come out of the bleeder
On the last go-round, snug up the nipple, remove vice grips if used, then tighten the nipple to 4-6ft/lbs (as in not stupid tight), top up the resevoir again, go for a test drive.
Get the bleeder at 12 o'clock (it helps to get it loose wherever you can, then roll it up to 12 o'clock and grip the flats of the slave cylinder with vicegrips so it'll stay there while you work. A box end wrench is likely your best candidate for working with the nipple once loosened)
Put a length of (preferably clear) tubing on the end of the nipple down into a glass jar that has a small amount of fresh fluid in it. (end of hose much reach into the fluid)
Top up the resevior
Have a friend start to depress the clutch pedal slowly and crack the bleeder open once they tell you they have begun pressing
Friend should let you know that they are getting close to the bottom of the throw/end of travel so you can close the bleeder before they get there (you want the nipple closed before they actually hit bottom)
Once the bleeder is closed, have friend let off the pedal
Wait a few seconds then repeat the above steps until no air bubbles come out of the bleeder
On the last go-round, snug up the nipple, remove vice grips if used, then tighten the nipple to 4-6ft/lbs (as in not stupid tight), top up the resevoir again, go for a test drive.
1973 GTV, 1969 GTV, TR4 & 1969 Roadrunner (long gone), 1967 & 1969 Corvettes
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I used Dot 3 and it'll work fine. Some say Dot 4 which has some sort of Resin's (or something) is not interchangeable and/or compatable with a Dot 3 system. Some say it doesn't matter. Just don't use Silicone.
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