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Discussion Starter #1

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1966-2013
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It's possible to do in place.

1st you need a stiff small diameter rod (3/32"~1/8" is good) cut to the proper length minus the thickness of the panel the MS is mounted to.

Leave the clevis yoke and pin in place and release the lock nut from it.
Turn the big hex at the end of the bit that holds the dust boot (3/4" comes to mind) while holding the yoke from twisting and levering against the pedal arm (more for protection of the clevis and cotter pin than anything) until the length is where it needs to be as confirmed and compared against the measured rod making sure that the rod is butted up against the mount panel and not the machined shoulder of the MS that protrudes through it, then re~lock the lock nut against the clevis yoke.

Oh, and as a 'trick~n~tip':
Put a 3/4"~1" flag of masking tape about midway along the length of the cut rod.
For one it gives you a place to write what the thing is for so when you stumble across it in the toolbox 2 years from now it can be identified, and second, it gives a good place to hold onto the thing while its down in the rather smallish area you'll be working in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply,

I should add that this is a 92 spider, not that I think that would make a difference.

I'm afraid that I tore into it before getting your responce. I pulled the entire master cylinder off the car and then made the adjustment. I have it all back together, filled with fluid, and now I have no resistance in the pedal at all.

Help!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Had time to bleed the cutch today, the best that I could. The pedal is a little soft but it shifts nicely. When time permits, I may reverse bleed, as mentioned in other posts.

Thanks for your help.
 
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