Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Clutch pedal adjustment on a 1969 spider

I have a 1969 Alfa spider. The clutch seems to engage at the top of the pedal. It been this way since a new clutch was installed. How do I correct this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So it should engaged at the top of the pedal. My other 1969 had an adjustment nut at the end of the piston. Was this some extra part that someone may have added?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
early 105 s had an adjustable rod (with nut). Over the years they get changed out for the non-adjustable rods. The early slaves were a little different--
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
While I was under the car, I notice the piston could travel about 1/2 inch more. Could this been set by the pervious owner to the wrong length causing the issue?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,637 Posts
early 105 s had an adjustable rod (with nut). Over the years they get changed out for the non-adjustable rods. The early slaves were a little different--
I've never worked on a '69, but know that their slave cylinders and slave pushrods were different from '71 and later cars. Is it possible that DMShuman has a mix of old and new parts? Maybe an original '69 slave cylinder with a later, non-adjustable pushrod?

DMShuman: does the rod on this car have that adjusting nut? It sounds like it does not.

Might another explanation be that the hydraulic system is just fine, but the clutch disk is worn thin? The hydraulic system should self-adjust for wear, but maybe it can only compensate for so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Could be the rod is adjusted too long? Too short and it doesn't engage the pressure plate enough, too long and it doesn't release it all the way? The adjustable rods have a threaded end with a ball nut and locknut. Loosen the locknut and adjust the ball nut to lengthen or shorten the throw.
 

·
Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
Joined
·
16,232 Posts
To summarize the good info in this thread, the 1968 & 69s were fitted with a Type 1 or a Type 2 clutch. Both types had slave cylinders with threaded pushrods and an adjustment nut to allow release fork free-play adjustments. The Type 3 clutch, introduced in 1970 as a 'release bearing in constant contact with the pressure plate', did NOT have an adjustable pushrod. The adjustable slaves, not being available as replacements for decades, can be replaced with the Type 3 non-adjustable slave as long as the original release fork return spring is removed.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,637 Posts
To summarize the good info in this thread, the 1968 & 69s were fitted with a Type 1 or a Type 2 clutch. Both types had slave cylinders with threaded pushrods and an adjustment nut to allow release fork free-play adjustments...
Right. And DMShuman has told us "Clutch was replaced last summer." It's helpful to know the clutch was worked on recently, but what combination of '69 and post-'69 parts are now installed remains a mystery.

So papajam: can you think of any combination of parts that would produce the symptoms that DMShuman reports? Given that the '68 - '69 parts are unique, they probably shouldn't be intermixed with post '70 parts. But are those '68 - '69 parts still available? In other words, can we assume that whatever was installed last year has to be post '70?

My theory of a worn disk is probably out, now that we know the clutch is less than a year old.

DMShuman: Who did your clutch work last summer? What do they say about your high pedal disengagement?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
So papajam: can you think of any combination of parts that would produce the symptoms that DMShuman reports? Given that the '68 - '69 parts are unique, they probably shouldn't be intermixed with post '70 parts. But are those '68 - '69 parts still available? In other words, can we assume that whatever was installed last year has to be post '70?
Jim probably knows different but over the years I have used the threaded pushrod with both types of slaves, in fact that's my setup now--new type slave old type rod. You can't buy the early model slave or repair kit any longer. Like Jim says--you don't need the spring to keep the constant throwout off the pressure plate any longer--the bearing is now designed to run all the time. I would think the newer solid rod with new slave would also run OK but maybe not new type rod with old type slave.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Clutch engages at top of pedal

The clutch parts where bought from Ereminas Imports. I don't think he would sell the wrong configuration but I will check with him tomorrow.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,637 Posts
The clutch parts where bought from Ereminas Imports. I don't think he would sell the wrong configuration but I will check with him tomorrow.
I don't think Eriminas would make that mistake either. Frankly, I don't think they could even do it by accident; I suspect the early-style parts are NLA.

Still, calling Eriminas and discussing the problem isn't a bad idea - they may have some insight. First question they're gonna ask: was the release at the high point of the pedal right after the clutch was replaced? Or did that develop more recently?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The clutch was bad when I bought the car but the pedal always engages at the top of the pedal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Maybe at some point the slave or master was bad. The PO used the adjustment to lengthen the rod to get enough clutch to not grind gears. Maybe with new hydraulics, the rod was too long and never completely released the pressure plate. Your mechanic put in new parts, didn't adjust the rod to where it should be and you are wearing out your new clutch disc. It's been a while but I believe I adjusted mine by loosening the rod until it was loose and while loose, pumping the pedal a few times to let the slave center. Then lengthen the arm until you feel the pressure of the arm holding the TO bearing in contact with the pressure plate. Pump it a few times and see where you are. Adjust as needed to snug the TO to the PP. I don't think you can use the adjustment measurement in the early manual but the adjustment in the later models may work. The early adjustment is designed to hold the TO away from the pressure plate not against it like the new ones. When were the hydraulics replaced?

Jim's the alfa hydraulic guru (among other talents and skills). Can the slave piston be pushed all the way back in a normal operating system if the TO bearing is pushed in too far by a long rod? Is it suppose to go all the way back? Can the clutch never be releasing completely? Just wondering-----
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Have no idea about the hydraulics. Been tying to sort out the car correctly after I bought in late Sept 2013. I just got it back from a engine rebuilt over this winter. Maybe have 60 or 70 miles on the car since the rebuilt. Car ran like a mess when I bought it but the body was sold no rust including original rocker panels. I bought the car in Birmingham Alabama.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,814 Posts
Have no idea about the hydraulics. Been tying to sort out the car correctly after I bought in late Sept 2013. I just got it back from a engine rebuilt over this winter. Maybe have 60 or 70 miles on the car since the rebuilt. Car ran like a mess when I bought it but the body was sold no rust including original rocker panels. I bought the car in Birmingham Alabama.
Good luck--you'll get it there. They're pretty simple with no rust. My green spider lived in Birmingham a few years--they probably know each other!
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top