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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm cleaning out the OVS and replacing all of the hoses with a kit. The old hose has a brass fitting inside to restrict flow presumably. Should I cut open the hose and press it in the new one, or is this un important enough to leave out of the new hose?
 

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So I'm cleaning out the OVS and replacing all of the hoses with a kit. The old hose has a brass fitting inside to restrict flow presumably. Should I cut open the hose and press it in the new one, or is this un important enough to leave out of the new hose?
Hi John,

Are you referring to the larger hose marked as item 21 in the scan below (from page 04-8 of the Shop Manual) that connects the base of the OVS to the large crossover air tube?

If so, then the flanged metal cylinder that seems to have gotten stuck in your hose actually belongs with the crossover tube, and not the hose. You should be able to see the flanged part of that metal restrictor sticking out of the top right nipple in the photo below the scan.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ha! Thanks for the pic, that explains it. I'll cut it out and slide it back in the plastic intake tube. I wonder how it ended up so far down the hose? Intake backfire?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Just some photos; I hear some like these....

First, I'm replacing everything here with hose kits from Hiperformancestore.com....



I'm taking the opportunity to clean off the areas that are visible, now that the washer bottle and OVS are out. Make one clean spot- need to clean all!



Offending OVS. You guys aren't kidding when you say these things get coked up. Took a while to clean out...

 

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Hi John,

Wow. You're starting to have some real fun.

I, too, have slowly and meticulously cleaned years of crud from the engine compartment walls. What a satisfying improvement it makes!

While I was doing that, I also considered applying wax (as extra protection) but I was just too lazy. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a functional reason why one should not apply wax to the painted surfaces of an engine compartment?

And you did completely remove the OVS and soak it overnight (or longer) in a pail of mineral spirits or other solvent and then shake/blow it out and repeat? Some of the goop on the inside of the OVS can take a while to dissolve (days as I recall). I soaked, shook and repeated until the liquid that came out was almost clear.

After all of that abuse, I rewarded the little devil with a new coat of gloss black paint prior to re-installation.

And don't forget to put 20cc of oil into the small line that runs from the OVS to the base of the dipstick or crankcase nipple. I think there should also be a slight dip in that hose (below the entry point in the block) to create a vapor trap like the "J" trap under a sink.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for posting that TSB! I'm not going to replace that long line. It doesn't seem to be that bad, especially compared to the top of the motor, and both ends were tightly on. I'll clip an inch or so off the OVS-side just to make sure, though.

On the OVS; I tapped it on a block of wood until the crud inside stopped coming out. Then I used up my last bit of brake cleaner...I had this great cleaning solution in a small plastic bin that a friend gave me to try a long time ago...I filled it with that ) Chem Dip, IIRC...I let it soak for two hours or so. then drained it. Then, and don't hate, I ran a hose through it until it was clear out all outlets. I blew what I could out with compressed air...that will have to do.

Clean engine bays are so nice to see. I used to pass smog on my 78 BMW due to freshly waxed engine bay..no smog pump any more, no thermal reactor...it passed the tail pipe test easily, but should have failed visual. I always thought that it was due to the work that I put in keeping things clean under the hood...
 
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