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Changing 164 master cylinder/bleeding brakes

20K views 80 replies 23 participants last post by  Rogue Leader 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, again it is hottest day of year but I got started changing my 1991 164 12v V6 brake master cylinder 60760126.

My car is a non-ABS so there are four brake lines going to master cylinder instead of two on ABS models. Same master cylinder used on all 12v V6 164B/L/S models but L and S models have ABS so bottom two master cylinder ports are plugged on those models and two top port lines go to ABS pump and then the four brake lines go from ABS pump to brakes.

Shop manual makes it sound simple HOWEVER COMMA they fail to mention some dissassembly of engine compartment is required to even see master cylinder.

To make it easy on myself I removed the following first:

1. Air cleaner top with air flow meter and bottom including mounting support after I unbolted cruise control actuator from support.

Note models with ABS will have more brake lines running forward to pump as shown in last pictures.

2. Drained engine coolant and removed coolant tank.

3. Removed AFM inlet corragated tube from throttle body.

4. Disconnected heater hoses from engine and coolant tank tee fitting.

5. Sucked fluid out of brake reservoir with vac pump brake bleeder kit.

6. Disconnected brake reservoir from body mount and disconnected hydraulic clutch master cylinder fuild supply hose from reservoir (port blocked off on A/T models). I left supply hoses from reservoir to brake master hooked up.

7. Loosened/disconnected steel brake lines from master cylinder with 11mm brake line flare nut wrench.

8. Removed two 13mm nuts and star washers holding master to brake booster and broke vacuum by pulling on master cyllinder.

9. Removed master with reservoir and lines as one unit and retrieved vacuum booster o-ring for face of master cylinder from front of booster (Major item to account for).

10. Removed hose and elbows from old master with reservoir attached.

11. Cleaned out reservoir and hoses with brake clean spray solvent and blow dryed with compressed air hose nozzle.

12. Installed elbows, hoses and reservoir to new master cylinder and installed new brake booster sealing o-ring on face of master cylinder in machined groove. Note on ABS models install two steel plugs from old master to new master bottom two ports.

13.Reinstall master, washers and attaching nuts loosely.

14. Hooked up and clamped clutch master supply line to brake master (NA A/T models) and reclamped reservoir to body.

15. Carefully started all two or four steel brake lines (depending on non-ABS or ABS set up). Once all line flare nuts started in master cylinder ports and turn easily tighten two 13mm mounting nuts to booster and then tighten brake line nuts with 11mm wrench and finish final tightening with flare nut wrench.

16. Filled reservoir with good grade fresh brake fluid DOT 3/4 such as Castrol LMA or Pennzoil super heavy duty which has a minimum 448F boiling point and a wet boiling point of over 311F.

17. I used a Actron Europe automatic brake and clutch bleeder kit CP4062 from UK I bought from www.ipdusa.com IPD Volvo # 4062. It uses air pressure from front tire to pressurize system.

18. I bled clutch slave first since feed port of clutch is higher in reservoir than brake ports.

19. Next I bleed two front brakes and then jacked up rear body under trunk and then jacked up both rear suspesnions under trailing arm pivot points under rear struts to keep rear brake proportioning valve in weight on wheels configuration and then bleed rear brakes.

20. Reinstalled wheels and torqued lug bolts to 75 ft lbs.

21. To be continued as temp is 97 and heat index is now 105 and tomorrow is another day.
 

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#76 ·
With the hex caps removed, I found the back side of the rod pushed up tight to the bottom of the hex cap - no room for it to push further into the valve body, only outwards.

Regardless of any exterior valve body corrosion, those hex cap screws are on there like a son of a *****.
 

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#77 ·
Interesting. In theory then if I pressurized it with air it should also push them out a bit too right? Maybe to test I can just use my compressor.
 
#78 ·
Air will work fine to test. Just pulled out a used one to make sure. This one is moderately pitted inside, but actuates fine after I cleaned and lubed it some time ago. Beware of spraying fluid and junk from open ports! Hopefully this video works...

 
#79 ·
Re: Brake bleeding order.

What order should the brakes be bled? Steve mentions doing the fronts then rears in the initial post. I'm sure probably like on any of my other cars theres a specific order (usually involving the rears first) that this needs to be done. I am likely installing the rear calipers on Monday and then I will be ready to bleed this all out finally.
 
#80 ·
System is supposed plumbed to be LR and RF and RR and LF so diagonal bleeding starting with the longest run to rears then a front and then next rear to last front. The ABS pump has only two lines in from master and then four lines out.

Important thing to remember is simulated weight on wheels to keep rear brake valve in rear cross-member ports open. Also to be sure rear valve control arm and linkage rigged properly. I seem to remember with rear suspension loaded as with wheels on ground configuration you hang 11-12 lbs weight on linkage to reload piston linkage spring tension and then tighten the 10mm nuts on linkage stud(s) to hold that setting.
 
#81 ·
Ok so all is in and functional, I had a couple of small leaks at some of the junctions I used. I bled the brakes with my Motive pressure bleeder 3 times. They work correctly, feel confident, my only issue is the pedal travel seems to be a bit longer than I am used to. The pedal at full pressure goes to just below the gas pedal (at rest position) Is that normal for this car? Its solid and consistent every time, so I don't believe I have any air or leaks anymore.
 
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