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Would one of the one way self bleeding fittings work for the slave as some use on the brakes?

I was lucky I guess when I had to bleed the slave on my LS without one, so did take two people. A couple of whooshes to pump the old fluid out. Worked fine after the bleeding.

I think that the trick is to not let any air in the system when replacing the fluid, but not changing the slave itself. If you are starting out with a new slave, then I suppose it can be a problem to bleed properly. One of the advantages of having different colored fluids such as the ATE Blue and ATE 200, but not in this country anyway.
 

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Ok I don't think I have that puck. I do think I'd like to stick my turkey baster into the clutch tube and pull out that black fluid before starting though, its just in awful shape and I don't want it to mix with nice new fluid.

I'm glad I can use my motive bleeder then I'll do the brakes first then once I have them together then the clutch so I don't run into the situation you mentioned. Funny thing too, there was no clamp holding the clutch hose to the reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
"Funny thing too, there was no clamp holding the clutch hose to the reservoir."

That is pretty normal especially for cloth braided covered supply hose on clutch port.
 

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Ok so trying to figure out before I put this back in if it works. Those two ball bearings should they push in? Because they don't, they are completely frozen in place. Tried a mallet, and a few other things, no movement at all. (Its dirty form dousing it in PB Blaster)

 

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Ok so trying to figure out before I put this back in if it works. Those two ball bearings should they push in? Because they don't, they are completely frozen in place. Tried a mallet, and a few other things, no movement at all. (Its dirty form dousing it in PB Blaster)

Your plowing new ground as I have never taken that brake valve apart.
 

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Been to long, I don't remember. I want to stay they move...
 

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Been to long, I don't remember. I want to stay they move...
Ugh thats not good. Those things are NEVER moving again. I soaked it in superclean for 2 days. Then I just drowned it in PB blaster. This car is going to nickel and dime me to death lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Ugh thats not good. Those things are NEVER moving again. I soaked it in superclean for 2 days. Then I just drowned it in PB blaster. This car is going to nickel and dime me to death lol.
Welcome to the Ship of Fools 164 Resurrection Club. The stories we can tell. Since car already has ABS pump why don't you just hook long line A to rear brake A and long line B to rear brake B with an adapter of some sort? Aren't you changing all brake lines anyway?
 

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Welcome to the Ship of Fools 164 Resurrection Club. The stories we can tell. Since car already has ABS pump why don't you just hook long line A to rear brake A and long line B to rear brake B with an adapter of some sort? Aren't you changing all brake lines anyway?
I am changing them all, I'm actually just finishing that job (I'm on the rears now). I could easily bypass the rear proportioning valve but I would imagine its there for a good reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
i am changing them all, i'm actually just finishing that job (i'm on the rears now). I could easily bypass the rear proportioning valve but i would imagine its there for a good reason.
i have seen new ones on ebay from euro sellers but not cheap.
 

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i have seen new ones on ebay from euro sellers but not cheap.
Jason has good used ones so he is going to take a look at them for me and if we are correct about mine being siezed I'll get one from him, otherwise yes I see them for around $200 in Europe. I hope I don't need to go that route

Bypassing it would not be good, one bad bump in the rain if I tap the brakes for some reason it will loop the car. The ABS is set up expecting that pressure reduction, and not only that, its ancient.
 

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Ok so trying to figure out before I put this back in if it works. Those two ball bearings should they push in? Because they don't, they are completely frozen in place. Tried a mallet, and a few other things, no movement at all. (Its dirty form dousing it in PB Blaster)

For anyone wondering Jason has confirmed the ball bearings on this DO need to push in on actuation of the rod. So if you remove your rubber boot and rod from your proportioning valve and these are frozen in place, the valve is junk.

He has a good used one on the way to me now.... Hopefully one of the last puzzle pieces I need.
 

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I've had a couple of these apart for inspection. Brake fluid pressure will act to push the rods with the ball bearing tips OUT of the body of the proportioning valve, not in. In operation, the pushing outward of the rods will be restrained, or not, by the metal plate under the large rubber boot.

The rods with the ball bearing tips can't be pushed into the body of the valve without removal of the 10mm hex caps. Before you toss the valve in the trash, unscrew those two hex caps, extract the business inside the valve and inspect the internal walls of the valve for scoring.

Some pics of the parts and pieces you'll find.
 

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Thats strange, Jason is telling me on the one he has the rods push in from there. I'm gonna see if I can get it apart when I get home but TBH those nuts look pretty siezed on mine.
 

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With the hex caps removed, I found the back side of the rod pushed up tight to the bottom of the hex cap - no room for it to push further into the valve body, only outwards.

Regardless of any exterior valve body corrosion, those hex cap screws are on there like a son of a *****.
 

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Interesting. In theory then if I pressurized it with air it should also push them out a bit too right? Maybe to test I can just use my compressor.
 

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Air will work fine to test. Just pulled out a used one to make sure. This one is moderately pitted inside, but actuates fine after I cleaned and lubed it some time ago. Beware of spraying fluid and junk from open ports! Hopefully this video works...

 

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Re: Brake bleeding order.

What order should the brakes be bled? Steve mentions doing the fronts then rears in the initial post. I'm sure probably like on any of my other cars theres a specific order (usually involving the rears first) that this needs to be done. I am likely installing the rear calipers on Monday and then I will be ready to bleed this all out finally.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
System is supposed plumbed to be LR and RF and RR and LF so diagonal bleeding starting with the longest run to rears then a front and then next rear to last front. The ABS pump has only two lines in from master and then four lines out.

Important thing to remember is simulated weight on wheels to keep rear brake valve in rear cross-member ports open. Also to be sure rear valve control arm and linkage rigged properly. I seem to remember with rear suspension loaded as with wheels on ground configuration you hang 11-12 lbs weight on linkage to reload piston linkage spring tension and then tighten the 10mm nuts on linkage stud(s) to hold that setting.
 
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