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Discussion Starter #1
The symptoms:

Bruno will lock all four doors via the centre console switch if all doors are shut (this is OK!).

Bruno will unlock all four doors again, very quickly, if a door is open.

Locking the car with the key only sometimes actives the rest of the locks. Most of the time, they either stay locked

Is this an issue with an activator in the drivers door lock? At some stage, someone has replaced the ignition lock on Bruno with another one, so the door locks don't match the ignition key. If I'm pulling the locks, I'll get them re-keyed I suppose, but do I have to?

Where is the switch that indicates the door is shut?
 

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The symptoms:

Bruno will lock all four doors via the centre console switch if all doors are shut (this is OK!).

Bruno will unlock all four doors again, very quickly, if a door is open.
This is standard behaviour - if either front door is open, that door cannot be locked, so the actuator finishes the 'lock' cycle in the 'Up' position, and that tells one of Bruno's many control units to unlock the other doors again.

Locking the car with the key only sometimes actives the rest of the locks. Most of the time, they either stay locked
... ?
I sense that you didn't have chance to complete the above sentence :)
Also we need to be a little more specific over whether this behaviour is from Bruno's driver's door or Bruno's front passenger's door. Both should command the system to lock/unlock the other doors - but as noted above, this is only possible with both front doors closed.

Is this an issue with an activator in the drivers door lock?
Yes, maybe. When you lock the driver's door from outside with the key, or from inside by pushing down the pin on the top of the door trim, the other doors should lock. And the same for the passenger's side. If this does not happen, it means the switch inside the lock actuator is not being closed in the 'lock' position. And similarly if the other doors do not unlock when either front door unlocks, that means the switch is not closed in the 'unlock' position. You could have a wiring break, but I think this is unlikely due to the quality of the 164's door wiring installation (you may laugh; but 80's FIATs are much worse and broken wires at the door hinge are common).

I took off a trim panel from my '91 164 recently and noticed that the lock motor appeared to be a standard type. There are two designs of central lock motor in the automotive world - the standard type, and everything else ;) I thought that my previous, newer '92 164 had a proprietry (non-standard) type, but I could be wrong.

So - I think you just need to go down to Dick Smith Electronics and buy their Central Locking Kit (in the Security section, intended for fitting to Japanese cars that sometimes lack the motor on the driver's door), which is a bargain NZ$29 (less in AUS$) and includes four standard-type lock motors (two of the front-door type, with switches, and two of the back-door type). You will then be able to replace your lock motors (and splice the wiring appropriately) - the wires have different connectors, but the mechanical actuator is a drop-in replacement.

Of course you may like to test your existing motors/switches, and if you're really keen, you can drill out the rivets and split the actuator apart to expose the mini-microswitch, which can be replaced with one from Jaycar, cat. no. SM-1038 (remove the unnecessary operating lever). The wiring is dead-simple as the common ground is switched to one wire for 'down-locked' and one wire for 'up-unlocked'. Therefore it is a SPDT switch (and yes, I have done this!)

But the usual failure mode with the original Swiss-made units is that the alloy pinion wears out, so that the (plastic) rack becomes hard to move by hand. This could actually be the fault with yours - when you lock with the key, the switch is not activated because the rack doesn't move (can't turn the gear on the motor). Note that this does not preclude the correct operation from the centre console lock button as you described: the worn motor gear can move the rack, but not the other way around. Never let anyone tell you that metal gears are always superior to plastic gears (where have we heard this before? ;)) because here is proof that an alloy gear, in contact with a plastic rack, wears the alloy teeth first. The Chinese-made lock motors that you will put in as replacements have all-plastic gears, and they never seem to give any problems. You would have thought that the Swiss knew all about making gears... but I digress. After all, the originals are now over 15 years old.

At some stage, someone has replaced the ignition lock on Bruno with another one, so the door locks don't match the ignition key. If I'm pulling the locks, I'll get them re-keyed I suppose, but do I have to?
Yes, I never like people that change one lock and not the others. I think I would be inclined to remove the ignition lock barrel (put in key and look for release tabs/pins on the barrel housing - you don't need to remove the housing from the steering column) and then with lock removed, put in the door key and see how out-of-line the tumblers are. Any that are a long way off can be perhaps removed or swapped around with others. Then when it is close, you can use a file, grinder, or similar to just trim the tumblers flush with the barrel. It's a bit crude and reduces the security of the lock for each tumbler that you remove (i.e. increases the number of possible keys that fit), but you can weigh this against the convenience/'originality' of having one key that fits all. A few wet days in a carpark, accidentally using the ignition key to try and open the doors, may help to change your mind ;)

The alternative is to pull apart the locks from both doors, the bootlid badge, and the glovebox button, and re-key all those to the ignition key. I know which I'd rather do...

Where is the switch that indicates the door is shut?
I believe this is a totally-separate item from the central locking, as this is a switch within the door latch assembly that operates the Check Control system, which in turn illuminates the instrument panel door-open lights, and the interior lights. Unless those are not working, you don't need to go there. I also recall that the 164 has a superior non-contact magnetic switch in the latch, rather than the microswitch fitted to the other cars. Many cars still have door-pin switches for the interior lights, which you will have noticed that the 164 does not have.

EDIT: Steve identified this switch inside the latch in his post below, but what I said still holds; I believe it is not related to the central lock system and that the small microswitch inside actuator (which Steve also mentioned) is definitely the target for your testing.

So what I suggest you do is: remove the actuators, especially those in the front doors, and check that each actuator (rack) moves smoothly by hand (and even that you can hear the clicking of the switch). If there seems to be binding or teeth-jumping, replace with the actuators from the DSE central locking kit and report back ;) If the rack moves well, test the switch with a multimeter (the actuator probably has two plugs - three pin and two pin - the switch is the three-pin one. You should find two pins connected with the actuator 'up', and two pins connected with the actuator 'down'. You may elect to replace the microswitch, or just replace the whole actuator.

Cheers,
-Alex
 

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The symptoms:

Bruno will lock all four doors via the centre console switch if all doors are shut (this is OK!).

Bruno will unlock all four doors again, very quickly, if a door is open.

Locking the car with the key only sometimes actives the rest of the locks. Most of the time, they either stay locked

Is this an issue with an activator in the drivers door lock? At some stage, someone has replaced the ignition lock on Bruno with another one, so the door locks don't match the ignition key. If I'm pulling the locks, I'll get them re-keyed I suppose, but do I have to?

Where is the switch that indicates the door is shut?
1/2. Normal
3.. Now for rest of statement please?
4. Maybe issue, door lock actuator could have a bad connection so not always sending signal to central locking.

Door lock actuator and door closed indicator two different items.

Actuator located outside/below door latch and closed/open switch located inside latch.

Key lock mechanism manually locks/unlocks only door that key inserted and turned. Mechanical linkage locks door latch and latch mechanism movement manually moves plunger in door lock system actuator. There is a tiny micro switch inside actuator that sends a signal to central locking. Maybe that switch is going bad.

Does locking doors from passenger door work 100 % of time? If so, then driver's door actuator or wiring must be the cause of problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys - yes I failed to complete one of the sentences.

The passenger door lock has no effect over the central locking at all (bummer). The drivers side is only sporadic. We have a Dick Smith here so a $29.95 set of door locks should be OK I suppose (I have a set of these fitted to my old Jeep and they work very well).

For some reason, opening the drivers door does not activate the nice picture of the car with the open doors, all the other doors are OK though. I should have checked all of these things out when I was replacing the front speakers and fitting the new drivers door handle, but no matter - I'm getting pretty good at opening up the doors :)

If I could work out how to manually flip the heater flap so it's closed, I'd be in Alfa Heaven pretty much. The A/C compressor is spinning like a champ when A/C engaged but lots of hot air and clicking noises in cabin. Any tips on that?

cheers.
dave.
 

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You'd be better off with real ones that trigger the door closed indicator (and int lights). Talk to Adam (evilgidget) and see if he has them.
As Steve and I both noted in posts above, we believe the door-closed switch is a separate issue - it is in the door latch mechanism and not in the actuator, at least for the '91 164. Perhaps you didn't have time to read my post ;) A standard-type lock actuator should work fine for the locking.

I agree that a door latch replacement is probably on the cards, for fixing the door-open/interior light issue.

-Alex
 

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Thanks guys - yes I failed to complete one of the sentences.

The passenger door lock has no effect over the central locking at all (bummer). The drivers side is only sporadic. We have a Dick Smith here so a $29.95 set of door locks should be OK I suppose (I have a set of these fitted to my old Jeep and they work very well).

For some reason, opening the drivers door does not activate the nice picture of the car with the open doors, all the other doors are OK though. I should have checked all of these things out when I was replacing the front speakers and fitting the new drivers door handle, but no matter - I'm getting pretty good at opening up the doors :)

If I could work out how to manually flip the heater flap so it's closed, I'd be in Alfa Heaven pretty much. The A/C compressor is spinning like a champ when A/C engaged but lots of hot air and clicking noises in cabin. Any tips on that?

cheers.
dave.
Replacing keyed door lock sets will not fix your problem because as already stated door latch has switch for door open red icon bars in intrument cluster and actuator is what talks to central locking control to lock and unlock other doors. If center console switch works locking correctly then you probably have a wiring issue in doors probably mirco switches. I have my cars wired with toggle switch in driver's door to be able to prevent driver's door from unlocking other doors for my two lady's safety in dark parking lots and then
they can open other doors with central locking if they need to do so for real fellow passengers they know.

As for heater temp control of air flap door if stepper motor gears stripped you have to find that stepper motor and disconnect wire push-pull cable going to temp door lever. Not sure exactly where that is on the RHD models but if you have a/c it maybe same as LHD models and in same place if so it is under your instrument cluster.

Did you check lever behind false firewall to be sure cable is attached and lever not broken?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will strip the doors out again to have a look at the microswitches and check whether the wiring is OK.

I think I have a stripped stepper motor in the A/C - I can see the lever that closes the heater flap working but it only moves 1cm. Moving it with a screwdriver resulted in a far bigger movement and tepid air in the cabin rather than blazingly hot (which is fine for the moment). I finally worked out where the A/C coils are and pulled the cabin air filter out to check whether they were cold or not. Nope. Cabin air filter has been gutted and covered with screen door wire, so new filter required. I'll get it changed to r134 and gassed up - there's a SAAB mechanic in town who does A/C work, and while I hate to spend the money, I like cold A/C :)

Not too worried about the stepper motor issue right now as thanks to other posts on this forum I can switch between hot and cold, won't be needing the heater much over the next 3 months anyway.

I've been meaning to travel down to buy some parts off Adam (evilgidget) for some time, but haven't had the time or resources so far this year. Thanks again for the help everybody.
 
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