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Is it possible to fully collapse the threaded collars to gain enough room to replace the bushings at the front of the caster rods? That is turn them so the threaded portions thread into the color on both ends, seems like it may be possible. I don鈥檛 know if I have it in me to deal with the upper arm rivets at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Caster rod bush

Just some encouragement. It鈥檚 really not that hard. Grind of the rivot head. Centre punch the rivot and drill out. Replace with high tensile bolts.
Ps undo the nut at the front of the caster arm before removing the rivots.
 

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It may be even easier than that, grind it as above, than take a punch and a BFH and drive it out. It shouldn't take much more than a few minutes. If you don't have a grinding wheel, you can cut down through the head making an "X", knock the head off with a chisel (chisel between the head of the rivet and the A-arm) and the aforementioned BFH, and then drive what's left out.
 

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Some sort of poly bushing, either Performatek or Centerlines offering, any thoughts?

I have the Performatek on my car. Very nice. I certainly wouldn't go back to the stock ones. a guy would be better off putting marshmallows in their place.
 

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I was able to do the poly bushing replacement without removing the A arm. Need to screw the adjuster down full to move the rod rearwards, and push the upper wishbone rearwards, with a prybar. It takes two people usually. Its the method described in the workshop manuals. Takes some muscle but it can be done. Make sure you mark position of the adjuster in relationship to the threaded rod or count threads.


But if your putting poly in the castor bushing, why not take the upper wishbone off, and put poly bushings in the upper wishbone while your at it? Of course that probably takes more time than what you said you have.
 

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Hi

Can you post a picture of your upper A-Arms ? I'm guessing you have an Alfetta, and you have the Alfetta type, upper arms which have the castor rod riveted to the upper arm with three big rivets. Is that right?

If so go buy yourself a set of GTV6 upper arms and castor rods that have the bolt on castor rod, they are a direct fit. Removing those rivets is very hard.

Hope this helps
 

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Hi

Went to your picture site, very nice indeed. So I'm guessing that you have done the job already. I see you have SPAX gas shocks. How do you like them? You might considering starting a thread on them (like what settings you use and so on. What size are those torsion bars ?

Bye
 

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Torsion bars are 33mm and spax shocks set to firm. Basically for trackday time trials. I do drive it on the road too and dont find it too harsh. Roads in northern Nevada and the Sierra are pretty good. This setup is not made for city driving. I have rear springs to match the 300# torsion bars.
Typical bars and springs are somewhere around 120-150#.
 
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