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Discussion Starter #21
Since the weather is not too cold and not too hot (the HVAC unit is off the car), I have been driving the GTV6 around town lately. I had mentioned that the car was stumbling when I gave it throttle from idle; this improved a little as the engine warmed up, but didn't go away. Also the hot idle was good but the cold idle was bad.

I pulled the AAV; it was not dirty inside. I put it in the freezer and hit it with a heat gun. When cold, the moving damper was only slightly open, and when hot the damper was completely closed. Fooling with the adjustment nut did almost nothing. The bimetallic strip was moving the damper, but not nearly far enough. I decided to do some grinding on the damper with my Dremel tool. I was able to get things so that there was a small orifice when hot, and an orifice that was about 3 times bigger when cold.

I measured about 35 ohms across the electrical terminals, so I figured that the internal heating unit was not burned out.

I put the modded AAV back on the car. The cold idle started at about 1300 RPM, progressively came down to about 900 RPM. So that was better.

I advanced the ignition timing a few degrees, and that greatly helped the performance as I dipped into the throttle from idle. I also determined that I had some tiny vacuum leaks. I found that many of the hose clamps could be tighter, so I tightened them all. That made the idle speed adjuster work a little better; also made the AFM air bypass adjuster work better. Not surprising.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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When I got the car the power mirrors were nonfunctional. Also the mirror glass was bad.
Got some new glass made locally.
Nothing was broken in the adjuster mechanisms; just frozen up. Disassembled, did some tweaks, and lubed with dry lubricant. Reassembled. Adjuster mechanisms function now.

View attachment 1626092
Any tips for getting into the mirrors? My driver side glass is loose, and neither side works smoothly. Im sure both could stand a lube.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Remove the rubber O-ring type gasket, remove the metal cover (squeeze it top and bottom and pull; you may have to use a screwdriver or two to release the little tabs that hold the metal cover on), using a small flat bladed screwdriver release the 4 plastic tabs that hold the mirror glass assembly onto the round plastic ring (if the mirror assy is still on the car, use some tape to prevent the glass from falling on the ground while you are doing this step). With the glass assy out of the way, you can get some lube on the plastic mechanism (I used spray-on dry lube). Further disassembly of the plastic adjuster assy (where the motors and gears reside) would require that you remove the mirror from the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Anybody else put a 164 alternator on a 2.5L GTV6 using the GTV6 alternator mount?
The pictures show an unmodified 164 alternator (other than swapping pulleys) on a slightly modified GTV6 mounting scheme, and using the standard GTV6 alternator belt.
Curious if anybody else has tried this.

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Anybody else put a 164 alternator on a 2.5L GTV6 using the GTV6 alternator mount?
The pictures show an unmodified 164 alternator (other than swapping pulleys) on a slightly modified GTV6 mounting scheme, and using the standard GTV6 alternator belt.
Curious if anybody else has tried this.
I had been looking into this--- whatever you do, be sure to upgrade the original B+ wire from the alternator to the junction block to a larger-gauge wire. My original B+ wire for my '81 GTV6 tested good when I first got the car going about 3.5 years ago, but recently was the source of a 0.8 volt drop!

Also, the higher amperage output will only make a difference if you have extra electrical equipment installed on your car (stereo, driving lights, etc). Most electrical issues on these cars are caused by voltage drops at various connectors, wires, and switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Pulled the whole rear end off as a unit today. Methodology worked well for old, skinny guy. The Quickjack was handy for sending the car up, then down some, then back up during the process.

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That’s pretty cool. Kinda looks like a whole lot of slippery slope now though..... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Cleaned up some parts today.
Thirty five years of surface rust.
Yikes!
1631992
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Started cleaning up the TA today. Pictures after initial work with a scraper. First spraydown is next.

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Discussion Starter #32
Removed the rear TA mount with some big sockets, big washers, and a long bolt. Came out much easier than I was expecting.

1647919
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Replaced the stub axle seals and the upper mount (it was a little easier to get the old one out than the new one in, which seems a little unusual), rebuilt the rear calipers, and filled with Redline MTL.

1650780
 

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What did you use to clean the case? Looks really good.

Bob
 

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Looks fantastic. I would not use MTL, im thinking it’s a GL4 oil and the transaxle needs a GL5 oil because of the final drive in the transaxle assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I used degreaser, then some soda blasting, then some more degreaser. I then sprayed it with a VERY light coat of aluminum rattle can paint.
I have had MTL (the same 2 1/2 quarts of MTL) in my Alfetta for more than 25 years. You are correct that it is GL4.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Wow, that looks fantastic!
 

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I love the transaxle board support. I have struggled with that portion of removal in the past. Will try that idea on the next removal - hopefully not for a long time. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Now that I have the rear main seal replaced and the engine back in position, it's almost time to start hanging the driveline back on the car. Also need to slap some paint on the exhaust system while it is off the car.

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