Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Man, figures-got everything ready to go-arranged for transport to puick up Monday to ship to LA, start car, idles, totally dies. Turn key and nothing....this happened about say, 6 months or so ago (will try to locate that thread).

Batery is 12.8v. door chime works, gotta be ignition problem of some sort. I mean, car idles and dies- gauges do not even come on with key on position 1, you know. Im realy thinking computer. What else could it be??? (sadness....may have to buy son a new GM car out in S Cal and keep the alfa here.....)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,961 Posts
Computer would not stop the car from cranking.

Try to get a good sized wire from the + dist box on the drivers fender and with the car in neutral and key on give the starter solenoid power (12V) directly.

If the car starts, idles and dies, the lights accessories should still have power.
Do the headlights work when "dead"?

If you got "niente" there must be an erratic connection (intermittent break) from the battery to the chassis and or the power consumers. Check that the connections from the "distribution box" where all the big red wires go on the drivers inner fender are "good".

Joe don't be buying GM...get your son a Cinquecento!

Elio
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, car has headlights v bright. But instrument cluster stuff all dead. Why would I try to start the starter with a second wire (I thought once the starter does its job, it wont be a factor with keeping engine running, right?)
 

·
But Mad North-Northwest
Joined
·
11,023 Posts
It's not just the starter given that there's no power to the instruments. Running power to the starter as a test isn't going to prove anything.

Given that both the starter and cluster aren't working but the headlights are, I'd suspect either (a) faulty ignition switch or (b) fault somewhere in the power feed to the ignition switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,928 Posts
It's not just the starter given that there's no power to the instruments. Running power to the starter as a test isn't going to prove anything.

Given that both the starter and cluster aren't working but the headlights are, I'd suspect either (a) faulty ignition switch or (b) fault somewhere in the power feed to the ignition switch.
ditto that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
OK, thanks. Man, not sure if I can get one in time.....may have to fly it in.....

Is there a way to test it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
263 Posts
Joe Papa,

I would definitly try to hot wire or use an aftermarket switch to test the bad ignition switch theory. I just replaced my ignition switch in my '90 Spider and it was a nightmare! You have to take out the center console, the radio, the side bolsters, the knee pads, drop the fuse box out of the way, and remove the lower steering column cover. You then need to stand on your head with a dremel to cut a slot in the security screw so that you can back it out to pull out the switch.

I have attached a couple of pictures to show you the job. The red circle shows the security bolt stud

Best of Luck,
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Whew, man, I JUST put the consoles all back together!!! Dang. If I Hot wire it, will one be able to start the car normally via the ignition switch, as if the transport Co takes it, theyll have to be able to use the car in a normal fashion.....I cant expect them to follow instructions cuz its hot wired, eh?

Im open to this idea.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Joe Papa,

I would definitly try to hot wire or use an aftermarket switch to test the bad ignition switch theory. I just replaced my ignition switch in my '90 Spider and it was a nightmare! You have to take out the center console, the radio, the side bolsters, the knee pads, drop the fuse box out of the way, and remove the lower steering column cover. You then need to stand on your head with a dremel to cut a slot in the security screw so that you can back it out to pull out the switch.

I have attached a couple of pictures to show you the job. The red circle shows the security bolt stud

Best of Luck,
Thanks, Jim. I didnt know all this has to be done. If I buy an aftermarket one, could I wire it in and kinda let it "hang" loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hot wire it! There should be a three wire plug under the dash, one should have 12 volts all the time, one of the other two should send that 12v to the fuse box, the other to the starter. Grab a volt meter, and follow this thread, but use a standard switch instead of the original switch.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/154264-starter-button-instead-key.html
Man, Sam, this seems simple enough! Where did you place the push button switch (I havnt read the entire thread yet....just came back from airport. He's off to LA).......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
If you are trying to get it ready to ship, go by an Advanced/Auto Zone/O'Reilly and get a keyed switch, should be about $20 or so and just wire it in and leave it loose. I had mine attached to the lower underdash mount by the door with a little bracket for a while. The down side would be you would have to use the original key to unlock the steering column, then use the keyed switch to turn car on and start it. But I think that would work for a while. Replacing the switch in the column is a pain in the @$$.

Advance Auto Parts: Electrical Switches - Specialty Starter Switches - Key Style Brass by Dorman - OE Solutions - Part 86913

I think this would work and should be easy enough to wire to at least test it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
That does it, Sam/Jim, Im sold. I'll hot wire it with that switch oon your link....seems simple enough. I actually think the extra step in unlocking the steering wheel then push switch is GOOD.....still forces you to have the key/prevents thief. Yet, allows you to start with push switch. Only question: once you turn the key on to original switch, and unlock steering whee, I take it as long as that key doesnt move, its safe to drive car? AND steering wheel will NOT lock up again during that trip?

Also, what about a push button switch......instead of having 2 keys? Say, you first put in the original key, unlock steering wheel, then just push button vs having to fiddle with a second key? If not, no biggee, just that it would have saved a step to get a second key.......


Thanks,Man!! I'll let yous know what happens....probably tomorrow, unless we get another freezing day in the low 60's.....LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Yup....just called auto zone and they have a push button for $5. Not that price is a big deal. But the button convenience looks very enticing: Hop in car, put in original key to unlock steering wheel, keep it in that position, push button under secret compartment(under left knee padding). Its even almost thief proof, right??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
If you are getting nothing when you turn the key on, you may need the full (cheap) ignition switch (the whole switch has died), if you turn the key and the dash lights (battery lights, etc) come on, then you just need the push button starter (only the starter part of the switch has died).

Did you say you had the dash apart recently? You may want to check the three wire connector to make sure it did not get pulled apart by accident.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
If you are getting nothing when you turn the key on, you may need the full (cheap) ignition switch (the whole switch has died), if you turn the key and the dash lights (battery lights, etc) come on, then you just need the push button starter (only the starter part of the switch has died).

Did you say you had the dash apart recently? You may want to check the three wire connector to make sure it did not get pulled apart by accident.
Thanks for your continued support, Sam. Either Im a genius, or youre a genius, or Im s-t-u-p-i-d, cuz I just went out there to see if that 3 way connector was tight/loose, and ther car started right up!!Must have been that one blk wire I fixed up a few months ago...the connector wasnt perfect fit, so I just pushed it back in as tight as I could. I think I will elec tape it in tight to prevent this crisis again. Geez......almost had to cancel the transport service to S Cal......

Now back to the ac temp controller circuit board issue.....

Thanks, Man!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
263 Posts
Joe Papa,

I don't want to rain on your parade ... but unless the connector was loose or your sure it was the black wire you may still have an 'intermittent' switch problem. That was the way that mine acted. Over time it eventually got so bad that I replaced the switch.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top