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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
So, I decided to use the Eastwood "Rust Converter" over the entire back of the dash. POR doesn't seem to have a similar product, and their "Rust Preventative" needs a lot of prep, including a lot of water washing - can't really do that with a dash! The procedure I used is as follows:
1. Prep with a degreaser (acetone or similar) if there is a lot of grease/oil on the surface. There was none of that on the dash (pics from previous) so I did this lightly.
2. Paint the first coat liberally with a brush. You can spray it, but it made no sense on the dash. I used a VERY cheap, hard, polyester brush, which seemed to be perfect.
3. After about 20 minutes, the rust starts to turn black. At that point, apply a second coat. At this point, the treatment will start turning blue, and thicken as it's being applied.
4. Let it cure for 48 hours, then apply a Protectant/Preventative - I'm going to keep it all Eastwood and use Rust Encapsulator Platinum.

Pics below are once I applied the second coat.
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This pic below is after it has sat for about an hour. You can see that it's starting to set up already. This is the worst part of the dash. It's on the driver's side below the dash vent and the first gauge in the three. As mentioned by Alfaloco, I removed all the speednuts and threw them all away.
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I'll try to post another pic tomorrow, and again before I apply the final Rust Encapsulator. HERE is a link to the Eastwood Rust Converter site. I bought the Quart (non Gel). I only used a very little bit (probably 2/3 Cup) for the entire dash. Brushes on easily - not yucky or gel-ly. I did wear nitrile gloves and full facemask protection, but it was probably overkill. Didn't have a strong smell and it wiped off stuff I spilled it on. This is NOT the POR15 Preventative or the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator - those products are nasty to work with and stick to everything!
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Quick Update - photo below is after 24 hours of curing of the Eastwood Rust Converter. Note that it has turned black and has started to harden - a LOT.
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It needs to sit for another 24 hours, and I'll take a pic then. Then, i'll put on the Rust Encapsulator. It's silver, but it won't show, so I'm not fussed about the color. Still figuring out if I'm going to re-foam the area. Leaning against it, as I don't want another way for moisture to get trapped on the metal, even with the stuff on it. But i'll make that choice closer to the install date.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Applied the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to the dash yesterday. This is a "full face mask and respirator, turn on the fans and open the doors" kind of thing. Went on very easily, however. Used a stiff, polyester brush again, like previous. One thing I noted if you use this - really read the instructions on the can. One of the things mentioned is that you need to clean off the top of the can before you pound it back on the can. Otherwise the can won't seal and the entire can will harden! The Encapsulator (Platinum) is Silver. They have different grades that have different colors. But since i don't have much rust on the car, I thought I'd spend the extra few bucks to get the better stuff. My new motto - "I'm not going to do this twice!"

Anyway, here are pics of the completed dash.

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These are the two worst areas - the area by the driver's side vent and gauge, and the defroster vent on the driver's side. I'm hoping there is enough integrity left in the defrost vent that I can carefully re-install the vent and leave it there...
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I'll post one more pic of the underside when it's fully cured, although I don't expect it to look any different.
 

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I'm glad they mention the lid issue. POR-15 doesn't and of course my first small sample can sealed itself. Some people suggest a piece of Saran Wrap between the lid and can to keep it from sticking.

Looking good!

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 
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