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Discussion Starter #1
Posting here as trans forum has had much of the "silver" mined out of it, and whiskey is gone, hence most of the people too!

Rebuilt my trans 2 yrs ago, and did not seal half casings well, I figure, plus leaking some from top of box, where stick protrudes, at those 3 curved rings. Do not wish to yank just to re seal, so some members (on the other forum) suggested JB weld....rub it on the seam well, and that could stop the leaks. Sugestion was to drain, (clean, I figure), and smear thhat ointment on the seams.

I am sure the front seal is ok, as that was new. I will open up the console/top to view the top area. Any tips will be appreciated, people!

Joe Sr
 

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Prolly not the way I'd go about it, but viable I suppose.
Yamabond might make a better choice as its at least pliable and actually made for sealing that type of joint.

As to the cupped plates on the top of the shift tower, yes, you are supposed to have a rubber bit between the top plate and the bottom of the shift lever. (I saw in the other thread where you were asking if such should be present on you model box)

The shift lever holds down the rubber, the rubber holds the plates snugly together, oil has less chance of leaking past.

Overfilling can cause leakage too via the breather caps on the sides of the tower, which will look almost like the plates are leaking, except the plates are inside the boot and the breathers aren't.

I wanna say I saw a post from Alfar7 that said to not use more than 2qts in a gearbox onnaconna even though the capacity is a smidge more, that 'extra' was enough to make the breathers snot. (defintely something to research before taking my word for it though as he coulda been talking about a different generation box, or race use only, or whatever else that would cause me to misunderstand)
 

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I would first make sure that the leak wasn't just from the shift boots trickling down. Resealing that area and or new boots might eliminate the majority of the leak. The JB weld might be worth a desperate try after several cleanings with acetone, but I seriously doubt it will adhear well enough to the oil impregnated case to seal or stay in place for any length of time. Aviation gasket sealant might be another thing to try.
 

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I'd use a black silicone sealant. Brake Kleen the area, scotch brite the seam, brake Kleen agan, dry and seal quick so no lube gets out. Run a wide bead and let it harden up. Should keep the oil in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wow....there's still plenty of silver left to mine in this town...LOL!! Whiskey too!

Thanks, guys. Yes, the leakage is at least seeping through the seams of the case, as I counted 20 drops overnight, after car sat for 2 days. cant be from the top ONLY. Im sure the top is doing its share while car runs/oil slops around, as that rubber is GONE! Where do I get one? Who stole my rubber?

OK, get new rubber, and try vigorous cleaning, engine cleaner, wash, brake clean, wipe, etc etc. I guess that black silicone.....what do they call it? isnt it same as the red rtv silicone? silicone is silicons, unless they have other additives, then they could cal it still silicone, but its not pure. Whatever, a brand name could help. Man, Ill try antthing before yanking the trans......

Joe Sr
 

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i think it would be hard to do, first you must get a clean surface for any sealent to work, even if you wipe it clean,, there well be some oil seaping out very slowly, and the sealent( jb weld in your case) would take time to dry.. and the oil will be working it's way out durring the drying time..i would just bit the buttit, and remove the tranny and seal it well after you cleaned it out, and removed the halves..sorry to tell you this, after you cealed it well get some black sealent or what ever you want to use, apply it, let it sit for while to let it firm up, then bolt the box back togeathter..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sigh......Thanks, bianch. I know youre a brudda (like the others here, of course) and would not give me the bitter pill to swallow without it being necessary. Im prepared to do it, if I have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Prolly not the way I'd go about it, but viable I suppose.
Yamabond might make a better choice as its at least pliable and actually made for sealing that type of joint.

As to the cupped plates on the top of the shift tower, yes, you are supposed to have a rubber bit between the top plate and the bottom of the shift lever. (I saw in the other thread where you were asking if such should be present on you model box)

The shift lever holds down the rubber, the rubber holds the plates snugly together, oil has less chance of leaking past.

Overfilling can cause leakage too via the breather caps on the sides of the tower, which will look almost like the plates are leaking, except the plates are inside the boot and the breathers aren't.

I wanna say I saw a post from Alfar7 that said to not use more than 2qts in a gearbox onnaconna even though the capacity is a smidge more, that 'extra' was enough to make the breathers snot. (defintely something to research before taking my word for it though as he coulda been talking about a different generation box, or race use only, or whatever else that would cause me to misunderstand)
Thaks, dar. Now, when filling, I just pump away until it oozes from the top hole. Dont know any other way. Manual says 1.65Kg (I think), which, when factoring for density, comes out to be, lets see, d=0.9 or so, so 1.65 /0.9 = well, (lost calculater), MORE than 1.65 Liters. Anyway, thats how I fill. Is that overfilling? I dunno.

I need the rubber bit, regardless. I know I dont have it. Oh, lwhen I reassembled the trans 2 yrs ago, I forgot to put big clamp around the base of the rubber boot, but I did add sealant to that surface. Yes, it could leak from there, but leakage, as I said, drips as car sits for a few days even, ruling out the boot, at least, while siting.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Waaaait a minute: Greg Gordon suggested this on the other forum (which I also posted on)

[Absolutely not, at least not if it was leaking from the usual place which is the seam at the bottom where the left and right halves join together. You can fix this leak, buy draining all the oil out and putting a bead of quick dry JB weld on the seam. Then refill with oil. Don't worry the JQ quick will come right off when it's time to overhaul the transaxle.] end greg's post.

So, thered be no oil left to seep through. I could drain, and let drip overnight, then plug, refill with paint thinner, drain that, let drip another night or even 2, then hey, repeat again, what the heck, more thinner, drain, etc. Once that is done, most oil should be out of the seams. Test by leaving it drip until no more drips of oil/thinner/etc. Clean well, then smear sealant. Could be a shot, huh?
 

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here's a long shot.. drain the box.. pour in paint thinner.. rock the car a lot so get all the oil out.. even spin the motor,plugs out, the rear end in the air with it in some gear to get the oil off the gears them self.. drain repeate.. the get some sealent that you can pour just a little into the box to cover the mateing flanges,, aftre you poured some in,drain the box of any extrea sealent.. let dry. for at least 2 days... this would coat the bottom of the box in some kind of sealent.. then refill the box with oil
 

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Waaaait a minute: Greg Gordon suggested this on the other forum
If that's directed at me, I never said it was wrong, just not how I'd do it ;)

Were it me and it was maddening enough to try and fix, but not wanting to pull the box, I'd likely try to at least loosen the cover fixtures, then once drained, clean, and dry, get goop in the ever so slightly opened seam and re~tighten the cover. Then the sealant woud be 'in' not 'on' making for much higher odds that it would be successful.

Prolly more frustrating going about it that way due to access, but I don't consider 20 drops in 48 hours to be life threatening, just a bit messy :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If that's directed at me, I never said it was wrong, just not how I'd do it ;)

Were it me and it was maddening enough to try and fix, but not wanting to pull the box, I'd likely try to at least loosen the cover fixtures, then once drained, clean, and dry, get goop in the ever so slightly opened seam and re~tighten the cover. Then the sealant woud be 'in' not 'on' making for much higher odds that it would be successful.

Prolly more frustrating going about it that way due to access, but I don't consider 20 drops in 48 hours to be life threatening, just a bit messy :D
No, dar, what I meant with Greg was what I printed in brackets following that sentence [], you see it on my post? It was the idea he suggested along with the neat idea of the JB Weld.

Yeah, I know what youre suggesting.....Ive done that with similar (lawnmower engine....LOL), but an idea for this, still.
 

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OK, what does this mean , you like JB or not? Dont be afraid to post your opinion.......
IMO, the JB Weld (or any other product) smeared on the outside of the joint might help. It won't hurt (meaning it is not irreversable) and it is thus worth trying. Just don't get your hopes up too high.
 
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