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Wow - no one here has ever bought the reproduction Burman box case from one of the Europeam suppliers? No one?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
OK - I'll answer my own post. I bought the above. It was good construction, but not without some issues to resolve.

First, expect to spend at least $100 (I spent $200) to get the bushing fitted to the case and honed for the rocker shaft. This is precise work, but time consuming at the machine shop since it is in an awkward placement in the case and there is so much bushing to mill off (.06in on mine).

Second, the threaded holes at the top of the case weren't tapped deeply enough. Not a big deal to fix, but the thread is an oddball (M8x1.5) and won't likely be in your tap set. So there's another $20 to get the tap.

Lastly, the top cover required a bit of reaming around the bolt holes to get the cover to line up to the case correctly so that the rocker shaft didn't bind where it pokes through the top cover.

But, the job ultimately turned out nice and the Burman action is nice and smooth.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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You’re making me kind of glad I sprung for the Alfaholics box...
 

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I think this is the same oem-type case Alfaholics offers. I think they just resell it. Though maybe they put the bushing in for you? Not sure.

But Alfaholics also offers the billet case which is something they designed and have manufactured themselves. Maybe that’s what you got? If that comes with the bushing in it and pre-honed, then that is the better choice for sure. I spent $650 getting mine ready for assembly. The billet box is about $750 if mem serves and then you have billet alloy strength to boot. Certainly worth the extra $100.
 

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Sorry I missed your original post ... could have saved you some effort. I've assembled 3 or 4 of the cast cases and two of the billet ones. For racing or track cars, the billet case is the way to go. It's much stronger and is machined accurately. Just replace the original casting and set the clearances.

The holes for the alignment bolts are off location by 0.5 mm on the cast case. I assemble the top cover with the other screws and position it so the pitman shaft turns freely, then ream the holes for the alignment bolts to 9.0 mm and use two of the shoulder bolts used to align the starter. BTW, the fasteners are not metric. The box was made in England and the fasteners are 5/16-18.

-jim
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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But Alfaholics also offers the billet case which is something they designed and have manufactured themselves. Maybe that’s what you got? If that comes with the bushing in it and pre-honed, then that is the better choice for sure. I spent $650 getting mine ready for assembly. The billet box is about $750 if mem serves and then you have billet alloy strength to boot. Certainly worth the extra $100.
Yes, the Alfaholics billet box is what I got. It's not cheap but very nice.

The bearing is oiled bronze and I inserted it myself with a press. My machine shop guy honed it out for $40: it really did not need much material removed, just a skim. Then there's a standard oil seal that presses in the bottom.
 

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The billet box is about $750 if mem serves
the billet is actually about $900 (ex tax)
the alloy one $540 (ex tax)

I can imagine the alloy one is fine for road use, but disappointing to hear that holes are off measurement etc and you have to then re-machine things to correct their stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah the biggest issue was the bushing. It wasn’t even close. otherwise, like Gubi, I would have just pressed it in myself and had a machine shop hone it for ~$50. But they had to take some off the outside of the bushing just to get it in the case, then a bunch more time taking .06 off the interior of it.

So all this to say it’s a workable case and seems well made, but you’ll have to put some extra work into it so just be ready for that. Sounds like 4sfed has experienced the same.
 

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The holes for the alignment bolts are off location by 0.5 mm on the cast case. I assemble the top cover with the other screws and position it so the pitman shaft turns freely, then ream the holes for the alignment bolts to 9.0 mm and use two of the shoulder bolts used to align the starter. BTW, the fasteners are not metric. The box was made in England and the fasteners are 5/16-18.
Jim: I didn't get the bit about reaming the holes and using a starter shoulder bolt
1) If the holes are .5mm out of position, how does reaming them out and using a shoulder bolt fix the offset?
2) If the casting holes are tapped 5/16-18, and the starter bolts are 8 mm, how do they thread in?
 

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The body of the shoulder bolts are 9 mm diameter, allowing the holes in the aluminum casting and cover to be enlarged, but still provide alignment with a close fit. These two fasteners are bolts ... retained by nuts ... not screwed into the casting.

Sorry for the confusion.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Here's the Alfaholics billet box waiting to go back in. I redid it a few months ago but it wasn't quite right due to some worn internals and mistakes on my part. Now I think I'm pretty much an expert on rebuilding these things :LOL:
1613641
 

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Do you mean that you painted the case? If so, is billet aluminum that different a color than cast aluminum? And what shade of silver corrects the look?
The entire part was painted black when the cars were new. The paint always seemed to stick to the steel parts and disappear from the aluminum body. When I removed the box from my car, there was black paint on the side facing out.

Most of us have never seen a new steering box or one that has all of the paint left on it. So, when we restore the boxes, the aluminum body doesn't get painted.

The Alfa Romeo Arese book shows a steering box in a assembly worker's hands. He is in the process of installing it on a RHD car.

1613668
 

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Probably a little over the top, but only $65 to polish my Alfaholics box. I told him he did not need to worry about the side of box that mounts on fender, but that got polished too. He charged a lot more for all the other pieces for the car, but he did a great job. Having a problem getting polishing compound out of door lock cylinders, but that was my fault.

I had no problem installing the bronze bushing. I put it in the freezer overnight and tapped in the next morning.
 

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