750 Sprints, Spider, 101 Sprint, Spider & Ti, 105 Sprint GT, 105 Juniors, others
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5,157 Posts
Everyone has their own personal preference on how to do things, I totally agree with Uncle Gordon on first checking that the cam cover is FLAT - I have a chunk of marble countertop in my workshop from a kitchen sink installation and use it as a flat rubbing surface for large items like cam covers. A dab of valve grinding paste or Autosol aluminium polishing paste will soon show you high or low spots on the cover. When it's absolutely flat & washed spotlessly clean again, I glue the new cam cover gaskets to the cam cover using ordinary yellow contact adhesive. I then place the cover flat on my marble slab again (opposite side to the side I sanded on) and add weight over the top & leave overnight for the adhesive to fully cure. I then run a bead of contact all around the inside edge of the gasket, wiped off with my finger - this waterproofs or more correctly oil-proofs the edge of the gasket & even the old cork gaskets never sweated after doing this.
Gasket + cover are then fitted dry to the head & pulled down with a home made tool & I don't have leaks as a rule, Fiber washers at the front & middle & aluminium ones at the back, although some of my cars have 6 fiber washers.
My can cover nut tool is a length of old flat bar around 180mm with a 14mm bolt welded to it & I pull it down sympathetically
Aye
Greig
Gasket + cover are then fitted dry to the head & pulled down with a home made tool & I don't have leaks as a rule, Fiber washers at the front & middle & aluminium ones at the back, although some of my cars have 6 fiber washers.
My can cover nut tool is a length of old flat bar around 180mm with a 14mm bolt welded to it & I pull it down sympathetically
Aye
Greig