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Discussion Starter #1
my giulia sprint has always breath some oil from the oil filler washing the engine top (btw: is there any way to solve this?) but yesterday I found that most of the top of the engine was covered with oil and the surroundings of the engine specially near the back and in the exhaust side, but also in the front.

I see the camshaft cover gasket protruding further near the firewall zone, could it be caused by too much pressure inside the engine that blows the oil or the nut over the camshaft cover not too fastened?

are the problems related? : oil spread from the oil filler and from the camshaft cover gasket?

thanks in advance
 

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Engine crankcase ventilation

Hello Jose,
As these engines get more miles on them they do suffer more blowby past pistons and valve guides. Usually this is taken care of by the breather at the back of the block. If it becomes plugged, or closed off, in any way, it is possible to blow out the cam cover gasket. There are several solutions. A front breather can be added by using the GTA style oil filler cap, or a later style cam cover can be used that features the upper right corner breather. It may be that the cam cover gasket is tired and just needs replacement. If so it should be sealed to the cover, not the head, with an available gasket sealer, (I use RTV blue for ease of future replacement) and the head surface needs to be perfectly oil free. Excessive tightening of the cam cover hold down bolts can result in a warped cover (leaky) or a cracked cover. If, with a new gasket properly installed, and good crankcase ventalation, the problem still exists, it may be time for engine work or at least a diagnosis of where all that pressure is coming from.

:DGordon Raymond
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have checked and found that the end of the back breather is almost blocked by the block itself, I don't know why this had happen, maybe I will cut half an inch so it wont be obstructed, what you suggest?

I hope that would reduce the oil all over the engine block, but what about the oil sprayed from the oil filler...?

thank you Gordon, and keep the good advice coming...
 

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This is a guess, Jose, but three things happen to the fillers over time. First, the fingers at the bottom lip become bent downward so the cap is never tight when it stops turning. Second, the rubber seal in the top hardens, falls out, or cracks with age. And third, the brass disc above the rubber seal loses its ability to press the rubber down, due to rubber shrinkage, or the disc being dented or bent. A new oil cap is the easy fix though tired ones can be rebuilt easily enough. Don't forget, you will still probably have to replace the cam cover gasket. With 1600 engines without the two small bolts through the front of the cam cover and head, the gaskets often leak at the front, causing the appearance of a leak from the filler. Gordon Raymond
 

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Discussion Starter #5
torque on cam cover nuts

is there a value to the amount of torque required to fasten the top cam cover nuts?

I can't find any value in any the books I have!
 

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Has the oil vapor separator been cleaned? If it's all gunked up inside the engine will push oil through the seal/s of least resistance; even new ones. For cam cover gaskets, my preference is Permatex #2, shellac based though never hardens. Some have used silicone but it's amazing how much of that crap collects on the oil pump pick-up screen. Vapor separators can be cleaned by soaking in a de-greasing agent. I use WalMart's 'Purple Power' (NFI). It's strong enough to remove paint and your hyde so rubber gloves are a must.
 

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A clogged oil vapor separator is not the problem, since a Giulia Sprint does not have one.
 

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Believe it or not there was a thin metal plate that someone from Alfa invented to stop oil vapor from exiting properly from the engine. It might have something to do with California emissions and transitioning from the 101 engine to the 105 which is vented slightly differently. Anyway I pulled the road draft tube off the back of a 1966 Veloce engine (not from CA) to discover this little thin blocking plate cut to the perfect symmetry of the two bolt attachment that was slipped in while the engine was in the car by slotting the two holes to drop it in place. Drove me crazy trying to figure out the source. With this plate in place there is no where for the crankcase to vent off any pressure except the cam cover gasket, the weakest link in the system. Also another source is nature. If the engine has been sitting around waiting for you to finish the body work or you haven't driven it in awhile, wasps love to build nests in this nice place just as spiders love to build them in your outdoor gas grille orfices. Mud dabbers or paper wasps can be very sneeky. Its a real pain in the *** to pull this off but I am afraid you will have to. I use to hang the plate on my workbench wall as a reminder. Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #11
washers on cam cover

should I use the metal washers for the cam cover? I don´t have any.

are they stock? and in what case you suggest to use them?

btw: thanks for the torque value!

I have retorqued the head, and also the cam cover (using 15 lb-ft oops) and with only a short drive I see more oil bathing the back of the engine near the exhaust, and I think some of the oil come from the half moon rubber.....there is where I suppose that the metal washers would be useful/necesary but want some advice from you wise alfisti.
 

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The correct washers are four or five fiber with one or two aluminum. The aluminum are usually in the middle. The purpose is electrical. It was found the fiber washers could electrically insulate the cam cover from the rest of the engine, and with sufficient gasoline vapor in the blow by under the cover, if a plug wire shorted to the cam cover, cause an internal explosion inside the engine. Not good.
Your leak is likely the half moon rubber seals at the back. They do dry out and shrink with heat and age. Did you check the cover gasket surface to be sure it is flat? The covers can get warped, though they usually crack, if too much torque is used on the cover hold down bolts.
Gordon Raymond
 
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