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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen on this forum, any number of photos in which the cam covers on spiders have been coated or anodized. If I remember correctly, they are mostly dark grey or black which is what leads me to believe they may be anodized. Can someone tell me if they are in fact anodized and is there anything I should know about having mine anodized if this is what i have seen? A local company offered to anodize mine for less than $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Makes sense as well. I found a write up on the forum about polishing the cover. Lots and lots of work but what the heck, after 6 months whats another weekend? I think the polished cover looks even better than the paint. I am somewhat surprised that no body has anodized the cover. It can be done fairly easily, adds less than 1Mil of cover and would last forever. The color would be something between grey and black (charcoal?) If I had an extra cover I might have it done just to see the result. My actual quote was $40 (but that was sight unseen). Even if the final cost were $75 it would be worth it.
 

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I was thinking that anodizing might be an interesting option. I have both polished and powder coated covers and I will tell you this: I would never have another polished cover. I am just too lazy to keep it up. I powder coated the covers with a wrinkle finish and then polished out the "Alfa Romeo" script. IMO it looks great and is zero maintanance.

I think the only drawback to the anodizing is that any flaws in surface of the cover will be visable. Conversly, powdercoating can hide a myriad of flaws.

Do it and report back!
 

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I would be concerned about getting a consistent finish, in which the color was evenly distributed, and I 've never really seen anything that's had a fine polish and then anodized afterwards. If your plater can show you some samples of larger pieces that look good to you, I'd say give it a shot. It's something different, might look great, and if it doesn't work out you'll have a nice surface for powder-coating.

Makes sense as well. I found a write up on the forum about polishing the cover. Lots and lots of work but what the heck, after 6 months whats another weekend? I think the polished cover looks even better than the paint. I am somewhat surprised that no body has anodized the cover. It can be done fairly easily, adds less than 1Mil of cover and would last forever. The color would be something between grey and black (charcoal?) If I had an extra cover I might have it done just to see the result. My actual quote was $40 (but that was sight unseen). Even if the final cost were $75 it would be worth it.
 

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Problem

Speaking of cam covers, mines polished and the other day I accidentally spilt a tiny bit of battery acid on it.
Those dots of acid turned to sort of white/grey rough spots.
Any suggestions for cleaning them up apart from metal polish?
Cheers
Dufus.
 

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Powdercoat it! Seriously, my polished cover tarnished when I stared at it too long. I have not tried it but I am wondering if polishing it, washing it well with some kind of nuetralizer and then clearcoat powder coat would do the job. Perhaps John M. could chime in here.

- Rich D.
 

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Powdercoat it! Seriously, my polished cover tarnished when I stared at it too long. I have not tried it but I am wondering if polishing it, washing it well with some kind of nuetralizer and then clearcoat powder coat would do the job. Perhaps John M. could chime in here.

- Rich D.
Clear anodizing is some sough stuff. I anodized a barefoot bar for my ski boat and never had a corosion after that even when stored in a damp boat between weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I'll bite. I think I will polish the cover until I'm **** sick of polishing. If I'm happy with it at that point on it goes. If not I should at least have a smooth enough surface so that the anodization should look good. I would think that besides the Alfa script I would want to polish the holes were the hold down bolts pass through. Don't the aluminum shims in the rear two holes provide grounding? Depending upon the smoothness of the surface I would think that the gasket should seal against the lip especially with some gasket cemet (I just bought a reusable gasket). Interestingly, my old gasket came off in one peice and is hard as a rock. Just shows what 17 years without running an engine will do to a gasket.
 

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I think I will polish the cover until I'm **** sick of polishing . . . If not I should at least have a smooth enough surface so that the anodization should look good.
when they are clean, polished cam covers look SOOOO nice. if you want a clear or translucent anodize, you will need a nice uniform finish on the surface anyway. so, if you do both : polish and clear anodize, you will have sparkly beauty and easy clean up !


Don't the aluminum shims in the rear two holes provide grounding?
if your cam cover does not have the two small bolts all the way in front, then yes, the aluminum shims do provide grounding.
 

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Hate to be a turd floating in the punchbowl-

On my 86 Grad, the cam cover provides a ground path for a few electrical components. Anodize finishes are not conductive. Make sure you don't anodize plate the areas where any electrical grounds are made, otherwise you may have a great looking engine bay with lots of electrical grounding problems.
 

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Turd...... punchbowl........

Now why can I imagine that with very little difficulty at all?

I've never seen an anodized finish yet that truly shined, regardless of the prep under it.

They all look just a bit milky to me. :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
First let me address the cam cover. I am a good 6 hours into the polishing and it is starting to look real nice. Clear anodization-- didn't even know it exsited but that sounds like a winner!. My 71 has no components that attach to or ground through the cover as far as I can tell. I would still repolish the areas I discussed above.

As for my car sitting 17 years. I am the 3rd owner. The second owner is a friend of mine here in San Antonio. It was his everyday driver until he met his current wife. They went out in it on a date, got stranded and she never road in it again. No AC in south Texas-- get the picture? They married and started a business. He always intended to get back to the car but never did. It was stored at his sons auto repair shop indoors all thoses years. It had always been maintained by the dealer and most items are original equipment. It has no rust but 17 years of storage have taken their toll on everything else. Shocks, springs, brake lines, calipers, gas tank, h20 pump exhaust system, fuel pump and many electrical connections. She is running but I am in the middle of the brake rebuild, next week it is the motor mounts and then the exhaust system. I hope to have the exhaust shop install the new springs at the same time as they build the exhaust system. I thought I had stolen it for $2500 but with all I have put into it that was maybe about right. I am having fun but never throught I would have this many things to replace.
 

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Sounds like a nice find. As for what you paid, anytime you get a rust-free chassis to work with, I think that's worth more than you can put an absolute dollar value on. Once rust sets in where you can see it, who knows what's going on elsewhere, especially on an Alfa? I finally just bought my first "California" Spider, after having battled with nothing but damaged Southeastern cars for a few decades, and while I got a great deal, I'll never again buy another Alfa with rust if I can help myself. A clean car is always worth a premium price in my book.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am about 7-8 hours into the polishing job. OMG can polish cause brain damage or do you need to be damaged to start with? It is looking very nice and I will post a picture but I think I have at least another 2 hours of work to go. I ground off all the casting marks. It is a shame but there appear to be imperfections in the metal that will never polish out. I don't think they will photograph, but they look like puddles in the metal. I started with 150 grain on an ORB then by hand, 220 then 320 wet dry then 400 then 600. Then 3 grades of polish on a new 6" wheel and a 4 inch wheel on a drill to get into the corners. I think I must be crazy. I couldn't anodize this now if if my life depended on it. Way to much work to cover up! I think a clear coat is in order. Any suggestions what can hold up to the heat?
 

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High gloss clear powdercoat will bring it and take the heat.

Mine from last Saturday after getting a gloss black then a high gloss clear put on it. (hadn't even pulled the fiberglass tape or any of the hole blocking stuff off yet)
 

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