[horsewidower]

It's been an interesting couple of days chasing the CL "13 164."

In the end I salvaged the operation by picking up this 164LS. Running when parked, still with valid registration sticker, but stuck in neutral, black beauty. It is an automatic, which might make it a better commuter than my 164s, and is supposed to have working AC. Time will tell.

So...we start another journey.

By the way, the trucker that was supposed to haul it refused. Couldn't properly attach to it. And, I wouldn't let him attach to the suspension. I had to go back with one of our trailers, and it barely fit. The rear tow hook attachment points are laughably inadequate. I now know why these poor things get tow hooks thrown over the suspension pieces. I actually attached the hold down strap to the muffler hanger, and gingerly attached another to the official hold down attachment...the one that wasn't already split. I'll have to faceplate some metal to the official hold down points. But, let's get it roadworthy first.

 

[therealguy419]

That is a nice looking 164!! I'm guessing 95?

 

[goats]

Not sure what the issue is. There are two stout hook holes in front to pull car into trailer. Once on then use wheel straps to secure it. Rear tow attach is light I agree but front is stout

 

[horsewidower]

Fronts were fine, rears abysmal. Perhaps they don't all have wheel straps...? The guy just flat walked off.

 

[kcabpilot]

"abysmal" for what? For cripes sake all that rear hook is for is to winch the thing up onto a trailer or keep the back end down if some dufus goes zero G over a whoo-de-doo. I mean it's not supposed to be a Jate ring for a helo extraction.

 

[Alfisto Steve]

I think all the right rear non-tow hook was for was the factory assembly line trail lanyard. There are two more mini hooks in center rear of trunk floor for trailer towing safety chains but not real strong either. Wheel strap harnesses with rear ward pulling chains to roll back bed are the way to strap down rear of a 164 and roll-back winch cables on front sub-frame tow hooks.
.

 

[donliznev]

Couldn't properly attach to it.

As KCABPILOT says we merely want to secure to a flatbed or trailer and not do barrel rolls at the speed of sound.

I have loaded many times and never a problem when I ask the operator to use the hooks.

The hooks were also used to winch the car on forwards or rearwards without any problem.

 

[jc96]

I've driven truck, many friends drive truck. If the driver didn't feel it was in "ALL's" best interests safely securing the car to whatever he had for a trailer, without damaging anything, I respect that. This is assuming, it was a company not dedicated to hauling cars.

That's a nice looking 164. Ciao, chris

 

[Michael Smith]

All cars shipped by sea have tie down locations. The cars are locked down so the suspension doesn't move. I know BMW used shipping blocks inserted into the coil springs to reduce the amount of force required to tie the vehicle down while at sea.

Now maybe these are removed upon import but I don't think so.

There should be two each front and rear.

 

[horsewidower]

dufus goes zero G over a whoo-de-doo.

I'd be up for that. :wink2:

 

[kcabpilot]

If the rear hook is only for assembly line purposes I can't imagine why they would put a removable cover over it. The looks may be deceiving, I would have never guessed the rear jack point was back on that same section if I hadn't read the manual. I think it's a stronger point than you might think just by looking at it.

 

[kcabpilot]

I'd be up for that. :wink2:

Speaking of zero-G and straying a bit off topic but you really need to watch this music video by a band called Ok Go. They filmed the whole thing in zero-G on a Russian Airliner and it is mind blowing.

Upside Down and Inside Out

 

[horsewidower]

If the rear hook is only for assembly line purposes I can't imagine why they would put a removable cover over it. The looks may be deceiving, I would have never guessed the rear jack point was back on that same section if I hadn't read the manual. I think it's a stronger point than you might think just by looking at it.

Ah, the scales have fallen...we are talking about different attachment points. Good enough

I am still a raw recruit when it comes to 164, the fault is mine. Curious that Rich, a decades experienced Alfa mechanic, didn't mention it.

Nonetheless, all is good, the car made it safely home.

 

[horsewidower]

Maybe the prior owner had a problem because the battery had 1.8 volts when I tested it.

For grins I stuck a little battery in, just to see if all the interior items worked. It wouldn't really start it without the additional jump from the charger. I'm not hearing a fuel pump hum at key on, which I can generally hear on the S.

Real diagnosis will start upon completion of a couple of items on the S, and the GTV.

I'd tell you when I want it up and running, but you know how well I do with those targets.

Bob

 

[goats]

24 v car doesn't energize fuel pump until crank sensor signal seen by motronic

 

[Richard2]

Neither do 12V

 

[Alfisto Steve]

Unless somebody has jumpered the wiring. I bought Sara's 164B years ago and somebody had run a new hot when key on wire all the way from that metal clip in fuse panel for rear cigar lighter. They went under the rug and seats and into the trunk directly to fuel pump wiring connector.

There wasn't anything wrong with the fuel pump relay or system wiring that I could find.

If your S fuel pump runs when the key is turned on somebody has jumpered fuel pump (FP) relay wiring.

If you need to check fuel pressure or fuel flow you can remove FP relay on top radiator support and jumper pin sockets 30 and 87 pink and pink-wires to make LS pump run with key on and motor not running.

 

[horsewidower]

Thank you, gentlemen.

It needs the normal fuel, air, spark, compression tests. I appreciate the directions on how to jumper the fuel pump.

I'll also look around for how to check cam timing, I don't know the history of belt replacement on the engine.

Bob

 

[Alfisto Steve]

You find checking 24v cam timing is not child's play. You need to remove intake, coil packs, valve covers, etc...

Set of cam timing dies really helpful, too.

Weighted arm and adapter also nice to have to tension a new belt correctly.

Lots of show and tell threads w/pics on BB.

 

[horsewidower]

Picked up a set of the Technical Bulletins for the car from a seller here. Also picked up a set of uncracked fog lamps...all the way from Oz.

But, best of all...picked up a new battery and after a couple of cranks it coughed. A couple more and it fired and settled into an idle!!!

Which was followed with the overwhelming smell of fuel. So shut it down. Jumped out and looked under the hood and observed a pinhole leak in the fuel line. I'll stop by and get some fuel injection fuel line tomorrow.

If it's not raining tomorrow, I might get a chance to see if it'll drive around. I'm thrilled. :grin2: