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I have had my 164 for 7 years now, and it has sat in my garage for the past 3. (All it really needed was a water pump, but I was too lazy to change it!). I am now resurrecting it and replacing the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, plugs etc. I figured that since I am in this mood, I might as well change all I can now. What bushings do you guys recommend I change? (I am sure some of them must be brittle by now. I will definitely be staying away from poly!)
Thanks guys!
 

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I have had my 164 for 7 years now, and it has sat in my garage for the past 3. (All it really needed was a water pump, but I was too lazy to change it!). I am now resurrecting it and replacing the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, plugs etc. I figured that since I am in this mood, I might as well change all I can now. What bushings do you guys recommend I change? (I am sure some of them must be brittle by now. I will definitely be staying away from poly!)
Thanks guys!
The one poly bushing not to stay away from is small one in end of dog bone upper motor mount at mounting point on rear head. Believe me if that original rubber one is worn out you don't even want to try and replace it with OEM "silent block" rubber one unless you have proper installation tool and dry ice or liquid nitrogen to freeze it before you try to install it.

I just tried after have one in freezer for long time and it still wouldn't go all the way in before it started to mushroom metal liner so now I have to burn or cut it out and put in poly one.

I suggest you get engine work done such as water pump and timing belt first and get engine running before tackling suspension bushings but do engine poly bushing when timing belt off as you will need to cut old one out and best to do it before new belt in place.
 

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The lower A arm bushings are basically the only rubber in the front suspension besides the upper strut mount and the swaybar. These are the two that if you use poly will make for a very firm ride, excellent for handling, not so good for a luxurious ride or quiet cabin. The large one at the rear in the aluminum bracket is made to give quite a bit when you hit a bump, the poly just doesn't give much at all. That bushing has a large gap built into the center of it, with a plastic ring insert in that space, the poly is solid poly. The front bushing doesn't give much at all, in rubber or poly, which is why I think you could use poly for the front and OEM for the rear, but others may argue that that is not a good idea. Visualize the arm when you hit a bump, the arm wants to pivot back about the front bushing and the rear of the arm wants to move toward the center of the car, stop the arm from rotating and you get a much more firm "hit" when you experience a pothole, etc. The poly in the rear position makes the whole arm virtually rigidly mounted (though still allowing up and down, of course), which means your alignment stays true no matter what crazy stunt you are pulling, but the luxury is gone. Love/hate tradeoff.
Charles
 

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Boy this topic sounds very familiar hhhhmmmm
see tread topic Front A arm POLY
You will get all the info needed to make a smart
choice for your driving needs
Freddy
 

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I have had my 164 for 7 years now, and it has sat in my garage for the past 3. (All it really needed was a water pump, but I was too lazy to change it!). I am now resurrecting it and replacing the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, plugs etc. I figured that since I am in this mood, I might as well change all I can now. What bushings do you guys recommend I change? (I am sure some of them must be brittle by now. I will definitely be staying away from poly!)
Thanks guys!
Check all mounts, most likely rear upper and small upper will need replacing. Poly is OK for small like Steve says, OEM is better for big one but I also have Poly for that as well.

Check control arm bushings, mainly the fronts are the ones that go. If you see tears in them or cracking you might want to replace them.

Rear: trailing arm bushing at hub is one that goes. Trailing arm at body needs to be checked as well. I can supply the whole arm with bushing or just the bushing alone.

Sway bar you can do all poly if you want, no real movement there as far as it effecting the ride comfort. Or OEM is just fine as well.

Jason
 

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Does this mean there is no real need to replace the ball joints on the adjustable rear links and the rubber bushings in the non-adjustable rear links?

I'm replacing everything else now that the car (95 LS) has hit 100k miles, including bushings in the trailing arms.

But what about the wear items in the lateral links?

Thanks,
Rex
 

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Does this mean there is no real need to replace the ball joints on the adjustable rear links and the rubber bushings in the non-adjustable rear links?

I'm replacing everything else now that the car (95 LS) has hit 100k miles, including bushings in the trailing arms.

But what about the wear items in the lateral links?

Thanks,
Rex
Probably not and I have not seen listing for rubber bushings in fixed length links. I have a set of poly bushings for them but never bothered to install them.

I haven't ever seen any play in adjustable rod ends on rear links either but part numbers are 60810409 outer and 6081406 inner.
 

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Thanks Steve. Jason has the ball joints at a bit less then $70 per. Looks like you would need to replace the fixed link in its entirety.

Glad I don't need to.

Rex
 

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Does poly bushes wear quickly when they get some oil from engine or steering?
Or are the oil resistant?

Rubber bushes just softens and melts...
 

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Does poly bushes wear quickly when they get some oil from engine or steering?
Or are the oil resistant?

Rubber bushes just softens and melts...
They seem to hold up pretty good.
 
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