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A quick sanity check here - is there a correct orientation to the main nut? In other words from this view is it possible to have it 180° out or does it not matter?

IMG_6634.jpg
 

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And... maybe this is obvious but I don’t see a lot of mention of using thread sealant. it seems to me that since every hole on the front and back of the box is tapped through to the interior there is a high likelihood of oil leaking through the thread without sealant.

IMG_6638.jpg IMG_6639.jpg
 

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I just finished rebuilding my Burman box. It felt nice and smooth until I tightened down the end cover, now it feels very jumpy or notchy, almost like there is too much pressure on the ball bearings. Any one know what I can do to fix this? Add a few more shims to the end cover? If so, where could I buy more shims? I'm new to this, so any help is appreciated!
 

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I just finished rebuilding my Burman box. It felt nice and smooth until I tightened down the end cover, now it feels very jumpy or notchy, almost like there is too much pressure on the ball bearings. Any one know what I can do to fix this? Add a few more shims to the end cover? If so, where could I buy more shims? I'm new to this, so any help is appreciated!
I found the same. Does it feel that way when rotating by hand? Can it be rotated by hand?
 

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Yes, it will take a shim or two to back the pressure off the new ballbearings. I may have a couple although the condition is not perfect. I'll check. If worse comes to worse you could make some out of shim stock. It may only take a .002 to get it right and that's thin enough to work with.
 

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Yes, it can be rotated by hand, but definitely does not feel smooth. Thanks so much for the confirmation regarding the additional shims, I'll try finding a few extras, and if not, make my own (I didn't know you could do that!).
 

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It has been a few years since I rebuilt the steering box in my 1974 GTV, but im pretty sure I put new ball bearings in mine from the local bike shop. That combined with a mixture of moly grease and gear oil...and new seals...doing fine ever since.
 

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I finally got my box back together, but now it seems to be leaking quite profusely where the worm gear passes through the top cover (I have a '74). Is there a seal or something that I missed here?

On a related note, I had to add more shims (that I didn't have) to loosen up the action a bit. Since the shims seems to be NLA, I tried .005 shims from a big Healey 100-6, and they were incredibly close. The bolt pattern was an 1/8" wider, so I just had to file out the bolt holes a little bit.
 

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I finally got my box back together, but now it seems to be leaking quite profusely where the worm gear passes through the top cover (I have a '74). Is there a seal or something that I missed here?.....
On my Burman box there was a paper gasket between the top cover and the housing.....although the parts manual does not show it in their graphic.
 

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is there an adjustment on the box? I just had mine rebuilt and it is in the car but seems a little tight? I know it doesn't have a power steering component and I am a little senior spoiled with newer cars but just don't remember it being so snug back when I had a new one in 1970.
 

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Yes there is an adjustment on top of the box, looks like a bolt with locknut. Might need to loosen that a half turn.
 

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If you have an adjustment on top, that’s a ZF steering box, not a Burman. ZF adjustment is covered in one of the tech bulletins from alfa around 1985?? Ish??
 

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Burman top bearing race

Hello

Does anyone know if the upper race is available new?

Checked Classic Alfa and Alfaholics. This box is from my 67 Super. I have a spare 71 GTV box lying around but I hate to split that one up for parts.

regards Daron
 

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I've never seen any of the Alfa parts retailer offer any inner parts for the Burman box. Burman itself has been out of business for many years.

Perhaps these parts are common with some of their other steering boxes - Jaguar, Morgan and Triumph used them among others but yo are on your own. But enough of these boxes have broken that original used parts should be available..,. place a WANTED thread in the classified section.

Some people have se engineered the box to fit a standard bearing at the front end. You mention top bearing - do you actually mean the steering column end?
 

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AFRA has them both

They do have them at $200...

So I dug my 1750 box and it the housing is cracked badly. Not sure if due to usage or rough disassembly and this came with very rough parts car. Fortunately the bearing race is good! Having a parts car has paid off so many times!

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This is a great thread: I'm redoing my Burman box now and it's been very useful.

One thing I'm thinking about: is there an easy way to get the steering wheel properly centered when I'm putting everything together? I marked the pitman arm so I'll be able to put that on the same way, but I'll need to get the splines for both the u-joint and the steering shaft lined up correctly.

I'm thinking I'll try to get the wheels as straight as possible using my toe plates & the rear wheels as the reference before installing the shaft(s) but I'm wondering if there's a different or simpler way I'm missing.
 
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