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I am working on the tapered bearing replacement and I could not see the mark that Quadrifolio was speaking of, but I realized the edge of the tapered bearing cannot exceed the lip of the ball bearing curve. I measured from the lip of the ball bearing curve to the end of the shaft and it was 8mm. On top of that, I took the pictures from above and loaded them into photoshop and measured the width and length of the cylinder at the end. Quadrifolio stated the width is 15.88mm so I was able to ratio out the length of the cylinder. Using both pictures, I came up with 7.9 and 8.1mm - good enough for me. I am having the machine shop cut it to 15.88 wide and 8mm deep. I will let you know how it goes. The next step will be to thin out the washer.
 

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I've had my casing welded and have started reassembling now. But I've hit a snag. When I dismantled it I was struggling to get the steering shaft out of the sleeve. As I took the box to pieces it came apart and I managed to wind out the main nut and took the whole shooting match out whilst the column was still in the outer sleeve.

But I now can't get it back together using the method described, a
A because my upper bearing is still in the housing and
B because the shaft is still in the outer sleeve of the column.

I can't get the thirteen bearings into the upper race whilst it's in the casing.

Main question is why won't the steering column come apart?. I'm reluctant to use force for fear of breaking something. The exploded diagram in the Autobooks manual is not showing the later type of column. Mine is from a 2000GTV, I believe it's different in that it has a steering lock. Is there something else preventing it coming out?

Is it an absolute necessity to take the upper bearing housing out of the casing?, it's nicely stuck in and again I don't want to use force to press it out. If I must, without a press what is the best method?.
 

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Oh dear, this is not going well at all now. :frown2:

I decided to replace the bottom oil seal and bought one of the seals from a well known supplier. I wrongly assumed that the seal in the bottom of my casing was a similar type but just with an aluminium housing as oppose to the black 'nylon ?' of the replacement.

I have now gone and well and truly fubared the old seal trying to remove it and come to the conclusion its a totally different design at the bottom.

Did they change the design at some point?, I suspect I'm going to have to machine out a rebate into the casing to fit the replacement seal.
 

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Not wanting to be too critical, but I think you should consider...

Either: a) Start posting some images so people can understand what you are doing wrong, or:

b) Give the steering box to someone that knows what they are doing.

Your posts are starting to show that this job is a little beyond your capabilities. This is a safety critical part of the car! All the information you need is here... you just need to read the thread and find it. People are loosing interest in your posts.
 

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Not wanting to be too critical, but I think you should consider...

Either: a) Start posting some images so people can understand what you are doing wrong, or:

b) Give the steering box to someone that knows what they are doing.

Your posts are starting to show that this job is a little beyond your capabilities. This is a safety critical part of the car! All the information you need is here... you just need to read the thread and find it. People are loosing interest in your posts.
OK fair point, the business with the O-ring and seal was frankly just stupid, I should have read the thread properly its blindingly obvious mine is the earlier design. But I'm in too deep now so need to continue. Machining out the housing for the later seal shouldn't be a big deal, I've got access to a decent jobbing engineer who will do that for me.

Still can't work out how to dismantle the column though, lots of images on this and the other thread, but its difficult to figure out how to actually extract the bushings without damaging it.

Photo shows where it currently sits after 'gently' knocking out from the bottom as suggested. I'm reluctant to go further without more information on this one.
 

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Cool. a picture tells a thousand words... I have never had an issue with getting this sleeve off. Once the woodruff key is off this sleeve should slide off without issues.

I see two things wrong: The sleeve above the spring is distorted. This is causing it to clamp onto the shaft (hence the difficulty getting it off). You will need to destroy it and find one that is not damaged. Second: There is something (like a felt seal) to the right of the spring. This should not be there... And could be the root of the issues.

Time for delicate use of a grinder.
 

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Ok, after a short pause in proceedings whilst I had the bottom of the housing machined to take the later seal I've finally completed the rebuild.
The steering column came apart ok in the end, just a gentle tap with a punch took the sleeve off and the rest came apart ok.

The rebuild and adjustment seemed to go ok following the helpfull guide at the start of the thread (thanks). I can't detect any play, for and aft in the column and nothing in the wheel either. No binding and it feels very smooth with the wheel attached. Without the wheel and turning the shaft by hand I can feel a slight 'roughness' difficult to describe but it just feels a bit odd. Perhaps I'm asking too much.

I have no oil in it yet, just grease. I can't decide whether I should go for normal oil or Penrite grease, which is what it had in previously.

Can't put either in just yet either, because I've buggered up the rubber filler bung, it was left in some white spirit and seems to have partly melted. I've not seen these advertised anywhere, is anything available?.
 

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Just finished rebuilding and re-installing my Burman box this afternoon. Was not as bad a job as I thought it would be. THANKS for this fantastic write-up, it saved my bacon.

One observation: The end plate has a metal tube brazed to it, which extends through the steering box and up into the column, to provide a conduit for the steering earth wire. It is IMPORTANT that this tube is perpendicular to the end plate. Mine had a bit of a curve to it (who knows why), and as a result, after getting the box back together, it felt like a box of rocks. The tube was dragging on the inside of the column shaft, in a big way. Had to strip it all down and start over again, but this time, I straightened the tube carefully until it was nice and perpendicular to the end plate. This time, when reassembled, it felt smooth as a tomcat p*ssing on velvet. I was over the moon !

A further observation - there is a cast aluminium structure within the ****pit into which the steering column is suspended (it also provides the mounting for the ignition switch and steering lock.) Make sure this assembly is slid onto the steering column, BEFORE you attach the box to the inner wing. I loosely assembled everything, then went back and nipped up all the mounting bolts.

Anybody in the UK needing ball bearings, contact Simply Bearings. Got them overnight, and for beer money.
 

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A work of art

After reading everything in this thread, I reached out to Jim Steck. I received no reply to my inquiry. I decided to bite the bullet and purchase the Alfaholics billet box. The folks at Alfaholics were prompt in their replies to my email and quick to ship.

This is a thing of beauty and I will feel safe knowing my car has a sound piece of equipment.

I saw mention of the idler. I put a zerk fitting on mine. I will periodically add grease to make sure it stays well lubricated.
 

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Alignment procedure

Hey all

Many years after using this useful thread to rebuild my Burman I'm ready to attache the pitman drop arm and do a preliminary alignment. I seem to remember a good writeup on this but can't put my mouse on it now. Anyone have a link?
 

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Hi,
I have disassembled another one of my Burman Boxes and have found that it did not have shims under the oval cover?? The other difference is that there appears to be a seal instead of the "O" ring at the bottom of the box. there was alco a metal spacer under the square cover which has the wire for the horn. When I put the steering column's next to each other the one with the seal is approx. 20mm longer. I am sure all the boxes I have are from Supers, so can any one shed some light on this anomaly?
Jim
 

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I have been trying to get some bronze bushes for the steering box with little luck. However I'm not sure if this has bee discussed here but I have got onto this product called Vesconite, a plastic used in industry for the same applications ve have. I am going to the company to discuss this further. It looks at this stage, this could be an answer to the problem.
The last box I have dissembled had a plastic collar on the steering shaft so I'll ask about this as well.
Jim
 

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Does anyone have a source for Woodruf keys for the steering wheel. I have 4 box's and only one key. Thanks.

Jim
 

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Does anyone have a source for Woodruf keys for the steering wheel. I have 4 box's and only one key. Thanks.

Jim
You may cut a washer in halfs of the proper size and use that. Unless you find a new one.
 

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You may cut a washer in halfs of the proper size and use that. Unless you find a new one.
Thanks Wille R, I am wondering if there is a source for new ones. I can get some but the profile is different. Any one else had any luck??

Jim
 

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I was just about to write a question about shimming under the "football" but this thread answered it. Thank you.
I replaced the pictured box in a 72 Berlina last year, and the new (used) box has too much free play, so I'll take some shims out, see if that improves it. PS, this is a u-joint box.

Andrew
 

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I'd like to follow. I don't think removing any shims will help. The slop is from the ball bearings rolling in the cage and if the balls or race they ride in is worn no amount of pressing down will improve that. There could also be slop in the football on top but again shimming won't take up any excess. That's just my theory and I'd be happy to be proven wrong hence the follow. I truly hope it does improve the workings.
 
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