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I doubt it but it's worth a try. The slop can come from just about anywhere in the system. The oval is shimed to keep the dome from being to tight and is pushed against the box of bearings that turns the shaft with the spring. Taking a shim out does nothing to make up for the wear on the bearings, the arm on the shaft, or the dome sitting in the horizontal arm of the shaft. Then you have the bearings on each end of the worm gear that wear. If you have excessive linear play in the worm gear removing a shim on either end of the worm gear might keep that from moving forward or backwards and get rid of the slop. Then you have the bushing at the bottom that wears and allows the bottom end of the shaft be sloppy. Generally taking a shim off the oval on top just makes it bind and be harder to turn but really doesn't take out any play. I wish it was that simple. Is there any oil in the box?
 

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What about having new castings made.....instead of a billet machining? Anyone out there interested in pursuing this?
....So 1750GT: given that billet replacements are available, would there still be some advantage in having castings made instead? Certainly in large enough quantities, castings could be produced for < $1,097 Canadian - but, the set-up cost would be significant, so a large run would be required to produce a unit cost competitive with the Alfaholics billet solution.
...where there's a will...there is now a way!

Afra has new (remanufactured) Burman boxes (casing only) for 460 Euro ($605 USD @ 1.31 today) + shipping: Afra s.a.s. - Alfa Romeo Giulia Berlina Vintage spare parts
If anyone has purchased one of these....I think I speak for more than myself here, but it would be nice to know how much thicker they're made the bosses around the bolt holes, the walls and the kind of seal used on the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Personally I think $600 + is ridiculous. I think a box should cost under $200 to cast in low quantities and another $50 for CNC. I think a $350 price is achievable in this economy. Plenty of under capacity foundries could handle this. There's not much tooling expensive in sand casting. It's one of those projects I've got on my list after I get a bunch others cleared off but sooner or later it's got to happen...
 

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Personally I think $600 + is ridiculous. I think a box should cost under $200 to cast in low quantities and another $50 for CNC. I think a $350 price is achievable in this economy. Plenty of under capacity foundries could handle this. There's not much tooling expensive in sand casting. It's one of those projects I've got on my list after I get a bunch others cleared off but sooner or later it's got to happen...
Rich if this is the case...I may be wrong....but I'd be amazed. To me it looks like you'd need more than one set-up to machine the main bore, the four mounting holes and then facing off the three surfaces for the plates. $350 sounds great....but the $600 didn't seem unreasonable considering the uncertain market potential for these.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
A man dream can't he? ;)

True, you would certainly have multiple set ups but honestly with all the capacity around my area I think I can find machine time cheap. The actual cutting time would be minimal.

My feeling is that sooner or later this will need to be addressed or we'll all only have full scale display models instead of drivers...
 

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Question

Im just following this thread and trying to suss out the play in the steering on my 1974 GTV. It seems the early cars had a shaft running from the steering box to the steering wheel? My GTV has a steering box with a universal joint connecting to a steering column then the steering wheel. I seem to have play in the bushing directly behind the steering wheel, though after removing that bushing, pictured below, there seems to be alot of flop in the shaft as it exits the lower end of the steering column. Any ideas?
 

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The pitting that occurs on the inner race of the steering shaft end bearing is due to false brinelling. Small movements of the balls back and forth in the one position, like when driving in a straight line squeezes all of the lubricant out from between the balls and the races until it's metal on metal. Add to this vibration from the road surface and viola! False brinel damage! Its not a design flaw, alfas were designed for the turns, not the straights
 

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Discussion Starter #208
The pitting that occurs on the inner race of the steering shaft end bearing is due to false brinelling. Small movements of the balls back and forth in the one position, like when driving in a straight line squeezes all of the lubricant out from between the balls and the races until it's metal on metal. Add to this vibration from the road surface and viola! False brinel damage! Its not a design flaw, alfas were designed for the turns, not the straights
Excellent explanation, thanks!
 

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If I ever found a NOS set of innards for my Burman box, the first thing I would do is have them coated with Dicronite, for the very reasons that 'Mechanic' talks about.
 

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gprocket's instructions on a Burman Box rebuild

I would just like to extent my huge thanks to Rich for his superb instructions on how to do this rebuild. I followed them to the letter. Put some piccies up on my car rebuild thread.

An excellent example of the value of this Bulletin Board.

Chris
 

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The big difference between the ZF and burman steeringbox

ZF : conical worm and roller minimum play in the "straight" position and the more play in outer L&R position ( these ZF have same working as the old 1900 2000 and 2600 boxes

Burman : straight worm and roller with rolling bearings same play in straight and outer L&R position

the burman gives better handling in fast cornering ! but the ZF is stronger

rgds Franco
 

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Burman Gasket PDF plus crack repair

My vehicle is a 1972 Berlina RHD

I have completed an overhaul as per these instructions and it worked for me. My contribution is a PDF of the gaskets needed for a RHD car.

I fitted a new lower seal and balls. I had a machine shop fit a new bush, plus a home built steel exoskeleton to render it safe.

Couple of observations.

The bolts were 5/16 UNC not M8 - not suprising in a British sub-assembly.

My box was cracked. For the record, the car has never had wide tyres or accident damage. It has covered some miles (maybe 1000) on gravel roads - in my opinion the shaking on a gravel road that is transmitted to the steering column could be sufficient to crack the box. It is poorly designed to resist the leverage from the column.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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Gaskets and O-Rings still available?

Yeah they turned out nicely. I've received a few requests already for these so I decided to offer a complete gasket set including a new "O" ring as shown below. Total cost will be $20.00 + shipping.
Hi,

any chance you have more burman rebuild kits (gaskets/o-rings)? I know its been a while but never hurts to ask. Just pulled mine and getting ready to re-build.
Thanks,
Buff
 

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Gaskets not required

Great that people have made the effort to make gaskets and post PDFs of the gaskets etc...

But with modern sealing methods, this is no longer necessary. I use Loctite 515. I dry assemble the box to determine the right shims, then final assemble smearing 515 on every sealing surface and each side of the shims. Use Penrite steering box lube (Australian product) or similar. It is just pour-able and should be added just prior to bolting the top plate on.

Gaskets will compress. OK when the box was designed back in what...1960!? Sometime technology catches up and passes old fashioned practices.
 
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