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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There are many good threads on how to re-assemble a Burman box, but none that I found on how to disassemble one out of the car and on a bench. So thought I would write it up in case of any use to anyone. Really, it is a pretty straightforward teardown, which is perhaps why there isn't much on the BB about it.

For those looking to re-assemble the Burman box after this, here are a couple of good reference threads I came across:

https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-steering-brakes-wheels-tires/152689-burman-box-rebuild.html

https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/4310-replacing-burman-shaft-type-steering-box-seal-situ.html

With that, let's get to teardown...

Step 1: Remove the steering drop arm (Pitman arm)

By many accounts this can be a very difficult task. I was prepared to use a bearing separator and a press to get it off, but I guess I won the lottery on this one…mine just pulled off by hand after removing the cotter pin and castellated nut. Something that is confusing in the manuals I was looking at for this procedure was that they say to “mark the arm relative to the shaft”. That may be needed in early Burman boxes, but this is coming off a ’74 already had the marks below, so no need to create my own.

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Step 2: Remove the top cover

Remove the 4 13mm bolts up top.

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I put the box in a vise (protected to not scar the aluminum box) to get the bolts loose.

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When you’re loosening the bolts on the top cover it might start to pop up like it is spring loaded. It is, but nothing will jump out once you fully loosen the all the bolts.

Here’s what it looks like with the top cover removed:

IMG_5275sm.JPG

Next I removed the smaller cover from the top cover since I want to clean and paint it. Note all the shims there. They may stick to the top cover itself, so make sure you collect them all. It is possible not all of them will need to go back in upon reassembly…just depends on how things measure out when you’re done.

IMG_5292sm.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 3: Remove the side cover and bearings

Again, 13mm bolts. Pull the wire all the through to get it out of the way.

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Note the shim.

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Pull out the thick washer, bearing race and the 10 loose ball bearings.

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Discussion Starter #3
Ran out of picture room in previous post...here are the bearings coming out:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Step 4: Remove the “other” side cover, worm gear, bearings and everything else in the box

More 13 mm bolts.

IMG_5286sm.JPG

Once cover is removed you can remove the worm gear by turning it counter-clockwise. There are 13 loose ball bearings that come with it, so keep track of those as you remove the gear.

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Next comes the main steering shaft and 31 more loose ball bearings (assuming I counted correctly). You can just pull this out at this point. Many of the ball bearings will have fallen into the box itself, so just be diligent as you remove everything.

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At the top of the steering shaft is a spring, so just pull that out and keep it someplace safe.

IMG_5291sm.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And the box is now empty. Check for cracks in the box, especially around the bolting points.

All done for now!

IMG_5293sm.JPG
 

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Beautiful presentation... so let's go a step farther and assume the body is cracked ( a friend of mine has a 1750 GT that way) ,.. is it possible to weld it up or seal the crack with 21st century miracle sealants.. My thoughts are if you retain the old body, you can reassemble with the same shim order as before and avoid that part of reassembly if you buy a new or reman body. It is amazing what technology in the aerospace and marine businesses has come up with in just the last decade. Keep it coming on the reassembly. This should be a sticky on it's own.
 
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