[ShadeTree]

Modifying an engine stand made for American engines is the normal route most of us take when getting our engines to a comfortable working height. Even if you purchase a used stand or one from Harbor Freight, it can get expensive when you include the cost of modifications. And then what do you do with it when it's not in use?

Burnell Curtis, a local Alfista, suggested I use his method and save myself some money. It sounded good to me so I thought I'd try it and pass it on.

Go to your local hardware store (Lowe's in my case) and purchase (2) 1" x 12" long threaded pipe nipples and (2) 1" threaded floor flanges. Total cost: $26.84


Drill out two adjoining holes to 1/2" and add a new 3/8" hole opposite the others to the correct dimensions of the engine mount studs. What you can't see is that I had to file down a small amount of the base of the flange near the new hole to provide clearance for the nut to turn.


Screw in the nipples and this is what you'll have.


Attach a flanged nipple to each engine mount and place it between two sturdy sawhorses that are probably lying around your garage anyway. You can rotate the engine around to whatever position you wish but you'll need to use a 2x4 to keep to engine in place.


The best feature of this stand is that, when not is use, it can be stored on a shelf, completely out of the way.

 

[Alfajay]

Well, I can't argue with the price. Still, I might wear my steel-toed shoes while working on the engine!

For static storage, something like your setup works great. But, once you start applying torque to the headstuds, crankshaft caps, etc, you could twist the engine suddenly, and have the pipes fall off the sawhorses.

You could add some safety by investing another couple bucks in some "U" shaped pipe hangers, and using them to secure the pipes to the 2x4's. Then secure the 2x4's to the sawhorses using C clamps, tiewraps, or ???

 

[ShadeTree]

For static storage, something like your setup works great. But, once you start applying torque to the headstuds, crankshaft caps, etc, you could twist the engine suddenly, and have the pipes fall off the sawhorses.

You could add some safety by investing another couple bucks in some "U" shaped pipe hangers, and using them to secure the pipes to the 2x4's. Then secure the 2x4's to the sawhorses using C clamps, tiewraps, or ???

I understand your concerns and they are well taken. Though, removing the head nuts while your engine is on wheels isn't much fun either.

At this point, it's an experiment on my part and I just want to see how comfortable I am with it. I'm sure I'll secure the pipe and the 2x4 bracing in some fashion when I get started. I have several options that are already here in my shop so there will be no extra cost.